Frame / Springs: I now need rear leaf springs

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

Hi All it's been a while.

So I was driving my car today I heard a POP then a bit later POP! then a bit later POP!!! So in cutting my way to work short, I drove a few blocks and parked at home to confirm my thoughts I broke about 3 or 4 leaves on the passenger side of my car.

Now the question is I would like to lower my car about 3" over all but can I do this in just the rear untill I get the front springs done as well? (I know tail draggier I think are cool too.)

Can it be done with just the leaf springs?
Would I be better off Just getting the replacement springs and fender skirts and dropping the front end?
Can i still get the tire off if I do that?
And what or who is my best option for getting new springs for the car?

BTW no I dont want air bags or air shocks in the back. I do want to keep it almost all original parts Just cooler looking.

Please help!

[rockne10]

Edsel,
In a town the size of Minneapolis I would think there should be a suspension specialty shop. We have one in central Pa, equally distant from nowhere. If you can find your standard sixty or seventy-year-old suspension head I would think he/she would love to exercise his/her art and demonstrate the skills that used to be required to satisfy a customer's needs.
Not the answer you wanted and, maybe all the old Swedish tinkerers are gone. Any good blacksmith--my Grandad for instance, (may he RIP).
There are still folks with the skills and experience. Finding them...there's the rub.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

Oh I know there are a few great spring makers here in Minneapolis i just was mainly looking for is is [possible to drop it with out any real major customizing for the rear.

[showbizkid]

I don't have any experience with your year, but conceptually it's pretty simple. You use the old customizer's trick of lowering blocks in the rear and voila! Lowered rear end.

Note that this will necessitate re-aligning the front suspension, as the altered angle will cause the camber/caster of the front wheels to be off, making your steering harder until you get it readjusted.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

I don't have any experience with your year, but conceptually it's pretty simple. You use the old customizer's trick of lowering blocks in the rear and voila! Lowered rear end.

Note that this will necessitate re-aligning the front suspension, as the altered angle will cause the camber/caster of the front wheels to be off, making your steering harder until you get it readjusted.

True i can do that but has any one done that. To take the tires off the rear you have to do a body lift to get the tires off the drums. How will this be affected when lowering the rear?

[unclemiltie]

Right before Sasco went out of business, I was looking at rear springs there and saw some that looked like 50 commander. They did not have these in their inventory. The part number was not in the parts manual nor in their inventory. Dave took me to the pattern room, and sure enough, they were made for 50 commanders. Why they had a different part number is unknown. I bought one of the 3 pairs. SI may still have another pair as I think they had all springs inventoried when they had the open house.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

Wow Thanks for the tip!.

Right before Sasco went out of business, I was looking at rear springs there and saw some that looked like 50 commander. They did not have these in their inventory. The part number was not in the parts manual nor in their inventory. Dave took me to the pattern room, and sure enough, they were made for 50 commanders. Why they had a different part number is unknown. I bought one of the 3 pairs. SI may still have another pair as I think they had all springs inventoried when they had the open house.

[pgothard]

FWIW - Another option would be that Eaton Detroit Spring will fab you a set of rears from their archive of Stude factory specs AND give you the option of specifying what you want the final ride-height to be (relative to factory). I got my set of '53 coupe springs from them. Fit was perfect and the non-factory ride-height was as I asked. They have a website, of course.

--Paul

[ROADRACELARK]

Just more food for thought....... If you had new springs made up to factory specs, that made the car sit at its correct ride height, you could easily use lowering blocks to acheive the ride height you currently desire. In the event you might need to sell the car, you have the ability to easily return it to its correct, original ride height. Again, food for thought. Regarding tire removal, lowering the rear will make it worse! You could use a light weight aluminum floor jack, ahead of the spring on the frame. That should allow the tire/wheel assembly come out from under the fender as it would if you used the bumper jack. Make sure you carry a wheel chock in the trunk. Hope this helps.

Dan Miller
Auburn, GA

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

This make sense to me.

Thanks Paul!!!!

FWIW - Another option would be that Eaton Detroit Spring will fab you a set of rears from their archive of Stude factory specs AND give you the option of specifying what you want the final ride-height to be (relative to factory). I got my set of '53 coupe springs from them. Fit was perfect and the non-factory ride-height was as I asked. They have a website, of course.

--Paul

[sweetolbob]

This make sense to me.

Thanks Paul!!!!

Edsel

If you decide to go with OEM style springs, shop around your community at several of the truck spring specialists. You may be pleasantly surprised at the price of quality US made springs they can order directly. My local shop called their supplier and they had a listing for Avanti's. They were substantially less than Eaton and were shipped in with a standard order. As I said, US made and fit like OEM. Also my county has under 100,000 residents so your area should be even better to find what you want.

Bob

[royvaldez]

I have a pair of springs for your car. I am parting out aq 50 Commander 4 door right now. Just take and have re arched.

[jclary]

BTW no I dont want air bags or air shocks in the back. I do want to keep it almost all original parts Just cooler looking.

Please help!

OK, ol' Tattoo breath...I selectively edited your first post. You already have one of the "Coolest" rides ever. Messing with the springs and stance might make it look different...but it will never make it "cooler."

What ever you do, good luck with it and keep us informed on how it works out.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

Thanks Bob And John!
Does any one have a good Idea on how to lower it in the rear and still be able to chance the tire when needed?

Roy I would do that for just about any thing else for the car but i do only want to do this once and with the best thing I can do for the car. I would replace just about anything used except for the one thing I keep between me the car and the road. To me the ride is too important to just replace with used parts. I will still get intouch with you about that front bat wing when i am ready to replace it in my car Roy.

[sweetolbob]

Thanks Bob And John!
Does any one have a good Idea on how to lower it in the rear and still be able to chance the tire when needed.

A smart arse would say about 100 lbs of cement blocks per inch of drop!

But if you know someone that has or you have an Nascar style jack, lift the car by the frame until the wheels clear the ground and see if you have 3 inches or more of clearance to change the tire. If so, install the lowering blocks and ride happily. HF sells some nice ones for cheap. I'm not recommending this and you also need to block the front wheels well. But it's close to the same thing you would do with a bumper jack.

If not, you are in the market for air bags.

Bob