Engine: Supercharger Question - Expert Needed

[sals54]

I came across a Paxton "supercharger" with a serial number of CB 60. The research I've done so far tells me its not a supercharger, but an air pump. Can this still be used as parts for a SN 60??? Its in very good condition and turns freely with just a modest amount of resistance as a supercharger normally does. If anyone can tell me more about it, I would appreciate it.
BTW, I got it cheap and would let it go cheap if someone could use it.
So, let the info start pouring in.... and make it all good news, as I'm tired of bad news. OK, never mind, I'll accept any and all honesty. Make me cry if you have to.

[PackardV8]

Hi, Sal,

A photo would be interesting. I've seen Paxton blowers come out of air circulation systems in submarines. They were larger and didn't have the ball drive step up systems.

jack vines

[sals54]

I'll try to get a picture posted tomorrow, but it looks exactly like a SN60. Its even orange with the Paxton sticker on it.

[WCP]

Put a mark on the impeller and check the step-up ratio. If it's the correct number, 4.3:1 I think, then it probably has SN60 innards. Then a careful case separation is warranted to confirm.

[sals54]

[WCP]

You need to rotate the scroll housing to an upper position suitable for a top mount or side mount. It is unlikely that this can be done without separating the case halves, since it has been in that position for a period of time. Also, you will then be able to see if the innards are SN60, SN92 or others. Remove the case screws following the procedure in the shop manual. If the halves separate 1/8", it is probably an SN60 with the spring loaded races. Continue working the case halves apart gradually and peripherally. I use a pair of overlapping putty knives with a flat bladed screw driver slipped between the knives. This way, you will inflict no damage to the aluminum housings. Once free, lift the front housing vertically away from the rear and set aside on a clean surface. You can now inspect the innards for the race load spring pack to identify series. At this point take a couple pictures, and then reassemble rotating the front housing to provide the upper air outlet position desired. Then follow the shop procedure to gradually and evenly tighten the case screws to draw the case halves together. Make sure the O-rings are wet with lube (ATF) and that they squeeze into the case evenly without damage.
If the insides are dirty, or show damage or any condition that indicates a rebuild, then remove the O-rings to simplify assembly and disassembly.

[SN-60]

To: sals54,------Is there some type of fitting on the scroll housing at the 11 o'clock position as You view the blower from the front? There looks to be something there in picture #1

[sals54]

To: sals54,------Is there some type of fitting on the scroll housing at the 11 o'clock position as You view the blower from the front? There looks to be something there in picture #1

Yes, there is an AN fitting located there. I do not know what this would be for. Unless it is used as some sort of recirc line for the lubricant, perhaps??? Or if that's located in the pressurized side of the blower, it could be used to read blower pressure. I just don't know.

[WCP]

That fitting appears to enter the scroll area toward the low pressure or intake side and could have been used for some form of injection into the air stream. The pressure balance port can be seen in the air output port. Interesting!

[sals54]

You need to rotate the scroll housing to an upper position suitable for a top mount or side mount. It is unlikely that this can be done without separating the case halves, since it has been in that position for a period of time. Also, you will then be able to see if the innards are SN60, SN92 or others. Remove the case screws following the procedure in the shop manual. If the halves separate 1/8", it is probably an SN60 with the spring loaded races. Continue working the case halves apart gradually and peripherally. I use a pair of overlapping putty knives with a flat bladed screw driver slipped between the knives. This way, you will inflict no damage to the aluminum housings. Once free, lift the front housing vertically away from the rear and set aside on a clean surface. You can now inspect the innards for the race load spring pack to identify series. At this point take a couple pictures, and then reassemble rotating the front housing to provide the upper air outlet position desired. Then follow the shop procedure to gradually and evenly tighten the case screws to draw the case halves together. Make sure the O-rings are wet with lube (ATF) and that they squeeze into the case evenly without damage.
If the insides are dirty, or show damage or any condition that indicates a rebuild, then remove the O-rings to simplify assembly and disassembly.

Well, everything has proceeded as you had forseen... Are you sure you're not a Dark Lord of the Sith??? Anyhoo, the case separated 1/8 th inch when the screws were loosened. The case then came apart just as you said. The pictures tell the rest of the story. The numbers scribed in the top of the balls carrier are: W 2366. I don't know what those numbers mean. Here are the pictures:




Then I clocked it for the correct attitude for Studebaker installation with the outlet at the top.
Should I have gone deeper into the innards??
Thanks again for all your help.

[SN-60]

To: sals54,----The aluminum 'ball driver' looks to be good (sometimes they appear 'chewed up'). But the five drive balls, both outer races, and the output shaft really need to be inspected for any signs of damage (pitting-flaking) before that supercharger is put into use. I'd check the function of the internal oil pump also. (Simply by spinning it -input shaft-by hand with the pickup submerged in ATF. Good luck with it!

[63 R2 Hawk]

For automotive applications, the balls must match diameters to within +/- 0.00001", which is usually beyond the measuring capabilities of what most of us have in our toolboxes. Any slight mismatch will cause them to start slipping at high RPM and destroy the races and other things. If you have access to a facility that has precision measuring equipment I would suggest you have the balls inspected by them.

[hawk58man]

Sals54, what a great find!! I hope it works out well for you .Keep us in the loop..

[sals54]

The balls looked flawless to me, but that was just with the naked eye. I'm not going to get them mic'd to one one hundred thousandth of an inch. If it didn't grenade itself in its current form, then I feel assured that its usable. Thanks to all who helped me on this.

[WCP]

It looks like you have a good SN60. You are right to leave it be as the races and balls should not be handled with bare hands. I use a plastic cartridge fuse puller #2 for that part of the job. If it turned smoothly before and the innards are clean, it should be good to go. As SN60 advises, verify that the oil pump is working. Slip a thin mirror or piece of shiny foil under the screen retainer to check for clogged or varnished screen, pour some ATF under it with the housing tipped and spin the shaft clockwise. Oil should be pumped into the bore at the rear of the input shaft.
As to the modifications, I see that the external fitting is into pump portion of the housing. Also there appears to be a detail about 20 degrees right of the oil pump pickup that I don't recognize. Can you zoom in on that with a picture?