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57 289 cyl head removal

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  • Engine: 57 289 cyl head removal

    Trying to remove the heads from my 289 motor with no sucess. Think I have all bolts removed except for the rockaer assy.
    Do I have to remove the rocker assy to remove head. If not anyone have any thoughts before I start prying on anything?
    Thanks for the info Rick

  • #2
    Yes, the rocker stand bolts also hold on the head. Studebaker V8's have 18 head bolts.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #3
      The smaller bolts no...the larger bolts yes.

      BUT, it IS better to remove the rocker assembly first. This way, when you are removing the 50lb.+ head, you won't hurt any pushrods..!

      Mike

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      • #4
        Once all the head bolts are removed, and the rocker shaft assy is taken off, and the pushrods are carefully pulled out,....Take a lever about 18" long, insert it into one of the intake ports of the head, then give it a quick yank,......The head should 'pop' off of it's locating dowels. If the engine is out on a stand.....It's a good idea to wear steel-toed shoes!!

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        • #5
          Once all the bolts are out, including the ones in the rocker assembly the head should yank right off the block. If you have to resort to anything to pry it loose, you haven't gotten all the bolts out, and you can ruin the surface of the head and block!!
          1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
          1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
          1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
          1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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          • #6
            Once all the bolts are out, including the ones in the rocker assembly the head should yank right off the block. If you have to resort to anything to pry it loose, you haven't gotten all the bolts out, and you can ruin the surface of the head and block!!
            Given fifty years of corrosion and some of the gasket cements CASOs used, that's not strictly true.

            Yes, check to insure all bolts are removed, but prying is often required.

            jack vines
            PackardV8

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            • #7
              You don't wanna pry. I found this out when I took the heads off of the 259 on the '55. The engine had been in the car since the day it left the assembly line, but it was essentially seized. I had forgotten about the exhaust bolts on the head, so what do I do? I take a screwdriver, shove it between the block and the head, and try and chisel the head off. Only then did I find out I had forgotten about the bolts, and managed to put a nice large gash in the head surface too, where the screwdriver went in between the head and the block. Once I pulled the bolts loose, the head came off with ease! It was all for nothing, because one of the heads had a nice crack in the intake passage, so they were not much good to me. It shouldn't be rocket science, a little bit of wrestling and they should come right off, unless a few of us have failed to eat our Wheaties over the years!
              1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
              1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
              1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
              1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by PlainBrownR2 View Post
                You don't wanna pry. I found this out when I took the heads off of the 259 on the '55. The engine had been in the car since the day it left the assembly line, but it was essentially seized. I had forgotten about the exhaust bolts on the head, so what do I do? I take a screwdriver, shove it between the block and the head, and try and chisel the head off. Only then did I find out I had forgotten about the bolts, and managed to put a nice large gash in the head surface too, where the screwdriver went in between the head and the block. Once I pulled the bolts loose, the head came off with ease! It was all for nothing, because one of the heads had a nice crack in the intake passage, so they were not much good to me. It shouldn't be rocket science, a little bit of wrestling and they should come right off, unless a few of us have failed to eat our Wheaties over the years!
                You're wrong.....But I have to admit that this response of Yours is an entertaining read!!

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                • #9
                  You're wrong.....But I have to admit that this response of Yours is an entertaining read!!


                  Oh, the battle cry of a man whose never disassembled an engine before!!
                  1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                  1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                  1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                  1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Once all the head bolts are removed, and the rocker shaft assy is taken off, and the pushrods are carefully pulled out,....Take a lever about 18" long, insert it into one of the intake ports of the head, then give it a quick yank,......The head should 'pop' off of it's locating dowels.
                    You don't wanna pry. I found this out when I took the heads off of the 259 on the '55. The engine had been in the car since the day it left the assembly line, but it was essentially seized. I had forgotten about the exhaust bolts on the head, so what do I do? I take a screwdriver, shove it between the block and the head, and try and chisel the head off.
                    Anyone see a difference?

                    jack vines
                    PackardV8

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by studelyman View Post
                      Trying to remove the heads from my 289 motor with no sucess. Think I have all bolts removed except for the rockaer assy.
                      Do I have to remove the rocker assy to remove head. If not anyone have any thoughts before I start prying on anything?
                      Thanks for the info Rick
                      Yes you do!

                      The big headed bolts on the rockers are really long and are used in the torque sequence when you put the head back on.. Keep track of which length came from which row. There are 3 different lengths and need to go back in the same place.

                      Remove the rocker assembly and push rods first, then replace two of the long bolts, front and back..

                      Remove all other head bolts.

                      I'm assuming you removed the intake and exhaust manifold already.

                      If you need to pry the head off you can stick a bar in the ports of the exhaust or intake and the two bolts you put back can help keep the head from sliding off when it breaks free!

                      Once free remove the two "helper" bolts and prepare for a hernia

                      Ladies, fight nice..

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                      • #12
                        Anyone see a difference?

                        jack vines


                        Yeah, don't pry by shoving a sharp object between the machined surfaces of the head and the block!!

                        Of course, those '55 heads needed some major work soon after anyway, so they were not good from the getgo anyway. They went on once on the 289, and had to come off again after I found the coolant leak from a cracked intake port. The stock 289 heads that I pulled and reinstalled 3-4 times to the same 289, were done with a simple tap of a soft mallet, and they'd break loose without prying on anything. Just wiggle it around a little, a quick yank, and pull from the engine bay. It's all in the wrists, hehehe......
                        Last edited by PlainBrownR2; 06-24-2013, 10:19 PM.
                        1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                        1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                        1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                        1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          No one's mentioned this so I'll put it in, Just in case.

                          Drain the block before your take the heads off. Unless you're doing a complete rebuild you don't want coolant in your cylinders. As soon as the gasket breaks loose, coolant is going to run into the tops of the cylinders otherwise.

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                          • #14
                            Is this engine seized?

                            If not, spin the engine over with the starter with the head bolts loose. That often loosens the heads.

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