I have a desire to install dual exhaust on my 66 Daytona (283 v8) I've done a lot of reading on this forum, and I want to make sure that I have it correct before I move forward. Am I correct in that the Avanti II ram horn exhaust manifolds will fit? I do believe that I have manifold leaks, so replacing now seems like the right thing. Then, the "hot setup" is to purchase the rest of the (2 1/4") exhaust (including the head pipe) from Don Simmons- Silvertone Exhaust Systems in Ontario Canada? If most of you believe that this is the way to go, how readily available (or who is currently supplying) these exhaust manifolds? I know there is a lot of discussion on this, and I have read much of it, just want to be sure, I know many of you have installed duals on '66's, can't believe they didn't come through the assembly line with dual exhausts......Thanks for the help!!
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Dual Exhaust for a 283 V8 '66 Daytona
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OK: having gone through that exact same thing on my late 1962 Lark with its swapped in Chevy 350 and 2" outlet 1960's C10 Rams Horns atop 1965-66 283 engine mount pedestals (stock location); you should be able to use a pair of 2 1/2" Corvette Rams Horns. I used Parks pipes for the headpipes and was disappointed; the L/H one fouled the steering reach rod (drag link to the Pitman arm) along with a custom bent/cobbled up (by me) system out back. Next time; I'll probably go with the Simmons twin system, manifolds on back.--------------------------------------
Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
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My 66 Daytona 283 has dual exhaust using the stock exhaust manifolds. I dropped the car off at a local custom exhaust shop at 9AM and had it back by 2PM. Are your manifolds cracked or just leaking because of bad gaskets? Unless you're going for max performance the stock manifolds should work OK.sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
1950 Champion Convertible
1950 Champion 4Dr
1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
1957 Thunderbird
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Originally posted by 1962larksedan View PostOK: having gone through that exact same thing on my late 1962 Lark with its swapped in Chevy 350 and 2" outlet 1960's C10 Rams Horns atop 1965-66 283 engine mount pedestals (stock location); you should be able to use a pair of 2 1/2" Corvette Rams Horns. I used Parks pipes for the headpipes and was disappointed; the L/H one fouled the steering reach rod (drag link to the Pitman arm) along with a custom bent/cobbled up (by me) system out back. Next time; I'll probably go with the Simmons twin system, manifolds on back.
Simmons above is Don Simmons (Silvertone Exhaust). No web page but an advertiser in Turning Wheel and available by phone. Darn nice guy and a great product, I have a set of 2 1/4" on my 83 Avanti. He only makes Stainless units so as an option, you may want to visit a local muffler shop and get a quote once you have the manifolds. Don only makes 2 and 2 1/4" pipes.
If the manifolds you want have brackets you don't need, just grind them off, I did on the 2 1/2" ones on my 83.
A pretty straight forward solution.
Bob
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Originally posted by thunderations View PostMy 66 Daytona 283 has dual exhaust using the stock exhaust manifolds. I dropped the car off at a local custom exhaust shop at 9AM and had it back by 2PM. Are your manifolds cracked or just leaking because of bad gaskets? Unless you're going for max performance the stock manifolds should work OK.sals54
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Just some added info, IIRC, Dorman (re)produces the 2 1/2" outlet ramshorn manifolds that I think Bob is talking about and they are dirt cheap, something like 50$ a pop. When I took apart my exhaust system I noticed that one manifold had a flat gasket mating surface, and the other one was bevelled (exit end of the manifolds). I then discoverd that the flat one was for the passenger side, and was made that way to mate with the heat riser valve, and the bevelled side was for the driver's side. My car has never had the heat riser, and my Dad originally just cut a 'doughnut' in half so one side was flat, and the other was bevelled, and that sealed up the head pipe for 30 some years. I'm not sure what the exhaust shop did for a new gasket when I had a new system installed, but what ever they did works too. I guess the bottom line is, if your manifolds have different mating flanges, now you know why. Regards, Junior.sigpic
1954 C5 Hamilton car.
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I visited a local, custom exhaust shop today. With your advice in hand, the owner of the shop came out and said "ya know, unless the manifolds are cracked, I can make the head pipes and run a set of dual exhausts in 5 hours." Thank you very much for your help!
