Got fuel pump rebuild kit,torn rubber piece? HELP!

[sbca96]

OK. .. I JUST got the fuel pump rebuild kit from S.I. on my porch. I
was going to yank the fuel pump off, but while inspecting the parts I
noticed this torn rubber part. Maybe I can remove it off the old one
when I tear it apart?? Is it important? Considering whats around it
it doesnt seem like its a sealing area :





Tom

[Mike Van Veghten]

Please...let me the first to state the obvious.

Send it back....! Get another one!

Why are you replacing the existing guts...because the rubber is old, torn, stiff, leaking, etc., etc.

Don't put an old hard piece of rubber on a fresh rebuild! Unless you can most definatly say..."it doesn't do any thing usefull"....replace it with a good part not a used up part....or leave it off altogether.

Mike

[N8N]

seconded- if that area doesn't seal well, oil can get down onto the top of the diaphragm... BTDT

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[sbca96]

Mike, Nate .. thanks for the input, and as you can probably guess I am
REALLY regretting keeping the piece of crap mechanical pump. It is
now Friday, if I send it back, and wait for another, I will miss a
show next weekend. Not too mention I was going to drive the car to
In & Out tonight to show off the seats. Where can I get that part? I
guess I can jet over to Napa and have them look. You mention its an
"AC" part .. what do you mean? Why did I blow 40 bucks on this?

Tom

[sbca96]

Requested pictures :











Tom

[Roscomacaw]

AC brand fuel pump. Like AC spark plugs.[)]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

[sbca96]

Thanks Biggs ... I knew it was one of two things, either "AC Delco"
or AC - as in air conditioning parts.

I guess I will just drive the car tonight with the leaking pump. It
doesnt have any "extra" oil in it yet, so its a slight leak. I just
planned on driving the Avanti to In & Out to show off the seats this
evening. I hate planning stuff I can not do. Its 110 mile round
trip - wish me luck.

Tom

[sbca96]

OK .. here is what you get for your 40 bucks. Just FYI everyone. It
didnt come with any instructions either :





Mike M was nice enough to send me instructions by email, he is also
helping me out with the damaged part. Hopefully can get this taken
care of next week. I am going to drive the car tonight though, going
to bring the cell phone. I have AAA towing.

Tom

[Rosstude]

If that seal is not just right it will leak oil, BTDT.
I have used a few kits from this place, http://www.then-now.com/index.htm about $25 + shipping. I have nothing but good things to say about SI, but I am all for saving a buck where I can.
That said, all 5 of the Stude pumps I have rebuilt leak oil to some degree, some pump it out, some weep, I have found a carful application of permitex #1 around the OD of that seal helps. All pump fuel just fine though. I have taken to buying new pumps for a few more bucks, I found part number AR1-4227 at my local wholesaler for $42. They have no listing, but I gave them this number, and ordered it, I think I got the number here.

Ross.
Riverside, Ca.
1957 Provincial X2
1958 Transtar
1963 Lark. F.S.

[StudeRich]

Ross; isn't that the standard V-8 pump, that all the Stude. vendors sell? Those are small and will not replace a "high volume" type R1 or R2 pump like Tom's (sbca96).
The problem with those is the actuating lever pivot pin is driven through the case and leaks oil. Those are Airtex copies of the original aftermarket replacement pumps made by AC division of *M.
In the day, they never were any good and they have not gotten any better in current form. The good news is they are cheap and pump fuel!Along with some oil![xx(][}] The only good pump is a original equipment Carter pump like Stude. used, they have the pin internal to the case. If you find an old one and rebuild it, it will outlast a dozen of those Airtex ones! [^]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[sbca96]

Well, I made it the 110 miles round trip without incident, checked the
oil when I got there to see if I had "extra" - all was good. Drove
home fine. Looked at it in the garage, and no fuel leaks. Now I am
wondering if the fuel was "blown back" from the supply hose. After I
plugged that vent, it looked like the supply hose was leaking from the
clamps, so I moved them and retightened. I am going to rebuild the
pump regardless - for piece of mind.

I think that number is for the standard pump, the replacement R1 pump
from S.I. is $166 bucks - thats a heck of a markup! Standard is $56
for Airtek, and $65 for Carter.

Tom

[CHAMP]

Glad to hear the trip went well. Bet everybody loved those seats. BTW when you check the oil be sure to smell dipstick to make sure your not getting any gas in the oil.

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

[Mike]

Tom's kit from SI looks like the same one I got, a few years ago.
Mine didn't come with the instructions that the "Cellar" says they included with the kits they sold to suppliers, either. Without those to explain the very different parts, I thought I had the wrong kit.
There are three sets of valve parts. Maybe the kit fits another pump with a three valve body, too. If there is a three valve body that adapts to an "R" pump, with the large diaphragm, I want one!
I've asked Tom to post a picture of the stem seal with the later washer, when he gets it. It looks a lot better. The spring bears against the washer and compresses the seal only until the edge of the washer bottoms out in the housing. Cellar says they sold a thousand of the kits with the flat washer, and the only problems were because of improper installation. They acknowledge that the formed washer is an improvement.
You can reuse the original mushroom valve retainers, instead of using the rivets in the kit. Likewise, the white spring he includes is much lighter than the original; and is optional. All that is explained in the instructions.
Mike M.

[Mike]

About new replacements for "R" pumps:
My Avanti came with a modified M6270 Carter pump, when I bought it. Summit still has them, for $77.95. That's a satin finish, strip pump for small Chrysler engines. It has three valves, and 1/4" NPT ports in and out. (An "R" pump has two valves, and is 1/4" in and 1/8" out). The diaphragm isn't as big around as an "R" pump, and the valves are a little smaller. It's supposed to flow 120 gph @ 7.5 psi.
To use it on a Stude, the pump has to be taken apart, and the operating arm heated and bent. After the final heating, I think you should cool it quickly, for hardness.
I posted a diagram of the stock and modified arms, that I traced, on the Yahoo Avanti chat group. Any of the small block Chrysler pumps should convert the same.
If it's for an "R2" you also need to drill and tap the boss for the boost reference line, and plug the atmospheric vent. That's easy.
I prefer the real "R" pump; but I think this is a good substitute. I don't think it should be sold as the "R" pump without explanation. I think some vendors do; for big bucks.

Mike M.

[N8N]

Can you just swap the arm from a "real" pump? or are there enough differences that that won't work? Do you cool the arm in water or oil?

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel