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The camshaft break-in run on my rebuilt 259 had a couple of glitches

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  • Engine: The camshaft break-in run on my rebuilt 259 had a couple of glitches

    Ladies and Gentlemen:



    Within a minute or so the car jerked foreword about 3 inches. I think the slack in the parking pawl was being taken up but it dawned on me that I should put some 4x6s in front of the rear wheels. The brake peddle is right there in case it slipped out of park but I was doing a mini-look about with the camcorder trying to see if everything was OK. Some smoke started to roll but it was oil or something burning off the heads and soon went away. The oil pressure on the gage was showing 40psi. At the same time the pressure on the instrument cluster oil gage was showing 45 or so.

    I started off without the radiator cap on and when I saw coolant running through the radiator I knew the thermostat had opened. I checked the temperature gage in the cluster and it read nothing. I had forgotten to hook the wires up so quickly hooked the hot wire and the sending unit wire to the gage and it was at the start of the normal range. I had tested the gage and sending unit in the house with a pan of water and a candy thermometer to see how they worked. The start of the normal range is about 175 degrees and since the thermostat was a 170 degree this was checking out OK.

    Then I saw an oil drip that was coming out of the valley cover area on the right rear of the engine. Camcorder in hand I traced it down to the partial flow oil filter. It was a pretty steady drip. I checked the clock and it had been running about 8 minutes. At the twelve minute mark I bumped the engine on up to 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. The temperature gage was showing about 185 and oil was still at 40psi. I put the radiator cap on to allow it to build some pressure. I was cam cording quite a bit so that I could go back and re-watch everything later.



    The next day I called Don Holt, owner of H&H Radiator here in Tulsa, and he told me it sounded like my radiator cap was not holding at least 14-15psi. I went out and found that the radiator cap was a 7 pound cap. I ordered up a 13 pound cap which hopefully will take care of that situation.

    Next, I got on the SDC forum and researched the partial flow oil filter. The conclusion on it as well as in the December, 2011 Turning Wheels magazine was that there needs to be a restrictor someplace in the line between the head and the filter. Thank you, Bob Palma and Gary Ash for the excellent articles and responses to the forum. I went out and took the filter and the lines off and there was no restriction. The general consensus was that the restrictor should be about .045 in diameter which would allow about one quart per minute to flow through the filter at 40psi. The 1/8 NPT 90 degree fitting had a hole that was about .110 in diameter. I jury-rigged a plug in the fitting and drilled it with a 3/64 (.047) drill bit. I then secured it in the fitting with J-B Weld. After it set up I re-drilled the hole out. The area of this smaller hole is about 1/6 of the larger one and I am hoping that this restriction will raise the oil pressure at idle as well as not overwhelming the filter.

    I drained the oil and changed the filter. The oil that came out of it was darker than I had expected. I took the valve covers off and could tell that all the rocker arms were getting oiled. I decided to re-torque the head bolts. I am glad that I did. I hope I was doing it right. I took the break over bar and loosened each a quarter to half a turn and then re-torqued to 65 ft lbs. About half of them re-torqued to about where they were initially. The others took at least another quarter of a turn beyond where they had been to get to the 65 ft lbs. While I had the valve covers off I set the valve lash again. All were within a couple thousandths of what I had shot for. That was a cold .026 on the intakes and .027 on the exhaust.

    I do not have a 6 volt dwell and tachometer meter so the engine speeds I stated are best guesses. I read online where a 12 volt dwell can be hooked up using my riding mower 12 volt battery and work on the 6 volt engine. I am hoping that is the case so that the next time the engine is started I can set the idle and check the dwell. I am feeling pretty good about everything right now. I think the boiling over and low oil pressure can be corrected with the steps that I have taken.

    Charlie D.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Glad you found the cause and got it fixed. Scary to have a fresh engine's pressure drop like that. I hope everything else goes well.
    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

    Comment


    • #3
      I think you did just fine, Charlie. The few minor glitches you experienced are pretty normal on a new engine start up...at least they are for me. I like the procedure you followed to break in the cam and to closely watch all functions.

      My personal opinion is that with the engine barely ticking over, that 0 on the gauge isn't a bad thing...especially with no restrictor in the oil filter. Next time you start it, set the idle and idle mixture and check the gauge again at a more normal idle and with the restrictor.

      You shouldn't need more than that 7 pound cap. I believe that is what Studebaker specified in 55. A pressurized system keeps the water from boiling at the normal 212F (coolant boils at an even hotter temp). At 180-190F you haven't even reached the normal boiling temp let alone that that would be reached with 7 pounds of pressure. All cars when run up to temp and then shut off will "spike" the temp somewhat since the water is no longer circulating and the coolant will expand a little further. If your cap is in good working order and was on tightly, then it would only have "burped" if the radiator was over filled. On a system without an overflow tank, there needs to be a pretty good air space between the filler neck and the water level to allow for coolant expansion.

      Congrats!
      Dick Steinkamp
      Bellingham, WA

      Comment


      • #4
        Where did you come up with those "camshaft break-in" procedures? What kind of camshaft do you have?