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Originally posted by thunderations View PostMy 66 Daytona 283 has dual exhaust using the stock exhaust manifolds. I dropped the car off at a local custom exhaust shop at 9AM and had it back by 2PM. Are your manifolds cracked or just leaking because of bad gaskets? Unless you're going for max performance the stock manifolds should work OK.
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Originally posted by Sketchy26 View PostThis is exactly what I am going to do. Visited a local custom bending shop today. I'm not going to over complicate it if I don't have to. Does your car have a red or champagne color interior? Mine is Mount Royal red exterior Witt the champagne interior.
The funny thing is, if I do a full restoration of this car, I'll go back to the original single exhaust.
Is your car registered in the 1966 Daytona registry? Bob Barrick is the contact. He is known as 2R5 on this forum.sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
1950 Champion Convertible
1950 Champion 4Dr
1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
1957 Thunderbird
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Originally posted by Sketchy26 View PostI visited a local, custom exhaust shop today. With your advice in hand, the owner of the shop came out and said "ya know, unless the manifolds are cracked, I can make the head pipes and run a set of dual exhausts in 5 hours." Thank you very much for your help!sals54
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If I remember right the 65-66 with the 283 engine had a special exhaust manifold for the Driver side because of the type of power steering Studebaker used, it is the one with the stub nose up front to mount the pump, never seen that one on any Chevy cars, I think they are rather hard to come by. One can always use block hugger headers, that is what will be going on my 66 Daytona hardtop when ready.
Last edited by candbstudebakers; 01-12-2013, 11:02 PM.Candbstudebakers
Castro Valley,
California
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My 66 Daytona has Hooker block hugger headers & a muffler shop 2 & 1/4" pipes (aluminized) that fit & sound good, although when they were done (by a friend who owned the shop) he didnt do the tail pipes but ended them in front of the rear axle.59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
64 Zip Van
66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
66 Cruiser V-8 auto
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66 Daytona Hardtop? 1966 Daytona's were only made in 2 Dr Sports Sedans. I'm guessing that's what you mean. BTW, thanks for the vanity, it's just as you said.
[QUOTE=candbstudebakers;710354]If I remember right the 65-66 with the 283 engine had a special exhaust manifold for the Driver side because of the type of power steering Studebaker used, it is the one with the stub nose up front to mount the pump, never seen that one on any Chevy cars, I think they are rather hard to come by. One can always use block hugger headers, that is what will be going on my 66 Daytona hardtop when ready.QUOTE]sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
1950 Champion Convertible
1950 Champion 4Dr
1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
1957 Thunderbird
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[QUOTE=thunderations;710425]66 Daytona Hardtop? 1966 Daytona's were only made in 2 Dr Sports Sedans. I'm guessing that's what you mean. BTW, thanks for the vanity, it's just as you said.
Originally posted by candbstudebakers View PostIf I remember right the 65-66 with the 283 engine had a special exhaust manifold for the Driver side because of the type of power steering Studebaker used, it is the one with the stub nose up front to mount the pump, never seen that one on any Chevy cars, I think they are rather hard to come by. One can always use block hugger headers, that is what will be going on my 66 Daytona hardtop when ready.QUOTE]
No Ken I mean 66 hardtop with no post, it is the car that Studebaker should have built and after 20 years of owning this 64 Daytona hardtop with the plans in my head of doing this car like a 66 time is now and have been working on it for the past 6 months, the engine in the picture is going into the car and was built a few years ago just for this car, it is a 69 350 HP 327 with duel 4's at first I was going 4 speed but as I get older changed my mind to 700-R4 or 200-4 now that I have every thing to make the change I need to move ahead and get it done.
Candbstudebakers
Castro Valley,
California
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OK, Bob, You're building a car that never existed, but should have been. I agree that the hardtops are nice looking, a convertible would be even better. It's too bad Studebaker didn't use the GM 327 engines in 1966 as a replacement for the R1 to get a performance model.sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
1950 Champion Convertible
1950 Champion 4Dr
1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
1957 Thunderbird
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