Frame / Springs: anybody ever install rear end below springs, 50 starlight

[50pete]

I'd like to raise the rear end without replacing the springs(budget) thinking about moving the rear end
below the springs, any thoughts? got the brakes off now, would be the time to do it.

[PackardV8]

Yes, it can be done by welding new spring perches on top of the axle tubes.

No, not really a good idea. Changes the front suspension caster, changes the driveshaft U-joint angle, transfers more load to the front brakes and springs.

Maybe, figure out are your rear springs sagging?

jack vines

[52-fan]

What he said. You will be happier with the springs replaced or repaired as needed.

[Peanut]

Don't take these comments as criticisms of modified Studes. As you may already know, Studebaker owners are happy to include the custom/modified crowd. If you want to change the geometry of your suspension, these recommendations are intended to offer helpful advice that will leave you with a safe, reliable ride!

[K-Hawk]

I've done Ray Fichthorn's treatment to three cars, a 55 President, 64 Hawk and an Avanti. It works!

Avanti

http://www.studebaker-info.org/rearsprings1.html

GT HAwk

http://www.studebaker-info.org/64v24.../rs270509.html

Ray's own words...

http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/RRsprings.txt

The 46 year old springs were showing their age. There wasn't any problem with the ride, but the look wasn't right.
The task is pretty straight forward, just disassemble everything and add a leaf. Getting to the part about dissassembling is a bit of exercise.

First thing I do is jack up by the axle and block up the frame

Since the springs are mounted non-symmetrically, you can spot another jack in the middle to support the spring, then remove the shock, sway bar and lower spring retainer plate

After the retainer plate is removed, lower the jack and the spring will relax down about 2-3 inches. At this point you have to remove the nut on the bottom of the spring pack. This spring locating bolt has a rounded head to center itself in the axle perch. It cannot be reused, since you now need a longer bolt, so, if necessary, you can destroy it to remove it.
At this point, removing the bolt will allow the 2 bottom leaves to drop off. Now, take the new leaf and bolt it in, making it #3 from the bottom. The top leaves are clamped together. Note that the bolt is off center from the middle of the spring. This is why youDON'T CUT the helper leaf until you mark it after it's inserted in the pack. The section behind the bolt is longer than the part in front of the bolt. I made this set about 28". The longer the leaf, the higher the car will ride. I don't have any way to judge where it will wind up, so the new leaf was a bit conservative.
Since you're adding a leaf (1/4"), a new, longer, grade 8 bolt is needed and you have to grind the head round. The head will be too short to fit through the pad and into the axle perch, so you have to shim the bolt head higher. This can be done using a piece of thick wall tubing, cut to fit (1/4") or a large nut, rounded to match the size of the bolt head. The axle perch hole is 1/2"-5/8" in diameter.

1557637 M 1953 - Standard springs for 63/64 V & S

Insert the new leaf, clamp the pack and install the new bolt. There are plastic spring sliders in these springs. I made an extra slider from the plastic top of a 5 gal paint bucket.

After the leaf is cut to fit and re-inserted into the sheaf, jack up the pack again and reinstall isolator pad and the retainer plate. If the isolator pads are pretty gnarled up and give some problem fitting back, use a metal shear and cut 1/4" off each side, so they will clear the U-bolts and not interfere. If you're wondering, the axle U-bolts do not need to be changed. The retainer plate nuts will snug up to the tip of the U-bolts.
Clean off all the hardware before reattaching and use RED lok-tite on the nuts.

[Flashback]

Just restack the springs, and add a S-10 pickup spring leaf. The longest leaf from the S--10. NOT the main leaf. Put it in below your main leaf on Stude. and then put ALL your original leaves back in the stack. S-10 years range from 98-2000, maybe above. This is CASO cheap and easy.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Have done this a bunch of times...
Only tidbit I can add (besides safely using jackstands and C-clamps) is.....
Be prepared to have to cut the center bolt holding the springs together.
It will be rusty and won't turn easily, if at all.
Clamp your spring pack with a big C-clamp.
Cut the center bolt.
Unscrew the C-clamp.
Insert leaves in the stack (trim to length for interim sizes)
Insert new longer center bolt (a spring shop can sell you a l o n g replacement bolt, as well as longer u-bolts).
Screw the C-clamp until you can get the nut started.
Tighten it all up.
Install your new, longer, u-bolts.
Drive with impunity.
HTIH
Jeff

[FlatheadGeo]

"Drive with impunity." Jeff, I like that statement!! Would make a great bumper sticker with a Stude Wheel logo on it!