From Woody--
I should be sending your ignition lock soon. I want you to know that
the first two pins were really worn and when I went to make a key for
the lock, the next time I tried the key, the key didn't work. I noticed
that each time the key was inserted into the it would raise the first
two pins a different height depending on where the key hit the worn
pins. There was no way of telling what the original lock pin lengths
were.
After discovering that the lock was worn out, I rebuilt the lock using
new upper and lower pins and new copper springs. I also cleaned the
lock and lubricated it. Essentially you have a new lock using the
depth and space guide developed by Studebaker.
You will also notice that the keys are stamped with the code of: S
5168. This is Studebakers' key code for your ignition lock now. Keep
in mind this number and if you loose your keys, any locksmith who can
make keys by code can make a replacement key by this code. I'm also
sending a couple nickel plated brass keys as they are more durable.
I'm sorry if you had plans on being able to lock and unlock the car just
by having the ignition key cut by itself, but you will remember I did
say to send all locks that this key may open to make sure that they are
still keyed alike. If you have door locks that need to be keyed to this
ignition, you can send them to me to do. I'll need to cover the cost of
shipping, so include a check for that amount.
If you have any questions, you can contact me at
<WoodworkerJoe@webtv.net>
"If you have a duplicate key made, you still have a worn out key. If
you have Kode Kut Keys make you a duplicate, they cut a new key from
their code machine."
--
Woody
53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT
I should be sending your ignition lock soon. I want you to know that
the first two pins were really worn and when I went to make a key for
the lock, the next time I tried the key, the key didn't work. I noticed
that each time the key was inserted into the it would raise the first
two pins a different height depending on where the key hit the worn
pins. There was no way of telling what the original lock pin lengths
were.
After discovering that the lock was worn out, I rebuilt the lock using
new upper and lower pins and new copper springs. I also cleaned the
lock and lubricated it. Essentially you have a new lock using the
depth and space guide developed by Studebaker.
You will also notice that the keys are stamped with the code of: S
5168. This is Studebakers' key code for your ignition lock now. Keep
in mind this number and if you loose your keys, any locksmith who can
make keys by code can make a replacement key by this code. I'm also
sending a couple nickel plated brass keys as they are more durable.
I'm sorry if you had plans on being able to lock and unlock the car just
by having the ignition key cut by itself, but you will remember I did
say to send all locks that this key may open to make sure that they are
still keyed alike. If you have door locks that need to be keyed to this
ignition, you can send them to me to do. I'll need to cover the cost of
shipping, so include a check for that amount.
If you have any questions, you can contact me at
<WoodworkerJoe@webtv.net>
"If you have a duplicate key made, you still have a worn out key. If
you have Kode Kut Keys make you a duplicate, they cut a new key from
their code machine."
--
Woody
53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT
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