Tried starting my 63 Avanti last month and got a couple of clicks and turns but no turnover. Figured battery was shot eventhough it is relatively new. Went back to try again the next day and it started right up. Let it sit again for a week and same issue. Went back 24 hours later and started right up again. I have the electronic ignition and never had any problems with it. Took it out today and it started right up, so I drove a few miles to the market, but when I tried to start upon my return it was the same issue. Luckily someone gave me a jump and I drove to my mechanic. Tested battery and alternator and both are good. Ground is connected securely as well. What could cause this fickleness?
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The wiring for the auto trans neutral safety switch goes through the floor inside the console. It's in the starter solenoid control circuit, even on Avanti's with stick trans. On these it's looped with a simple plug. That's a bad neighborhood for things electric. There's heat oil and dirt. If your car is a stick, I suggest looping the wire inside the console, rather than under the floor. If it's an automatic, check the switch and clean the connections. I think you can get to everything from inside the car.
Mike M. -
If the Solenoid is clicking I would think the circuit from the Ignition switch to the Solenoid is OK, but either the Battery terminals are damp, wet, and or loose or the Solenoid is intermittent.
Start by removing the Cables cleaning and tightening them. Coat the Terminals and Batt. Posts with dielectric grease.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967Comment
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I have an R-2 with the Powershift AT. 2 summers ago I had a similar situation it turned out to be the neutral safety switch.Stan Gundry
www.AvantiPublishing.comComment
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also try the solenoid, the magnetic circuit may be working but the contacts may be fried. Remember, it has to handle several hundred amps!Originally posted by stan.gundry View PostComment
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Thank you for the responses. I'm leaning towards neutral safety switch as well.Comment
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I have a 1963 Avanti that will crank but will not always start. After watching the amp and fuel gauge while the engine is turning over I noticed they were not working. My problem ended up being an ignition switch. I could wiggle the key and cylinder and make the gauges come back to life and the engine would fire up immediately. Hope this is of some help.Comment
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If its the neutral safety switch, it will not click or anything, as if the battery were disconnected. Sounds more like the relay or the starter itself.Comment
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Avanti will not start.
Let me relate what I did a few weeks ago when my Ford Bronc would not start one morning after having no previous trouble.
I could hear the starter solenoid clicking. Ford has 2 one on the inner fender and one on the starter.
I turned on the head lights. They staid bright If they had dimmed the problem then would be either a bad battery or a bad starter or possibly a bad calbe
Checked battery for voltage. 12 + volts before and while trying to start the car.
Checked for voltage on the output side of the solenoid while trying to start. 12 volts +
Jumper-ed out the solenoid from the + battery post to the starter side of the solenoid. Still no go.
Took a BFH to the starter while a helper tried to start the car. Still no start.
Nothing left to do remove the starter. The starter had been replaced last fall due to similar problems. Only that time the BFH worked. Not bad the original starter lasted 150000 miles and the rebuilt one lasted 6 months and about 3000 miles.
Now How is an Avanti different. it only has one solenoid and a Bendix drive
On the Avanti's starter solenoid are 2 small terminals The solenoid is located below the voltage regulator and also under the master cylinder. It is hard to see.
There is usually only a wire on one of the terminals. Remove it and with the key off place a jumper wire on the terminal you removed the wire from.
Touch the other end of the wire to the positive battery terminal. The solenoid should click and if the large wires, solenoid and the starter are good the engine should turn over.
If the engine turns over the trouble is someplace between the ignition switch and the wire you removed from the small terminal The neutral safety switch is in that circuit.
If the solenoid clicks and the engine still does not turn over.
Remove the positive battery cable. Take the two large cables off of the starter solenoid and join both together under one of the nuts. Then touch the removed battery cable to the positive post. If the cables are good the engine should turn over. If not the starter is bad.
You could also try a BFH in case the brushes and not making contact with the starter's armature. If it works the starter still should be removed.Comment
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Avanti will not start.
