Body / Glass: Replacing window flipper trim

[Seanpcola]

I need to replace the fuzz strips on the door flippers ('53 K body).

I found the correct strips but does anyone have any special tricks for removing the old strips? I've made several chisels so far in an attempt to gently pry the rolled over bead that retains them. Any tricks or special tools available?

Thanks in advance,

Sean

[Welcome]

I need to replace the fuzz strips on the door flippers ('53 K body). I found the correct strips but does anyone have any special tricks for removing the old strips? I've made several chisels so far in an attempt to gently pry the rolled over bead that retains them. Any tricks or special tools available? Thanks in advance, Sean

http://www.studebakervendors.com/midwest/index.htm

Good Luck!!!

[Seanpcola]

Thanks for the link! Hadn't heard of these folks before.

I played with one yesterday and it took a llooonnnggg time to remove the old trim without damaging the frame.

I'll give them a call.

[Stan.Gundry]

Here is how I handled that problem on my '53 K body. Neatly cut out the old material with a razor blade and clean the surface behind it. Buy a roll of black Velcro with the industrial strength self adhesive. Apply the fuzzy part of the Velcro roll to the area needing new fuzz, and then carefully trim off the excess with a sharp razor or Exacto-type blade. It worked perfectly for me.

[Seanpcola]

Hi Stan,

Thanks for the input. I ended up doing something close to what you do.

I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to remove the old material. Next, I taped up the assemblies leaving only the surface where the trim would contact the inside of the SS trim. I then bead blasted that area which also cleaned the hinge and spring mounts. Painted all of the steel mounts for further protection. I already had several pieces of reproduction "fuzz strip" so I used a bandsaw to remove the attachment bead. I used Gorilla (WBPU) glue to bond them in place. SO far so good on my test piece. As an experiment I put the test piece in the freezer overnight then tried to pry it loose. I did that to see if extreme temperature change would affect the adhesive. Seems to work.

Today I'll do all of the actual pieces going back on the car. I do believe I'll use your idea on the velcro strips instead. The imbedded metal backing on the repro pieces add extra effort to the project so again, thanks for that.

I'm glad to have gotten this step figured out because I have to do the same thing on my bosses '57 Goldenhawks.

[61Hawk4sp]

After cleaning all the old fuzzy out, I also did the black velcro trick and it looks like factory and the self adhesive holds it great.

[Seanpcola]

Picked up some HD velcro today so should be good to go. Had to put the flipper project on hold while I wait on a shipment of rivets. Had to remove some of the hinge pieces and spring retainers and replace them so rivets had to be ground out from the backside. Can't put the fuzz back in until the riveting is done.

Thanks to everyone. Downside is that now that I've got the flipper rebuilding thing down my boss decided I need to do the ones on his 3 Goldenhawks. I'll be grinding and gluing all next week!

[Doug M]

Sean are you in pensacola. Doug M On the beautiful Alabama Gulf Coast

[Seanpcola]

Sean are you in pensacola. Doug M On the beautiful Alabama Gulf Coast

Yep, sure am Doug. Didn't we meet at the Naval Aviation Museum a couple of months ago? I was the guy driving Tony's red and white Goldenhawk. It was on "International Drive Your Studebaker Day".

These flippers I am working on are for Tony's '53 K body that Cliff Collier has in his shop right now.

[Doug M]

Ok Just cheaking to see if any thing new around. I'll have to go cheak it out tomorrow

[Seanpcola]

Yeah, go check it out. I did the complete chassis and motor. It's now back under the body and Cliff is about 80% done with the pretty outside stuff. I'm now tasked with the trim, glass work and little details. Should be all painted by New Year's and then off to the upholsterer.