Frame / Springs: Mystified.. help please

[lark-o-rama]

In the process of putting my suspension back together on my 60' Lark. I am installing the lower outer pin's bushings. I've prelubed the bushings with grease, installed the spreader tool, (.015) I even watched my dial indicator as I spread the control arm out. I tightened up the caps, 1/3 turn each side, tightened both sides up evenly. Once both caps were tight, I torqued to 65lbs and removed the spreader tool.

The manual says the lower support "Should move freely" Well, mine does, but not by hand, with a cheater pipe. I am under the impression that I should be able to move the lower support BY HAND once its tightened.. correct? If so, what step am I missing?

Thank you all.

[Dougie]

67 views and no replies. Sounds like you're not the only one who is mystified!

[kmac530]

1 more view here...a reply, but no help to offer. I have a straight axle

[cliffh]

The spreader tool is essential on new control arms because they don't yet have threads for the outer bushings. The bushings cut the threads as they are screwed in. The spreader tool gets the threads in the right place so that the inner pin doesn't bind. On a rebuild, the threads are already there so all the spreader tool does is just get the bushing started into the threads. If the threads are a little bit off, the bushing is hard to turn on the pin. If it were possible to force the bushing to cut new threads in a used control arm, I think it would probably strip out and ruin the control arm. Someone here on the forum suggested wacking it with a hammer to spread the ears apart a bit more (assuming they need to be further apart and not closer together). I tried the hammer trick and the control arm ear just seemed to bounce back to where it was.

I don't claim to be an expert. I have only installed new bushings and pins on one Studebaker and on both sides the upper pins turned free and the lower pins were more or less stiff to turn. I had the lower support on the kingpin and was using it as a lever. I assume they left the factory that way and lasted a long time before I got them so I went ahead and put it back together. Only two of the old pins were badly worn and I can't remember if they were upper pins or lower.

[rusty nut garage]

I've done several front end rebuilds. I recall that all of them I've done have been tight, they would move but not by hand. I usually put the pin in a vice and swing the control arm up and down to make sure its not binding and call it good.

In the process of putting my suspension back together on my 60' Lark. I am installing the lower outer pin's bushings. I've prelubed the bushings with grease, installed the spreader tool, (.015) I even watched my dial indicator as I spread the control arm out. I tightened up the caps, 1/3 turn each side, tightened both sides up evenly. Once both caps were tight, I torqued to 65lbs and removed the spreader tool.

The manual says the lower support "Should move freely" Well, mine does, but not by hand, with a cheater pipe. I am under the impression that I should be able to move the lower support BY HAND once its tightened.. correct? If so, what step am I missing?

Thank you all.

[lark-o-rama]

Thanks for the reply.. appreciate the help.

[Kurt]

When I did mine, I too thought they were too stiff after following the shop manual procedure. So I went a to .016 with my spreader tool and the pins would then turn by hand. You might try .014 or .016 to see if it makes any difference. I don't believe you need a cheater pipe. Something still is not quite right.

[Jeff_H]

I'd pre-assembled the new pins and bushings to see how tight they were before installing in the car. Thats when I found that some of the threads on the pins were dinged up from rough handling. A small file worked to clean up the damaged spots so the pin would thread in/out of the bushing easily.

After install in the car, I did note that the movement was not super loose but also not requiring any excessive use of prybars, etc to force it.

If the threads on yours are dinged up its going to be a pain now to take it all apart to look

[(S)]

I found that even with the spreader tool, the ends of the A Arms were bending a bit so I made a piece of steel to put in there and it worked. I used wire and went through the shaft holes, around my metal to keep it from spitting out. a bit of greese during assembly is not a bad idea either.

I used a Mic the whole time, measuring before , during and after.

[63 R2 Hawk]

I'm subscribing to this thread since I may be embarking on a similar journey, my pins etc are fine but the grease seals are damaged and need to be replaced. Looks like I'm going to have to disassemble pins and bushings just to replace the $1.00 grease seals while I'm replacing the king pin bushings.... : ( I have to admit, I don't really understand how the front suspension works on these cars!

[lark-o-rama]

I found that even with the spreader tool, the ends of the A Arms were bending a bit so I made a piece of steel to put in there and it worked. I used wire and went through the shaft holes, around my metal to keep it from spitting out. a bit of greese during assembly is not a bad idea either.

I used a Mic the whole time, measuring before , during and after.

Was the steel to spread the load from the spreader tool? And the wire held it in place?

[lark-o-rama]

I'm subscribing to this thread since I may be embarking on a similar journey, my pins etc are fine but the grease seals are damaged and need to be replaced. Looks like I'm going to have to disassemble pins and bushings just to replace the $1.00 grease seals while I'm replacing the king pin bushings.... : ( I have to admit, I don't really understand how the front suspension works on these cars!

I didn't either but once you start taking it apart, you will see. I prefer ball joints as this was my first attempt at king pins..
Dave~

[lark-o-rama]

I'd pre-assembled the new pins and bushings to see how tight they were before installing in the car. Thats when I found that some of the threads on the pins were dinged up from rough handling. A small file worked to clean up the damaged spots so the pin would thread in/out of the bushing easily.

After install in the car, I did note that the movement was not super loose but also not requiring any excessive use of prybars, etc to force it.

If the threads on yours are dinged up its going to be a pain now to take it all apart to look

Well, the pass side lwr control arm is on my work bench, i've just started the reassembly.. my fear is taking this thing apart to many times. '
Dave~

[lark-o-rama]

I seem to mystify often.. LOL!

[(S)]

These are the 2 for the bushing install, The other one for the pins is just like it, it goes oposite of the spreader tool, I cut it a tad long, and ground it down until I could just tap it in place with a hammer. I used 2 pieces of wire so it did not spit it out when you torque to pins. If they do not remove easily, you check your measurements to be sure you did not bend the arm. The force it takes to torque these is enough to bend the arm. Same with pushing in the bushings. These are 'L' channel