Engine: Engine break-in question.

[pgothard]

Regarding my fresh and complete Stude 299 (bored-over 289) rebuild: the engine shop instructs me to fire-up the motor static and immediately bring it to 1800rpm for 20-30 minutes - NO IDLING - to break-in cam bearings and rings. OK. My question is what to do about the fact that this motor is set up for an auto trans (Stude Powershift). It will have a dry torque-converter and trans at break-in. If I simply pull the trans, I can't imagine that even the torque-converter can run dry for that period at 1800rpm (or can it?), and I can't fill the system with fluid without a period at idle while I add all the quarts of fluid. Do I have to temporarily remove the flex-plate and install a flywheel from a standard shift?

Sorry if this has been discussed before, but I did a search and couldn't find anything. Can anyone lead me in the direction of a solution?

Thanks!

--Paul

[studegary]

How about filling the transmission prior to start up with approximately the correct amount of fluid, maybe one quart less than spec'd. capacity.

[Mike Van Veghten]

First comment, you're NOT breaking in the cam "bearings"...! If there is a bearing problem at startup, you've got problems.
This first few minutes is ONLY to break in the cam/lifters to each other...
The next 500 to 1000 miles is ONLY to break in the piston rings to the cylinders..
The other odds and ends will seat themselves from the initial startup.

As far as your transmission...
BEFORE...you install the converter, pour one quart of oil (trans. fluid!) into the converter.
Pour 3 or 4 (as many as you can without getting it on the floor !!) quarts into the trans., all before the initial startup. Have a second person helping to pour fresh fluid into the trans. as the engine is running to the correct quantity of quarts of oil.

The occasional light "reving" of the engine is fine as it creates more splash of oil to get it onto the cam/lifters. I sometimes pour an additional quart of oil into the pan to help with this splash process. Don't drive it this way though. Drain the extra quart out before driving the car.

Don't forget to check the water level so you don't overheat the engine at this point.

Mike

[kirkdob]

I just did mine, similar drill as you mentioned. I did however add the correct amount of Red Line break in additive for flat tappet motors such as ours.