Body / Glass: 62 Hawk Trunk Grill

[Studebaker1962]

Thanks
Jim

[JEWELL]

Jim, If you have not already done so go the Studebaker Vendors Website on the net,a good place to start, and don't worry, one of our members will have what you are looking for. Also don't forget Studebaker International for all other parts.

Mark

[3rdGenStude]

I've wondered about this myself, since most of my black paint in the squares is worn off.

Would this work?: Prep the aluminum surface and mask the angled edges. Spray the entire flat waffle surface black. Wet sand with a block to strip the raised waffle edges back to silver. Then clear coat the whole thing. The same basic process could be used for redoing the indented lettering on the '62 grill.

Anybody ever tried this or similar?

Paul

[Bud]

I saved the overlay on my 62 Hawk by cleaning it up as well as I could and then spraying black paint over the complete waffle area and sanding with fine wet or dry sand paper after the paint had dried for a few days. I also sprayed it with clear acrylic to make everything look better. This was 20 or more years ago and it still looks good. Bud

[StudeRich]

By scuffing the high spots you WILL remove the Anodize, but possibly the Clear Coat MAY take it's place to protect the Aluminum from corrosion.

[Studebaker1962]

I was thinking this very idea. The aluminum is soft so must use a very very fine grit. Maybe 1000+ to just expose the grid and then a clear coat. Just fishing around for ideas and you have confirmed. I am trying not make any misteps. Some have no second chance.

Thanks,
Jim

[52 Ragtop]

Spray it with black, let dry, then use a block with a clean rag, "dampened" with lacquer thinner, slowly wipe off the excess. change the rag as it gets dirty. Then one final wipe down with a clean rag (on the block) and it will look like new.

Jim

[RadioRoy]

I agree on using lacquer thinner or Acetone. I would NOT sand it with anything.

[Mikado282]

For some reason a lot of people think sandpaper is the thing to use when restoring cars, guns, coins or anything old. I shudder at the millions of dollars in value that has been sandpapered off over the years.

[Studebaker1962]

As I said I don't want to make a mistep, and definitely on a piece of body work I can't find.

How do you keep the lacquer thinner or acetone from lifting the black paint in the squares. When stated "damp" You must be one step above dry? Do you still use a clear coat with this method?

Thanks!!

[Bud]

The anodizing on my overlay was mostly gone when I did the refinish. I don't remember what grit paper I used when I sanded off the overspray, but the clear coat has held up very well over the years. Bud

[Studebaker1962]

Update on the rear grill.

Soft brushed and degreased the rear grill then taped and tarped to spray 2 coats of black semi-gloss. I was afraid to damage or kink the grill by removing it so I sprayed it in place on a non-windy day with a blanket of tarps on the car.

Thanks for good advice on this post. I have gone thru ~1000 Q-Tips and alot of lacquer thinner to clean the ribs. It's not an exact rectangle but 97 rows by 14 columns = 1,358 squares

My car will never be a show quality car but from 5 feet it looks pretty good.

Thanks again for the don't sand advice.

Jim

[Rerun]

Does anyone know how these parts were painted from the factory? There was probably a masking process involved. This should be apparent on an NOS piece, if anyone has one. If someone has access to a CNC punch, laser or waterjet, perhaps a mask could be created. I would imagine that there are quite a few of these parts out there that would need stripped and painted.

[KCoupeNewbie]

A vinyl sign shop might be able to produce an adhesive backed mask?
Let the paint dry, then remove the vinyl with hot air assist from hair dryer or hot air gun.