        Comment


        • #5
          That cam break in proceedure is a new one to me. I make sure that I have the cam and lifters coated really well with Isky cam lube or equivilant and have a high ZDDP oil in the pan before starting a fresh engine. I've always brought the engine up to 1500 to 1800 rpm for a few minutes and have never had a cam failure. You need around an .045 restrictor in the inlet side of the oil filter to reduce oil flow to the filter, but you still shouldn't have 0 psi oil pressure at idle even without the restrictor and SAE 30 or 15W-40 in the pan. I use a 7 psi pressure cap and a 180 deg thermostat on all of the Studebakers I own or service including my Avanti without any problems. I suspect you may have excessive bearing clearances or a problem with the oil pump giving you the low pressure indication. Even with a bypass filter, an engine with the proper bearing clearances will hold around 15 to 20 psi hot at idle. Bud

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Bud View Post
            That cam break in proceedure is a new one to me. I make sure that I have the cam and lifters coated really well with Isky cam lube or equivilant and have a high ZDDP oil in the pan before starting a fresh engine. I've always brought the engine up to 1500 to 1800 rpm for a few minutes and have never had a cam failure.
            I think you have been lucky. Google "Cam break in procedure". You'll get a bunch of hits that essentially say this...

            "Start the engine and immediately bring to 2,500 rpm. Timing should be adjusted, as closely as possible, to reduce excessive heat or load during break-in. Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow acceleration/deceleration cycle. During this time, be sure to check for any leaks and check out any unusual noises. If something doesn't sound right, shut the engine off and check out the source of the noise. Upon restart, resume the high idle speed cycling. Continue the varying "break-in" speed for 20 - 30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation to properly mate each lifter to its lobe. Should the engine need to be shut down for any reason, upon re-start it should be immediately brought back to 3000 rpm and the break-in continued for a total run time of 20 - 30 minutes."

            Flat tappet break in procedure
            Dick Steinkamp
            Bellingham, WA

            Comment


            • #7
              IIRC the purpose of the initial cam start up procedure is to initiate a low tech machining/polishing operation to optimize the surface contact of the cam lobes and lifter faces. The process needs a lot of lubrication to prevent gauling and low enough pressures and heat to prevent the same on the high RPM side.

              Most cams that I have installed over the years (Comp, Wieand, Epson, Linuati) seem to like the RPM varied over the 2000 - 2500 range for 30 or so minutes. Most of these have been in SBC's as you well know. The cam manufactures explanations usually are that at those RPMs you have plenty of lubrication to allow the process to proceed well without causing other issues due to higher RPMs.

              I'm annul about following the cam makers recommendations to the letter because that's me and I've never had a cam failure. But my guess is that in the engines that we are talking about here with low spring pressures and low cam lift, if one were to get somewhat outside that range and not achieve perfection in the surface mating during the initial break in, the first hour or so of driving would probably complete the process as most of us don't tend to put extreme demands on a newly rebuilt engine.

              Try not doing the optimum break in with a 350 HP 327 SBC or a newly rebuilt R2 and you'll probably be doing it again in short order. That's why most manufactures recommend breaking in big HP double spring headed engines with less spring pressure that they will eventually run.

              Not trying to suggest that any less than optimum break in should be done but just trying to point out that most Studebakers, and for that matter other MFG's engines of that era, should tolerate a reasonable range of procedures as long as the oil flow is sufficient to keep bad things from happening and sufficient time at reasonable rpms is allowed before leaning on the new engine.

              Bob

              Comment


              • #8
                I think you have been lucky. Google "Cam break in procedure". You'll get a bunch of hits that essentially say this...
                As usual, Dick is correct, as far as he goes with the recommendation. FWIW, most of the cam break in procedures one will find on the google search are for real high performance engines running real high spring pressures and agressive cam profiles. Yes, with these, a break in procedure is needed.

                None of the above applies to the the stock Stude cam and springs. The limber-neck springs don't have enough pressure to hurt a cam. Even the R1/R2 springs aren't a high performance spring by today's standards. Also, the stock Studebaker cam profile is a slow opening, low lift, low intensity design, all the better to run 200,000 miles without wear. For stock applications, Bud's proceedure should be enough:

                I make sure that I have the cam and lifters coated really well with Isky cam lube or equivilant and have a high ZDDP oil in the pan before starting a fresh engine. I've always brought the engine up to 1500 to 1800 rpm for a few minutes and have never had a cam failure.
                For those building real high performance engines, follow your cam manufacturers recommendations.

                jack vines
                PackardV8

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just curious....at what point does an engine or cam become "real"???
                  Bez Auto Alchemy
                  573-318-8948
                  http://bezautoalchemy.com


                  "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Does anyone know what run-in procedures were used at the Stude Corp factory?

                    Joe H

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I am pretty happy about the restart of the engine last night. I let it warm up at about 1,500 rpm until it was at 180-185 degrees then let it idle back to about where it was the other night. The oil pressure was at 21 psi versus “0”. At about 1,500 rpm after warming up it was at 42 psi. No oil leak at the filter. I had added a gallon of antifreeze and this time filled the radiator less full and there was no boiling over with the 7 pound cap.

                      I pushed on the brake pedal and shifted the DG 250M into reverse and let the car idle back 5-6 feet. Than into drive and brought it up to the chocks. I did it again but came forward in low. I hope it allowed fluid to get to all the parts that it needs to.

                      After a couple of restarts, I think the distributor is set pretty close to where it should be. Bob Canada, president of the NE Oklahoma chapter, is going to bring a 60s vintage engine analyzer over tomorrow. It is powered by 110 volts so I hope it will allow me to set the dwell, timing, and idle speed on my ’55 6 volt President State Sedan.

                      I pretty well have the chassis, brake system, engine and tranny done and can shift gears to the body. I have received outstanding help from the forum members and want to express my appreciation.

                      Thank you,
                      Charlie D.

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