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  • Body / Glass: 57 hawk roof

    Getting back to mjy roof problem. Can anyone tell me if a post roof work on a hardtop??
    I think what I can do is replace a section in about a foot in and the length of the roof.
    Lefgt side has one spot but is there so I think I can just fix right side but would make it easier to replace section. If I can fab a post on it I will get the one on E-Bay in Minn. which
    is a little drive but not bad I just want to make sure before I waste everyones time.
    Roof panel at Stude International fits both but it is just the skin and I would have to fabricate underneath where the flippers screw on .

  • #2
    Hard enough to replace a roof and get every thing right,if you had the correct roof. I would think the edges where the doors seal against the roof would be totally different. And,it would be a whole lot easier to replace the whole roof rather than a section like you're thinking. I think you'd better find the right roof,or find a body shell.[45 years in auto body trade-just to let you know I speak with some experience]
    Oglesby,Il.

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    • #3
      I really can not think of anything that would be different from Coupe to Hardtop, but releasing (drilling out) the spot welds at the drip rail of the entire roof panel is still the best way to change it out.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

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      • #4
        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        I really can not think of anything that would be different from Coupe to Hardtop, but releasing (drilling out) the spot welds at the drip rail of the entire roof panel is still the best way to change it out.
        He has another thread going with pics included.... He needs the entire roof,not just the outer skin.
        Oglesby,Il.

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        • #5
          I've done a few of these not on a hawk but job is the same. Find the same model roof that you have or you will make a nice job into one that is one big pain. Have your new roof cut off and set up next to your job before you take the saw to your car. Best is to have all the seats and interrior out of your car. Next remove all the glass, door glass and rear side glass can be rolled down and covered.Take exact measurements of your front and rear window opening as these are rubber set on these cars and you have very little room for error. The glue ins are a little more forgiving and if your off a hair you can still cheat the glass in. Now you have to deside where you can cut thourgh the posts and be the easiest to finish off your welding when done. A little time spent here will save hours later. Now the trick is to cut both the top off your car and the donor roof at the same spot and at the same angle so when the two go back together your not doing a ton of grinding or patch work for them to fit perfectly together. Also both your A pillar and your C pillar should be sleeved so you have a good strong weld point. Once all your opening are right on and the new roof is on the car it's just a matter of welding everything up and filling your welds. sometimes it's a two to four man job to lift and set the new top.

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          • #6
            Just a thought on a whole roof.. Have you checked with Tom Karkiewicz in South Bend? I know he has several roofs sitting in his yard.
            Last edited by mbstude; 01-17-2014, 04:32 PM.

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the info. Its been a long time since I did one. The ones I have done all had the spot welds on the sail panel or C-Pillar which was east to match up. Is that the same with the hawks?? the A-Pillar is a tricky one your correct. I have nothing but time a patience on my side but still tricky. Matthew I have not checked or even know Tom in South Bend so if anyone can give me some more info on him that would be great. Decision to try to splice section is long gone I'm going to put a complete roof on. I need more than a skin though. Thanks for all the help.

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              • #8
                In addition to the above whatever you do weld in some cross braces. Use 1 1/2 " angle iron from the A pillar to the C pillar in the form of an X. Otherwise the body cab will sag resulting in more fun then you can stand.
                ed ellis

                sigpic

                the "SUPER COUPE"

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                • #9
                  ED although your idea is good and sure cant hurt are you sure its needed? As long as the rockers and frame and in good shape they should hold the body up with out the roof. I've done roof replaces on ford escourts, dodge darts, chev chevelle's, chev nova's, chev pickups, ford pickups just to name a few and never braced the door opening and never had one drop on me.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
                    ED although your idea is good and sure cant hurt are you sure its needed? As long as the rockers and frame and in good shape they should hold the body up with out the roof. I've done roof replaces on ford escourts, dodge darts, chev chevelle's, chev nova's, chev pickups, ford pickups just to name a few and never braced the door opening and never had one drop on me.

                    One Sunday years ago I was helping a buddy replace the damaged roof on his car (53 K) at the body shop where he worked. As soon as the roof was cut away we couldn't open the doors as the body had sagged so much. At the time the vehicle was only about 12 years old and wasn't a rust bucket by any means.

                    The old guy that owned the place came in and looked at what we had done and after a few choice expletives explained what had happened. My pal and his boss spent a HUGE amount of effort and time to get the body to the point where the new top obtained from scrap yard could be welded back in place.

                    A year or two later the same guy with a 54 K body this time decided he was going to chop the top of his new ride a few inches. Since i was interested in anything Studebaker i met him early one weekend morning to do the deed. This time the shop owner came in as we were getting ready to have at it and he utilized the X bracing system and showed us young punks how it should be done.

                    As an aside, I m 6'5" and i always found the head room in the CKs to my liking so I never thought much of chopping the top on a CK. more to the point I think changing ANY of the lines of Bob Bourke's masterpiece is sacrilege.
                    ed ellis

                    sigpic

                    the "SUPER COUPE"

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                    • #11
                      I have done hardtop chevys before and found out that the X-factor is a more sofer way to go about it with or without the door.
                      I have not looked at the A-Pillar yet which is a determining factor in the X- Factor. I would say be safe than sorry. I have the
                      X-Factor braces left over from previous jubs useing square stock and little tie rods like from a lawn mower so they are adjustable from th dooe hinge mounts to the latch assembly and etc. the problem I will have is to find a roof thats correct for the situation. I might be getting into this one a little to much and may end up parting it out. Wrong 57 doors and fenders etc will need replaced to make it correct although the engine is correct number and supercharger is in great shape.

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                      • #12
                        With a severely damaged roof, it's always better to just replace the outer 'skin' and straighten the inner construction....if that is at all possible.

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