Engine: R1 R2 R3 ????? What's it all about Alfie?

[Farrier1951]

OK so I admit I am a newbie and trying to learn all I can. So what the heck are the terms
R1, R2, R3 all about? Are we talking about performance, displacement, compression ratio, piston shape, gearing intake exhaust, or all the above? Not clear to me. My 62 GT Hawk has a 289 with a four barrel carb and a four speed transmission. So what the heck are we talking about here? Help an old guy out here would ya?

[sals54]

As you are a newbie, I'll give you the short story on the R1 R2 R3. Someone else will surely correct me or pour more info onto this pile. All are based on the 289.
R1 is a high compression, about 10:1, version of the standard 289 with more cam for increased horsepower. 240 HP
R2 is a 9:1 compression version which is also equipped with a paxton supercharger. 290 HP
R3 is a special engineered version of the R2 which includes boring out to 304 cu in, special heads with larger ports and valves and a pressure box around the carburetor which allows slightly more supercharger boost and better breathing. 335 HP
The horsepower numbers are speculative since car companies at the time were devious at best with respect to the accuracy of the horsepower figures they published.
I know, for instance, that the true R3 horsepower figures are far greater than 335. An R3 was dyno tested in recent years and found to have significantly more power. I think it was near 400. Someone will surely correct me on this.
I am currently running an R1 with a 4 speed in my 54 Coupe.

[BobPalma]

Good summary, Sal.

Two refinements / additions:

1. Studebaker's official horsepower rating for the R2 was 289. That 290 figure has been repeated over and over, and I do not know where it originated. But it didn't originate in South Bend; Studebaker rated the R2 at 289 horsepower.

2. The dyno report you are thinking of is on Page 9 of the November 2004 Turning Wheels. The Plain Brown Wrapper recorded 365 horsepower @ 5895 RPM on the dyno, measured at the rear wheels, which means after power loss through the entire drivetrain. Further, that was with the air cleaner installed and full, street-legal exhaust with conventional mufflers, out to the rear of the car.

Farrier1951: If you are interested in a good summary of Studebaker high-performance cars, order a back issue of the February 2009 Collectible Automobile magazine. Therein is my feature-length article, High-Performance Studebakers of the 50s and 60s.

AFAIK, all questions a "newbie" would have are answered in the article. BP

[Farrier1951]

Thanks guys and I will order that issue. Look forward to the education. So...how does one identify one of these engines? Serial numbers? Hardware? My 62 GT is a 289, four barrel with a four speed. If an R1 has that kind of compression what kind of fuel must it eat to run correctly? Premium? Octqane boosters and lead additives? Thanks guys for the informatiion!

[BobPalma]

Thanks guys and I will order that issue. Look forward to the education. So...how does one identify one of these engines? Serial numbers? Hardware? My 62 GT is a 289, four barrel with a four speed. If an R1 has that kind of compression what kind of fuel must it eat to run correctly? Premium? Octqane boosters and lead additives? Thanks guys for the informatiion!

Farrier: The sure-fire way to identify an R-series engine is by the engine's (not the car's) serial number. All 1953 and newer V-8s have their engine number stamped (not a raised casting number, but a stamping) on a machined pad at the front top left (driver side) of the engine block. Easily visible on your car, but you'll likely have to wipe off some dirt to see it.

If your car has its original engine, the first digit of the stamped number will be the letter P.

R-series engine numbers begin with either a JT (R1) or JTS (R2) if installed in a Lark or Hawk. If in an Avanti, the first digits will be R or RS.

Proper fuel for an R1 today is dicey. You do need the best premium you can buy, and a lead substitute isn't a bad idea. But if your Hawk is a '62 and has its original engine, you needn't worry about such things. It will do well on regular gas, just like it did when it was new. (If you are going to run it hard up through the gears from time to time, I'd use lead substitute if it was mine, and mid-range 89 octane gasoline.) BP

[Farrier1951]

Man o man I don't know what we new guys would do without the help of you fellas that have been there and done that! Thanks again Bob. Looking forward to reading your article.
Jim