Looking for feedback experience from those who have successfully installed a Cadillac intake on a Studebaker V-8. Thank you.
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Cadillac Intakes on Studebaker Motors
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They look good, but don't offer improvement over the stock AFB manifold. They do offer nice things like aluminum and multi carbs that Stude didn't offer.
The end bolts don't line up with the holes in the head. You can get by with using the center clamps only, but you may devlope a vacuum leak later on(especially if manifold heat is used). You can take a soft bolt, and screw it in the existing end bolt holes and cut them flush with the head. Lay the Caddy manifold on and mark and drill new holes. Then you can tap and use the new end holes to help clamp the manifold in place.
The ports are a bit wider, and don't line up as well as a stock manifold. The manifolds did offer a slight improvement over the earlier stock manifolds, mainly because the layout was a bit more direct and a straighter shot to the valves. (a slight high rise if you will)
This can cause hood clearance problemsBez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
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Last edited by sweetolbob; 07-14-2013, 08:25 AM.
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[QUOTE=11SecAvanti;759486]Looking for feedback experience from those who have successfully installed a Cadillac intake on a Studebaker V-8. Thank you.[/QUOTE
I notice you said "successfully" and I didn't answer to start with. I tried unsuccessfully. In my opinion, you really need a pair of adapter plates to make it work right. Just me. P.S mine ran, but the wow was all I got. Worse than the wcfb in running.
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Originally posted by bezhawk View PostThey look good, but don't offer improvement over the stock AFB manifold. They do offer nice things like aluminum and multi carbs that Stude didn't offer.
The end bolts don't line up with the holes in the head. You can get by with using the center clamps only, but you may devlope a vacuum leak later on(especially if manifold heat is used). You can take a soft bolt, and screw it in the existing end bolt holes and cut them flush with the head. Lay the Caddy manifold on and mark and drill new holes. Then you can tap and use the new end holes to help clamp the manifold in place.
The ports are a bit wider, and don't line up as well as a stock manifold. The manifolds did offer a slight improvement over the earlier stock manifolds, mainly because the layout was a bit more direct and a straighter shot to the valves. (a slight high rise if you will)
This can cause hood clearance problemsDiesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.
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Thanks for the feedback and search links. I'll clean and sandblast the intake first and then start taking some measurements to determine the adjustments needed. I don't favor filling and moving the bolt holds in the head because that brings to an end a return to a factory intake install. So will focus on attachment hole adjustment on the cadi intake manifold side only. That way the heads will always be correct. I'm not interested in the heat passages so that section can go too.Start and Stage Your Studebakers
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While it CAN be done...to do it correctly is a lot of work.
I have one here that I started for someone years back and the owner ran out of money.
I moved the bolt holes started to move the outer walls and the welding that is needed would be more expensive than I wanted to do on "my" nickle without having money in hand.
The inner ports are...close, but the outer ports are just too far off for good flow without moving them. I tried just welding, but that wasn't good. S removing the outer port wall and replacing it with a piece of aluminum at the correct location would make the manifold..."usable" but still not really nice for the amount of work involved.
Give it a try, let us know what happens and the hours involved to do it.
Might be cheaper to go to Hogan or one of the other manifold builders and just pay the man for a "well designed" intake.
Mike
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Your money, your build, your decision. We have a member here who is running a Cad 2x4 intake on his Stude pickup and is very happy with the performance. Many others have done it with varying degrees of success. Just remember there are early and late Gen I Cad V8 intakes.
JMHO, but I'm with MVV. Been there, done that, never again; to get the Cad ports to really match the Stude head is way more grinding on cast iron than I'm willing to do any more. If one just wants the look, go for it. The early Cad V8 intake can be made to bolt down, seal and run fine on a Stude V8.
However if one wants max performance gain for the time and money invested, get on Jeff Rice's list (AKA here as DEEPNHOCK)for one of his custom aluminum intakes.
jack vinesPackardV8
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Today while working on Bob Peterson's grandson's car, I came across these heads modified to fit a Cadillac. Here is a few pictures.
Black arrow bolt hole moved. Yellow arrow intake runner modified.
Tried posting this three times between the forum my computer and photo bucket nobody is cooperating. The first picture resolutions to big all my photos going to photo bucket I set at the same resolution, haven't figured out the problem yet but I will.
Patrick.Last edited by nibbs53; 07-14-2013, 06:02 PM.
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Why in the world would any one in their right mind want to take a heavy single Cad. manifold and do everything required to make it fit and put it on a Studebaker??? there is a difference when doing a 2X4 or a 3X2 set up but a single ??? nothing gained but a lot of work and to be able to say I have a Cad. manifold on my Studebaker, with so many of the single 4 Studebakes out there why???? have a few here my self with an original carb for sale.Last edited by candbstudebakers; 07-14-2013, 07:12 PM.Candbstudebakers
Castro Valley,
California
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