Engine: Thermostat in... still running hot!

[cultural infidel]

I was wondering which thermostat is preferred for the 283 in my 65. I see that a 160 and 180 are both offered. Will it make any difference in the performance of the car?

The car has been running hot or at least high, assuming the gauge is accurate. So I was planning on replacing the t-stat and the temp sending unit.

Thoughts?

[cultural infidel]

does this look like it could be the right unit to purchase?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7012373_0075111242

[Bud]

I like to use a 180 deg thermostat in my engines and the engines I service. The 180 degree stat will bring the oil temperature up to where the contaminants in the oil will boil off. If the engine runs hot, check for crud in the radiator and block and be sure that the distributor is in good shape and the timing is set correctly. A 160 degree only prolongs the time it takes for the engine to run hot if there are other problems with the engine or cooling system. Bud

[cultural infidel]

Thanks for the heads up. I found that the 180 was the "OEM Suggested" according to Stant. How would I go about checking for crud in the Radiator and Block?

Can you tell if that is the sending unit that I need?

[Bud]

That looks like the correct sending unit, but I would still go by what is recommended in the parts book. You can run the engine until the thermostat opens and the radiator warms up. Place your hand over several spots on the front of the radiator or the back if the engine is not running to check for hot and cooler spots along the surface of the radiator. It will be warmer toward the upper part of the radiator and cooler toward the bottom. If the core is fairly clean, there won't be hot or cold spots in the center or edges. If you can get the block drain plugs out of the block, you can determine if there is crud in the block. If the drain plugs won't come out, then you have to remove a couple of freeze plugs to have a look. Bud

[sweetolbob]

CI

I agree with Bud about the sending unit and looking for hot spots. Let me make an easy suggestion to cleaning the system. Your FLAPS sells radiator cleaner/flush that you add to the cooling system to clean it out.

I'd suggest draining your system to see how bad the color is, add water and system flush and see what it looks like then. A couple of more flushes and antifreeze may be all it needs.

I've worked on a lot of SBC's over the years and if you can get the block drains out that helps. 1/4" pipe plug on each side of the lower/center of the block. I've never had one as bad as some of the folks describe their Stude blocks but I'm sure it can happen.

Bob

[SN-60]

To: cultural infidel,---(I love that name!) Back when Studebakers were still being made, most thermostat manufacturers offered a 'summer' and a 'winter' spec thermo. They did this for a reason. In the hot
summer months, it makes perfect sense to run a 160' stat. in Your engine. The only downside to doing this is that in areas where You have a change of season, such as New England, a 180'-190' would need to be
swapped in towards winter.

[cultural infidel]

Thanks for all of the input and suggestions fellas. I went out and purchased a new thermostat (the 160 as Ed suggested for the summer months) that I need to put in once I get the time to do so. My uncle suggested running without one for the rest of summer to loosen all the crud up and then doing an engine flush at the end of August. Then putting a new thermostat on then. Is this a good idea?

Hopefully I can pull the temp sending unit and take it into my NAPA and match it up to something that they have. I will be replacing the sending unit wire as well since it has been mangled over the years.

BTW - Thanks for the compliment on the name Ed. Long time Parrothead and the name has always seemed to fit me. If I could edit my name on all of my other boards, I would.

[rodnutrandy]

I have mentioned this before,but seems to help. I drilled a 1/8 inch hole in stat flange. That lets air out, and flows a little water all the time. It really slows down temperature rise and see no bad side effects. Doesn't change temp overall.

[Neal in NM]

I personally would go with the higher thermostat because of the temperature differential needed to get efficient cooling when it is hotter. Check out what I wrote a couple of years ago on a similar matter, pressurized radiator caps. Neal

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?5893-Pressurized-or-non-pressurized-radiator-cap&p=124535&viewfull=1#post124535

[raprice]

I know that you can go to NAPA, but Studebaker International has the sending units. I always prefer to support Stude vendors whenever possible. I needed to replace the sending unit in my Lark a few years ago and Stude Int'l sent the correct unit. All along, I thought my car was overheating, when the real culprit was the sending unit. Go figure.
Rog

[cultural infidel]

New tstat installed. Still running hot. I forgot to drill a hole into the stat, so I may end up doing that after we move.

I'm pulling the sending unit tonight to take to Napa tomorrow so that we can match it up. Next step is the flush.

Would a fan shroud help with the running hot issue?

My lack of free time after work is slowing my progress on the issue.

[Pat Dilling]

Next question is when does it run hot? Is it only in traffic? Running down the road, highway speeds, lower speeds? What is your outside temp when it shows hot, and how hot is hot? How long does it take it to get hot? There are a number of auto repair businesses that have coolant system flushing equipment, this will usually do a much better job and much faster than doing it your self. It more or less pressure washes the inside of your cooling system, they will put a flushing chemical in first, then do the flush. They also collect the residue which is better than letting it run down your driveway/gutter.

Pat

[cultural infidel]

Next question is when does it run hot? Is it only in traffic? Running down the road, highway speeds, lower speeds? What is your outside temp when it shows hot, and how hot is hot? How long does it take it to get hot? There are a number of auto repair businesses that have coolant system flushing equipment, this will usually do a much better job and much faster than doing it your self. It more or less pressure washes the inside of your cooling system, they will put a flushing chemical in first, then do the flush. They also collect the residue which is better than letting it run down your driveway/gutter.

Pat

Pat -
It runs hot the longer I drive it. It does get hotter quicker in stop n go traffic. It usually is fairly hot by the time that I get to work in the morning (~14 miles). By the time I get home at night it is pipin hot. The over-flow hose was spraying a bit tonight when I got home. One thing that drives me nuts is the Temp Gauge doesnt show actual temps, so I dont know exactly how hot it is getting..... the needle keeps on rising near the upper end! I plan to have someone else do the flush so that I know it is done properly.

Just went to pull my sending unit and most of it appears to be missing or rusted away! Hard to match something up when most of it is missing! I hope the missing pieces have disintegrated into nothing and haven't caused havoc to the internals.

[Bud]

I would recommend doing a test for a combustion leak into the cooling system. Most radiator shops can do that for you. I'm thinking that you have a leaky head gasket or a crack in either the block or a head which will cause the problems you are having. Bud