Engine: Bolt snapped off in engine block?

[SN-60]

Another interesting and very useful welding rod I've recently tried is called "Extracto Rod". We've all experienced bolts or studs that have broken off either flush with or down inside a cast iron engine block, cylinder head, manifold, etc. This rod is used at lower amperages (60-80). The idea is to weld onto the top of the broken stud...a little tricky...rod must be kept dead center, and as perpendicular to the broken stud as possible, then the weld is built up and out of the threaded hole. When the weld is high enough, a nut is welded on, which can then be worked back and forth with a wrench, loosening the broken off bolt.
The combination of the heat from the arc welding, and this twisting action, USUALLY works. The unique thing about this rod is that as it's flux coat melts and spatters inside the threaded hole,...the flux clings to and actually PROTECTS the threads, insulating them from the welding spatter. Also, the weld itself seems to be able to handle the twisting (torque) 'back and forth' action on the broken off stud or bolt quite well.

[63t-cab]

Sounds like it could be very useful on those occasions,the few times I tried stick welding many years ago it didn't turn out so good - so I guess it wouldn't help Me much .

[SN-60]

Sounds like it could be very useful on those occasions,the few times I tried stick welding many years ago it didn't turn out so good - so I guess it wouldn't help Me much .

Don't count Yourself out Joe!....Improvements in welding rods have made 'stick welding' a bit easier to accomplish than in the past (In My opinion)

[Warren Webb]

Perhaps ones like me that are a bit of "shaky Jakes" could first put a rubber hose inside the hole to guide the rod & get it started, Just a thought.

[SN-60]

Perhaps ones like me that are a bit of "shaky Jakes" could first put a rubber hose inside the hole to guide the rod & get it started, Just a thought.

Yep, I understand the "shaky Jakes' Warren.....but actually, as the flux melts off this rod it really does 'insulate' the threaded hole from the welding....sort of creates its own barrier....so a bit of unsteadiness is OK.

[DEEPNHOCK]

One reason I have refused to toss out my Dad's old Lincoln buzz box stick welder...
I have rods that are as old as I am <lol>...
Nikalloy rod, and stainless rod... All good stuff...
Jeff

[SN-60]

One reason I have refused to toss out my Dad's old Lincoln buzz box stick welder...
I have rods that are as old as I am <lol>...
Nikalloy rod, and stainless rod... All good stuff...
Jeff

Yep...all good stuff. (Are You keeping them good and dry?)

[63t-cab]

Ed I suppose that could be the case,but it's sure been a few decades. as I recall my Father had some rod that was used to cut metal,musta been some awful hard rod . this number sticks "no pun intended" in my mind,7013 that He used to have around,or was it 6013 ?

Don't count Yourself out Joe!....Improvements in welding rods have made 'stick welding' a bit easier to accomplish than in the past (In My opinion)

[SN-60]

Ed I suppose that could be the case,but it's sure been a few decades. as I recall my Father had some rod that was used to cut metal,musta been some awful hard rod . this number sticks "no pun intended" in my mind,7013 that He used to have around,or was it 6013 ?

Yes Joe, I recall using the electric arc.....with the amps cranked way up....to cut steel. Sort of an early version of the modern 'Plasma Cutter! As I remember, the cut came out quite rough and needed a lot of grinding. I don't remember the rod # that was used for that, but it might be the 7013. It burnt down slowly, and was probably 5/32" thick. The 6013 and 6011 rods are still in common (?) use to weld mild steel stock.

[DEEPNHOCK]

(long)

One of my first 'awakenings' and fear removal of everything automotive was when I was a freshman in H.S.
One of my new 'car friends' father was a late model asphalt stock car racer (and a Ford guy, too boot!)
He had a Saturday afternoon/evening race to go to, and his transport truck's 312 Y block crapped out..bad...dead...done.
Not to worry. He had a tree, a chain hoist, and an identical (read that crappy) Ford truck setting out in the field behind his shop.
We all went on full alert and dragged the dead truck under the tree, and unhooked the needed stuff off the engine.
Then Bob took the chainfall and pulled up on the engine/trans.
He took his stick welder out and cranked 'er up.
Used the welder to cut off the old engine mounts and the trans mount.
The old, dead, engine was out in 15 minutes.
Push the truck back...dump the dead engine, drag it to the side.
Rolled the dead truck with the good engine under the same tree.
Did the same routine, but left the engine hanging..
Rolled the good, engineless truck under the tree.
Lowered the engine in...right on the old mounts...sort of. Just dumped it onto the mounts.
Backed the welder down halfway, and welded the half mounts back together,
Hooked the throttle, fuel line, generator wires, and driveshaft back up.
Bob took off for the races with the old greasy mounts still smoking...
But he made qualifying, made the race, and won the feature.
(OK OK. I don't remember if he won the feature...)
Crude? Hell yeah!
Impressive? Hell yeah!
I was immediately impressed that Bob was fearless in his quest to get to the races and race.
I also lost all my fear that the machinery was only workable when everything was perfect.
That was a long time ago, but the memory is still crystal clear.
Jeff
PS: I use 6013 and 7018 for all my stick welding...
Oh! I picked up my Miller Dynasty 350 tig welder from the repair shop today...Woohoo!

Yes Joe, I recall using the electric arc.....with the amps cranked way up....to cut steel. Sort of an early version of the modern 'Plasma Cutter! As I remember, the cut came out quite rough and needed a lot of grinding. I don't remember the rod # that was used for that, but it might be the 7013. It burnt down slowly, and was probably 5/32" thick. The 6013 and 6011 rods are still in common (?) use to weld mild steel stock.

[SN-60]

I enjoyed reading Your story Deep......Good read!

[gordr]

That Extracto-rod sounds like a good thing to get. I have long used my MIG welder to the same effect, and posted about it here in great detail. Agree 100% that it is the repeated heat/cool cycles to the trapped part that eventually break the rust or gall bond.

[SN-60]

Yes, it can come in real handy. If anyone would like to get further info.......The company's Tel # is 1-800-527-9916...Tech assistance is at Ext. 0880.