Engine: Stude won't run under load

[55cmndr]

[52hawk]

Sounds like it's starved for fuel. Check that 'new' fuel filter first-with any crud at all in the gas tank,the filter can plug very quickly.

[rodnutrandy]

If it seems to miss, I would add a couple cans of dry gas to tank. The gas today really draws moisture. THe checking of filter is also a good idea. In 2 weeks setting, my truck wouldn't run , and it had drawn in that much moisture in the fuel in that time. ( a lot of changes in temp made tank sweat )

[Dan Timberlake]

I would test the fuel delivery and pressure test at the carb while cranking. the results will answer a lot of questions about fuel pump, fuel line, and filter condition. That is why it is among the first steps specified by manufacturers in a real tune-up. The shop manual has specs for pressure and volume, but my copy is buried right now. there have been times when I hooked a pressure gage to the fuel line near the carb and taped the gage to the windshield for on-the-road testing to troubleshoot problems.

[stehlik]

sounds like your plug wires on the distributer are one terminal off?

[nvonada]

I would think ignition first too. If it runs great at idle your ignition wires are probably correct. Double check timing (did you disconnect the vaccum advance when timing?) and dwell. Usually these things are pretty simple.

Nathan

[jackb]

I've been having the exact same syptoms on my 63' Cruiser.....I've got new points, wires, plugs, and the timing has always been the same. When I 1st drove the car in 4/12....it stalled out badly just in the gas station lot. Wouldn't pump gas. Assumed it was the original pump (40K miles) attacked by new gas. Installed a rebuilt (> 20 yr old) pump and things worked fine through the spring and then I started to install the engine attachments for AC. Car sat for 4 months with 3/4 tank full of then fresh gas. Now it behaves the same way. Starts up fine..fast idles fine....place in gear and it stalls out. I thought bad gas. Put in 1 bottle of dry gas and I was hopeful things were better. Got it on the highway and could move at speed but couldn't get any acceleration w/o bucking and near-backfire.....topped off the tank...same symptoms.....

[Tom Bredehoft]

Another thread with similar symptoms, new points were lacking a spring. Verify that your points are closing without bouncing. (just check for a good spring).

[RadioRoy]

You probably have figured this out already, but...

Next time, you might try try doing only one thing at a time, and then testing how the car runs after that. If it works, then do the next thing. Since you did so many things at one time, the problem could be anywhere - or there could be two problems.

[59r2]

I had the same problem with a 59 259 v8 after going crazy changing stuff I realized there was a carbon resister on the rotor that diaappeared so perfectly I never noticed it missing until I pulled out a new rotor and saw it. Car would start but no power.check the rotor