Body / Glass: cowl weatherstriping installation on a 1953 c coupe

[53 stude mod]

I just purchased the cowl to hood weatherstriping from Studebaker international.I test fitted it before gluing it down
and thats when i found out that it appears to be too thick and throws the hood out of alignment. I called SI and they
said they have sold over 1000 of these and have had no complaints. It is a pretty simple install and I can't see anything
I am doing wrong. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Anyone out there in studebaker land have
any suggestions. thank you joe dipipi 53 stude mod

[Tom Bredehoft]

Joe, It's been a few years since I installed one of those, but if I remember correctly, they are quite soft and the hood mashes them flat. Perhaps your hood needs a bit of down adjustment in the back.

[PackardV8]

FWIW, Stude C/K hoods never fit the cowl (and fenders) that well when new. I've spent hours trying to get even gaps all around. Even seen a couple of low-miles survivors in museums and the general panel fit was off everywhere. FWIW, it wasn't just a Stude problem. Until the Japanese showed the world how well car bodies could be built, most US cars had thin paint and random panel fit.

Then, if one gets the hood/cowl/fender alignment close, the stresses of raising and lowering that huge, weak hood, especially '56-61 Hawks, can bend the sheet metal, no matter how careful the operator. BTDT I've learned to weld in extra-heavy reinforcing strips inside the hood outer edge sides at the back.

jack vines

[63t-cab]

Jack, I sent you a pm.

FWIW, Stude C/K hoods never fit the cowl (and fenders) that well when new. I've spent hours trying to get even gaps all around. Even seen a couple of low-miles survivors in museums and the general panel fit was off everywhere. FWIW, it wasn't just a Stude problem. Until the Japanese showed the world how well car bodies could be built, most US cars had thin paint and random panel fit.

Then, if one gets the hood/cowl/fender alignment close, the stresses of raising and lowering that huge, weak hood, especially '56-61 Hawks, can bend the sheet metal, no matter how careful the operator. BTDT I've learned to weld in extra-heavy reinforcing strips inside the hood outer edge sides at the back.

jack vines

[53 stude mod]

you are so right I have this car about ready for paint and upholstery but the fit on the doors,
trunk and hood needs someone who knows how it was when new, would be needed for fitment.
guess i will leave that rubber piece for the next owner as my property taxes have to be paid so i
will probably put this 53 stude modified up for sale. Thank you guys for the information i love this
forum. joedipipi@msn.com anyone wants to know more about this car for sale feel free to email me.

[warrlaw1]

LOL. Horror story: my good ol boy was trying to assemble the hood, fenders et al on my 55K. As per the forum advice, hood first, then line everything else up. But the car had been hit and the hood was no longer symetrical. I caught him cutting metal out of my fenders to fit with the crooked hood! It cost $7500 to undo the damage. When it went to a good body shop, they straightened everything, assembled it, block sanded everything, put the trim on to line it all up and then disassembled everything, again, for paint and final fit. It cost mucho, but it is straight as an arrow (much better than factory) and black. Hood stiffeners, like Jack suggested, were in place before any fitiing was done. The hood to cowl seal went on after paint and before final fit. Frame to body mounts, rubber spacers and all that had to be adjusted many times to get it straight before it was disassembled for paint. Big job, but the results are there, if you want to go for it. Good luck.

[studegary]

LOL. Horror story: my good ol boy was trying to assemble the hood, fenders et al on my 55K. As per the forum advice, hood first, then line everything else up. But the car had been hit and the hood was no longer symetrical. I caught him cutting metal out of my fenders to fit with the crooked hood! It cost $7500 to undo the damage. When it went to a good body shop, they straightened everything, assembled it, block sanded everything, put the trim on to line it all up and then disassembled everything, again, for paint and final fit. It cost mucho, but it is straight as an arrow (much better than factory) and black. Hood stiffeners, like Jack suggested, were in place before any fitiing was done. The hood to cowl seal went on after paint and before final fit. Frame to body mounts, rubber spacers and all that had to be adjusted many times to get it straight before it was disassembled for paint. Big job, but the results are there, if you want to go for it. Good luck.

I wonder about some body shops. This reminds me of a Lark that I sold that had a wrinkled up front fender. I pointed out to the new owner that the right front had been pushed back slightly. When the guy took it to a body shop, they convinced him that it needed a new fender. They used up two new fenders before cutting one and getting it to fit rather than pulling the right front back into correct position. The guy never contacted me through this, just complained to me afterwards.

[Paul Keller]

Two other factors in preventing hood creasing at the hinge; Keep the hinge pivots well oiled and, when opening pull the hood out toward the front and, when closing push it back toward the cowl. Have the reinforcement but have not installed them and have had no binding or visible stress on the hood. Also, the hood springs need to be in good shape - The "official Stude'" replacement springs were weaker than the old ones being replaced. Luckily, found some better ones @ the local Miners Ace Hardware store.

Paul TK