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1951 windshield stainless trim installation

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  • Body / Glass: 1951 windshield stainless trim installation

    After installing new windshield rubber on a '51 coupe, has anyone tried replacing the stainless trim by installing the trim BEFORE you install the windshield. In other words, install the stainless trim into the groove in the rubber then push the windshield into place. Possibly another person could be outside the car applying pressure to the stainless to be sure it remains in place. Appears it would be easier to install the stainless into the rubber if the windshield was not present taking up all of the available working space. Just a thought!!!!

    Charlie Attaway
    Oxford, GA

  • #2
    It would work if the windshield could be installed from the outside in, as were the 1953 and up models.
    If you attempt to re-install your windshield, or back light, from the inside of the car, as it must be done, you will be convinced the glass is too large and not the original. Add the trim before install and break the glass.

    If you can accomplish it, carefully record your procedure to share.
    Last edited by rockne10; 02-15-2012, 07:59 PM.
    Brad Johnson,
    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
    '56 Sky Hawk in process

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    • #3
      I also would think rubber on the glass then ss trim into rubber, then both onto car ?
      Right?

      Dean.

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      • #4
        If its true inside out on the glass that changes everything.
        Its been a while since I took mine out.

        Dean.

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        • #5
          Brad,
          Thanks for your response. If I understand what you're saying, if the stainless is installed in the rubber BEFORE the glass, the stainless doesn't allow the rubber to stretch enough to get the glass into place and this will cause the glass to break????? I do know that the glass must be installed from INSIDE the car.

          Charlie Attaway
          Oxford, GA

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          • #6
            Dean,
            Thanks for your response. It is true that the windshield and rear glass must be installed from inside the car. I am not looking forward to this step of restoration as this is a Starlight Coupe with 4 pieces of rear glass. That means 4 times the problem over installing the rear glass in a sedan.

            Charlie Attaway
            Oxford, GA

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            • #7
              cvytrk, I'm afraid this topic comes up on occasion, and i myself have had the same struggle. I did NOT try installing the trim before glass install. Because you are not supposed to do it that way for your year car.
              I might have tried it had I known what an impossible task installing the trim after was going to be. I'm afriad it won't work, but you might carefully try it.

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              • #8
                Dan,
                Thanks for your response. Considering all the problems everyone is having installing windshield stainless, it appears I need to solve this issue and make and sale videos of the process. I'm in need of additional funds for the '51 Starlight restoration. You have to wonder how the people in South Bend performed this task on a moving assembly line in a matter of minutes.

                Charlie Attaway
                Oxford, GA

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                • #9
                  It would indeed be interesting to know how they did the install on the assembly line. I am also still wrestling with how to install the stainless reveal on my 52 windshield.
                  Frank van Doorn
                  Omaha, Ne.
                  1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                  1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                  1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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                  • #10
                    I figured there has to be a better way to do this so I tried a lot of different approaches.
                    I did try to install the stainless on mine before putting the windshield in. I couldn't get it to hold in the rubber.
                    I tried installing the rubber in the body then putting the stainless in, then the windshield but couldn't hold everything together and ended up with a cracked windshield.
                    I finally went ahead and did it as the shop manual says and with much difficulty managed to get the moulding in around the cracked windsield but with scratched paint. I didn't have an assistant which would have helped. I ended up using c-clamps along the a-pillars to hold it in position as I worked the rubber around the corners.
                    I started in the middle at the bottom and worked around the passenger side first, then did the drivers side. I did this over a period of several weeks, an hour or so at a time. I had a big piece of foam and pads on the hood so I could sit on it for better leverage. Sometimes I lost ground and sometimes I just made a couple of inches, but eventually I got it. I used a lot of different shaped tools to work the rubber around the stainless as I pulled the cords along. The little bent and rounded screwdrivers were a lot of help. So was the seal removal hook.
                    Let us know if you come up with a better system since I am not looking forward to replacing the cracked windshield.
                    Rob

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                    • #11
                      I recently read in a factory "time and procedure" book for 1952, that the recommended procedure is to install the windshield without the trim, and to then force rope of a specified thickness into the trim channel with a tapered piece of wood. Then the rope is pulled out as you press in the trim and seat it with taps of a rubber mallet (if I remember this correctly). I no longer have that book but I'm sure there are copies in the archives that could provide the specific detailed instruction.

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                      • #12
                        Rob,
                        Thank you for your input. At this point it appears everyone continues to struggle with this operation and if they succeed it is because they developed their own technique and tools. This is my first attempt at this so I don't have any failed or successful methods. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of patience with something like this so it would probably be best that I not attempt it. I could probably call 50 auto & rod glass shops here in the Atlanta area and find that not one of them had ever installed a piece of Stude glass. Looks as if I'm going to have to learn PATIENCE first!!!!!

                        Charlie Attaway
                        Oxford, GA

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                        • #13
                          WCP,
                          Thank you for that information. Now that sounds like a method that may work. Believe me, if I can perform this install in a timely manner and without throwing tools across the shop, I will let everyone know how I did it.

                          Charlie Attaway
                          Oxford, GA

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                          • #14
                            cvytrk, try to get a copy of that procedure. As i recall, it specified a fairly substantial rope thickness, maybe 5/16" or 3/8" but I would go with what the factory recommended. I think they suggested starting at the top, middle and working around and back to the top middle.

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                            • #15
                              If you have not seen the older post, I did get my windshield stainless installed. Not for faint of heart though.

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