Engine: Oil spill / spray problems

[Polle]

hi everyone!

I'm having oil spill trouble with my 259 commander v8 which I have built into my 55 e series truck. Hopefully you guys can help me out with!? Here's what's going on...

Initially, mainly at higher RPM's, I had two occasions of oil spill / spray coming from oil being pushed up into the oil filler tube (front), covered by the breather. I would expect the air / oil flow to go into the breather and back into the tube but for some reason it spills out of the breather. The fan than sprays it througout the engine bay, causing a big mess.

I tried to fix this by installing a pcv taking the gasses from the rear end of the block (firewall side, where the ventilation tube used to be)back into the intake. With that I removed the breather on the oil filler tube (front of engine) and replaced it with and oil filler cap (closed, no breather). From what I understand, this is a 'closed system'?

However, it now spills oil through the valve cover gasket on the left, spilling onto the header and the exhaust. Last night, I lost almost all oil pressure and oil, so it really spills a lot! I have no breathers on the valve covers. Will that solve the problem or cause oil spill through those?

I'm also reading about installing a crank case kit and oil pan breather? Will this be the solution to my problem?

I hope you guys understand or maybe even recognise what's wrong. All your help and advise is highly appreciated.
Thank you, greetz from the Netherlands, Europe!
Polle

[Dan Timberlake]

Was the 259 a running engine before it was rebuilt? If so, Did it have oil problems then?

I'd do a compression test and a leakdown test. I think you may have very leaky or maybe even some broken rings or some other path for excessive "blowby" combustion getting into the crankcase.

This is somewhat confirmed by your experience of significant oil leaks after blocking off the valve cover breather/vent. All that blowby has to go somewhere, or it will build up big pressure in the crankcase which will try to force its way out (along with oil) at whatever weak spots it can find.

A real crankcase ventilation system is not truly closed, and is much more than a simple pressure relief system. Fresh air comes in from either a crudely filtered valve cover breather or from the air cleaner. Something "sucks" on a remote section of the crankcase to pull fresh air thru the crankcase. "Something" in the olden days was the road draft tube, or since at least the 50s a controlled orifice/valve attached to the intake vacuum.

Unfortunately Sometimes a PCV system that draws from the air cleaner is called "closed".

http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14264/img/14264_152_3.jpg

[5brown1]

I believe I read that the cause is probably blow-by caused by the rings not being worn in yet.

[jackb]

was the engine "rebuilt"...? unclear some

[Mike Van Veghten]

New or old, sounds like "blowby". Normally caused by piston rings that aren't seating properly. Either from being wornout or by an improper/incomplete breakin.

What's a "crankcase kit" ? I know what a pan breather is, and if you don't install that correctly, you'll have lots of oil problems there too. And even if you do all this, you haven't "fixed" the problem...only masked or hid the problem.

Mike

[Dick Steinkamp]

I tried to fix this by installing a pcv taking the gasses from the rear end of the block (firewall side, where the ventilation tube used to be)back into the intake. With that I removed the breather on the oil filler tube (front of engine) and replaced it with and oil filler cap (closed, no breather). From what I understand, this is a 'closed system'?

With a Positive Crankcase Ventilation system, you still need a way for fresh air to get into the system. It is called a "closed system" only because engine gases are not released to the atmosphere like with a road tube system.

You should put the breather/cap back on the oil fill tube so that fresh air can enter the system as engine vacuum draws out crankcase gases through the PCV valve and into the intake manifold.



In the above diagram, the PCV valve to intake manifold connection is at a valve cover, but doing it off the valley cover like you have done is fine and the way Studebaker did it. Also, the diagram picks up the fresh air from the air cleaner and introduces it through the other valve cover, but picking it up through the filter in the oil filler breather is perfectly acceptable.

Also, make sure your PCV valve is installed in the proper direction.

[Polle]

thanks so much for all the quick responses and advise. The engine was not rebuilt. I just changed the original line 6 engine and manual tranny for the v8 commander with auto tranny. I was also thinking about the piston rings. I have done a compression test allready and found one of the cilinders (nr.7) to have lower pressure. I will have to do another compression test with some added oil (is that what you call a leak down test?) to determine it's the rings or the valves. As I understand, this excessive blow-by can be caused by fawlty piston rings!? Meanwhile, I shall re-install the breather on the oild filler tube to allow the engine to breathe again from that side! I feel another winter project coming on (rebuilding the engine).... thanks so much everyone, you are a great help and I'm learning as I go!!!

[Son O Lark]

Are your V8 heads draining oil properly? You will have to pull the valve covers to check.

[over50]

At minimum, verify that the PCV valve is installed to allow the carb/intake manifold to suck gasses through it. Put the breather on the oil filler so there is an air inlet.

[RadioRoy]

If you put in a V-8 automatic where a six stick originally lived, the rear axle ratio is probably way too great numerically. The engine might be screaming at road speeds. Excessive engine RPM will make blow by much worse.

Do you know the rear axle ratio of the truck?

Did the original engine have an overdrive?

[Polle]

If you put in a V-8 automatic where a six stick originally lived, the rear axle ratio is probably way too great numerically. The engine might be screaming at road speeds. Excessive engine RPM will make blow by much worse.

Do you know the rear axle ratio of the truck?

Did the original engine have an overdrive?

You are right, the old one had an overdrive. This one doesn't. So You're right about about the high rpm's, especially on the highway. I don't know the axle ratio. Can you advise on what's normally in there (1955 studebaker eseries 1/2 ton truck with line six overdrive and manual tranny).

Can you advise on the ratio I should install in the rear axle? Or is changin g the whole axle a better plan? Thanks for helping!

[StudeRich]

The Studebaker Parts Catalog shows the 4.09, 4.27, 4.55 and 4.89 are listed as options on all 1/2 Ton "E" Series 1955 Trucks, 5,6 & 7 Models. Which in English means that the small 6, 169 cid Model 5 like yours, most likely had the 4.89 with the 4.55 as an option for Direct Drive 3 and 4 Speeds, the other higher Ratios are most likely found on the Commander Big 6 or the 224 V8 Option.

You can find out by reading the Tag under a Bolt Head on the Left side of the Diff. rear cover.

ANY of these ratios without Overdrive is going to NOT be very Interstate friendly, except the 4.09 SLIGHTLY, we are talking 50-55 MPH tops here if that.

[bezhawk]

Also be sure and check the oil line flex hose behind the back of the right cylinder head. Also the oil filter hoses for leaks.

[RadioRoy]

If the ratio is any higher than mid 3's, the engine won't last long anyway. It'll blow up sooner than later if driven any faster than 45 or so. Your engine is turning way too fast to last.

Have you ever seen a horse or a deer that ran itself to death and collapsed with foam coming from its nose and mouth? That horse or deer is your engine and that foam is the blow by.

[Polle]

Thanks for your comments and advice. I've decided to pull out the engine (winters' almost here anyway) and open her up to see what's going on. Depending on what I will find, I will decide to do a full engine overhaul. I found a complete spring, gasket etc, set on ebay allready, so that should be ok.

Also, I'm looking at replacing the rear axle to solve the high rev issue. I'm looking for lower revs at higher speed. I found a second hand Chevy Van rear axle (complete with brakes and all) that has the same bolt pattern as the wheels I currently have on the truck (15 inch 5x5). I'm awaiting measurements and the ratio for that replacement axle.

But, before I decide, can you advise on the option to just change the ratio in the original axle? If so, where do I get the parts? For now, changing the axle seems to be the best solution....Thanks again everyone!