Engine: Intake Manifold torque and cup washers

[over50]

I searched the forum but didn't find a discussion on this. For my 63 259 V8, the manual says to torque the intake manifold bolts to 26-30 ft-lb. The bolts in the mid positions with the cup washer that bridges the manifold sections, will not pull up to 30 ft-lb. They start crushing. I found two of them had cracks. Luckily, I found two good ones in a junk box. So I stopped trying to get 30 ft-lb. I stopped tightening when the these bolts got to where the torque wasn't increasing as I tightened. That point was in the 22-25 ft-lb range.

Comments?
Thanks
Norm

[Tom Bredehoft]

New washers are available. Try SI. If you can't achieve recommended torque, They should be replaced.

[WCP]

There are thin ones and heavier or thicker ones. The cups supplied by SI are the heavier ones. The factory appeared to use the thinner ones in '63 & '64 on cars that I have dealt with and they will crack on re-use. Those supplied by SI will take the torque.

[Stude Rookie]

There are thin ones and heavier or thicker ones. The cups supplied by SI are the heavier ones. The factory appeared to use the thinner ones in '63 & '64 on cars that I have dealt with and they will crack on re-use. Those supplied by SI will take the torque.

My R1 is a 1963' Avanti power plant. I mentioned in a recent post "Oh Poo!" that I heard a popping noise when I tightened the last hold down when I replaced my intake. This post may have answered my question.
Stude Rookie

[over50]

Thanks for the answer. I'll buy the new from SI. I'm not sure if I should bother replacing what I have at this time since I can't see cracks. I sprayed the metal gaskets both sides with form-a-gasket. With the torques I got, they are probably crushed. I used taps and dies to cleanup the threads and lubed the bolts and holes for installation so I probably got as much crush force as most do even though the torque was just below the bottom of the recommended range. The engine is running fine so I don't have a vacuum leak now. Does this sound reasonable?

Thanks
Norm

[WCP]

over50, what you've done sounds reasonable. However, a word of caution - you mention cleaning up the threads with "taps and dies". Regular taps and dies will remove metal in the process and that is not a good thing as it will weaken the fastening capability. There are proper re-threading taps and dies designed for the purpose of thread cleaning and restoring without metal removal. These are called "thread chasers" and come in kits available from Sears and others. Everyone working on old cars should have these. Perhaps this is what you used, but failed to use the word "chaser" in your description.