Engine: "Bench test" an engine

[JimC]

Guys with some mechanical know-how, I'm curious about something. When we first pulled the Lark from the field, I had enough brains to have a battery with me (but not enough to have any starter fluid), and sure enough, the motor was free and turned over like it was just driven the day before. Now that I'm in the deconstruction phase, I'm thinking about the motor, and wondering if there's an easy way to bench test the thing without completely re-connecting the wiring harness, etc... You say a wise man would have tested the motor before deconstruction? True, but few would call me wise. If I'm doing a complete restoration I should probably rebuild the motor anyway, but if it runs well, there are certainly other areas I can pour funds into.

Thanks!

[Mike Van Veghten]

Of course, you can "bench" test any engine.
But everything the engine needs to be hooked up....needs to be hooked up... just like when it's between the fenders...!

The engine needs -
12 volts to the ignition system
12 volts to the starter
fuel to the carburetor
a way to manipulate the throttle
and last but not least...good support so it doesn't fall over...!

Mike

[PackardV8]

All the electrical an engine needs to run is at least 6 or 8 continuous volts to the coil and a ground back to the battery. All it needs to start is temporary 12 volts and a ground to the starter via jumper cables.

Running an engine on a stand really requires a radiator, oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge,

You didn't ask, but a compression test and a leakdown test will tell you more about the condition of the rings and valves than starting and running an engine on a stand. Running will show the oil pressure and any untoward noises.

Even if it runs perfectly, replace the valve stem seals while you can get to them.

jack vines