Let me relate what I did a few weeks ago when my Ford Bronc would not start one morning after having no previous trouble.
I could hear the starter solenoid clicking. Ford has 2 one on the inner fender and one on the starter.
I turned on the head lights. They staid bright If they had dimmed the problem then would be either a bad battery or a bad starter or possibly a bad calbe
Checked battery for voltage. 12 + volts before and while trying to start the car.
Checked for voltage on the output side of the solenoid while trying to start. 12 volts +
Jumper-ed out the solenoid from the + battery post to the starter side of the solenoid. Still no go.
Took a BFH to the starter while a helper tried to start the car. Still no start.
Nothing left to do remove the starter. The starter had been replaced last fall due to similar problems. Only that time the BFH worked. Not bad the original starter lasted 150000 miles and the rebuilt one lasted 6 months and about 3000 miles.
Now How is an Avanti different. it only has one solenoid and a Bendix drive
On the Avanti's starter solenoid are 2 small terminals The solenoid is located below the voltage regulator and also under the master cylinder. It is hard to see.
There is usually only a wire on one of the terminals. Remove it and with the key off place a jumper wire on the terminal you removed the wire from.
Touch the other end of the wire to the positive battery terminal. The solenoid should click and if the large wires, solenoid and the starter are good the engine should turn over.
If the engine turns over the trouble is someplace between the ignition switch and the wire you removed from the small terminal The neutral safety switch is in that circuit.
If the solenoid clicks and the engine still does not turn over.
Remove the positive battery cable. Take the two large cables off of the starter solenoid and join both together under one of the nuts. Then touch the removed battery cable to the positive post. If the cables are good the engine should turn over. If not the starter is bad.
You could also try a BFH in case the brushes and not making contact with the starter's armature. If it works the starter still should be removed.
I forgot on later Avantis both small terminals are used. The terminal closest to the inner fender is the one that the jumper wire goes to As you are looking down at the solenoid it is the terminal on the right
RonComment
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rstrasser that is a well written article on how to troubleshoot the starter system. I would only add that one must have a known good battery, and sometimes modern batteries really fooled me: good upon morning startup; dead on restart after a 20 mile trip, and then good again next day. In those cases I have swapped batteries with another Stude and drove the car a week or so. If problem disappears, buy a new battery.
Thanks again for the excellent article.Comment
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I'm leaning towards the solenoid as well.Originally posted by autoradiotech View Post
Simple test, but you need the hood opened and someone with a hammer or object to tap the solenoid while key is in start position.
If the internal contacts are burnt, worn, or the internal plunger is gunked up, a light tap of the solenoid, while energized, will make a better connection. If that works, replace the solenoid..
Start with the cheap parts..
I doubt its the neutral switch as the original post said, "clicking was heard."Last edited by SScopelli; 04-15-2014, 04:54 PM.Comment
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I am not so sure I agree that it is not the neutral switch because "clicking was heard." If the flow of juice to the solenoid was restricted by corroded connections at the neutral switch, or by the either one of the two wires soldered to the two terminals of the neutral switch hanging on by only 2 or 3 strands of wire, couldn't that lead to a clicking solenoid? Remember, that neutral switch is exposed to the elements on the underside of the car and also that every time you move the shifter, the wires are subject to movement, especially if the are not tied or taped down, and in that case the place where the movement will be focused is where the wires are stripped of the plastic insulation and soldered to the terminals. I do not want to be dogmatic on this, but it is something to consider. BTW, it is possible to repair/refresh those switches. I have successfully done it. I have written it up for any future revision I might do of my book. But if you want what I have written up, email me and I will send it to you.Stan Gundry
www.AvantiPublishing.comComment
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I agree it could be the neutral safety switch,along with the battery, the starter, the solenoid or the wiring going between the various components. Without a systematic approach to the problem you will be taking apart parts of the car and or throwing money at the problem. And possibly create additional problems along the way. In the case of our Studebakers the cars are old and many of the parts are fragile. I will test first.
RonComment
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