Cool/Heat: Air conditioning for my '65 Wagonaire: Sanden installation. Alternator?

[garyash]

I finally got the Sanden 508 compressor mounted and belts installed on the McKinnon 283 engine. Some time ago, I had bought a York compressor and bracket for a McKinnon engine at a swap meet, so I mounted the bracket and installed new bearings for the idlers. Vintage Air supplied the adapter bracket to connect the Sanden to the old Studebaker bracket. However, in order to have the compressor clear the top of the valve covers, I had to raise the compressor on 1-1/4" of blocks. I've now got one 7550 belt (11 mm wide x 55" long) driving the alternator on the inner pulley and one 9560 (13 mm wide x 56" long) belt driving the compressor on its outer groove (middle of crankshaft pulley). The wider belt seems to fit the crankshaft pulley and idler OK. I only needed one idler on the left side, but it does keep the belt from touching the fan pulley which is good because the wider belt runs at a little different surface speed. The fan pulley grooves didn't seem as wide as the other pulleys and the 13 mm belt didn't fit the groove well.

I got to thinking about electrical power. I currently have a 35 amp alternator, but probably need a bigger one since the compressor clutch takes 4 amps and the evaporator blower will need about 20. With the headlights on high beams, that's another 20 or so right there. Is a 55 amp alternator enough or do I need a little more? I may also have to upgrade the wire from the alternator to the ammeter and back to the battery as it's only a #12 wire. It's strange because this car was originally built with air conditioning - how did it run at all? If I upgrade the alternator, do I have to change the electronic regulator, too?

[Mike Sal]

Is the water pump pulley a Studebaker part? It doesn't look familiar to me.

[TWChamp]

I wouldn't think the blower fan and lights each draw 20 amps. I'd have guessed about half of that.

[thunderations]

I'm running A/C on my 66 Daytona/283 and have no problem with any electrical system, running the original alternator.
Don't fix it if it ain't broken.

[R_David]

Is the water pump pulley a Studebaker part? It doesn't look familiar to me.

its a McKinnon V8.

[Ron Strasser]

Gary;
Halogen Head lights draw 5 to 6 amps each I would guess about 10 amps or so for the blower motor and the coil on the clutch; very little. Yes a 35 amp alternator does not leave much extra especially if any if you are also running the wipers and heater blower at he same time on a damp fall night..
I do know that on my Avanti with a 40 amp alternator I have run the AC, Wipers and heater blower all at the same time without any problem. A rainy damp fall. Might have also had the headlights on; I don't remember.
Yes the regulator will have to be changed to match the alternator's output or use a alternator with a built in regulator.
Since the cars battery is connected to one side of the ammeter and the alternator and all the accessories are connected to the other the meter should be fine. The only time excessive current would flow through the ammeter is with a discharged battery.
I would be concerned about the wire size from the alternator to the ammeter. It's current caring capacity should match that of the alternator output.
Ron

[garyash]

Maybe its that the Vintage Air reproduction of the Mark IV evaporator under-dash unit has a bigger blower motor than the older units. Their wiring diagram calls for a connection capable of 20 amps continuous. If the high beams are on, all 4 headlamps are lit drawing 3-5 amps per lamp, so that's the 12-20 more, especially with halogen bulbs. Plus, there are other lights, ignition, the radio - it all adds up. I just LOVE these projects that escalate!

By the way, the water pump and fan are driven by the narrower 11 mm wide belt that drives the alternator, the same as originally configured. I just had to tilt the alternator out about an inch or so to get clearance for the compressor. I used the original mount that bolts up to the exhaust manifold on the right side.

[Bullet]

I added ac to my 64 Cruiser that did not have it before. I went to a 65amp alt and got one of the eBay electronic voltage regulators. All is going well. I put in a one wire alt, but notice that at stop lights with the radio and ac on the charge goes flat. Randy at 5 Avenue internet garage told me to go with a three wire and the issue would stop. The problem with the one wire is that our older cars run at about 800 rpm and the one wire needs about 1200. He suggested an 85 Chevy pu three wire. He sells them, but I did not buy his.

Mark

[garrilla]

Gary, if you upgrade your alternator make sure the alternator output wire is the correct gauge for the rated amperage.

[Hawklover]

I finally got the Sanden 508 compressor mounted and belts installed on the McKinnon 283 engine. Some time ago, I had bought a York compressor and bracket for a McKinnon engine at a swap meet, so I mounted the bracket and installed new bearings for the idlers. Vintage Air supplied the adapter bracket to connect the Sanden to the old Studebaker bracket. However, in order to have the compressor clear the top of the valve covers, I had to raise the compressor on 1-1/4" of blocks. I've now got one 7550 belt (11 mm wide x 55" long) driving the alternator on the inner pulley and one 9560 (13 mm wide x 56" long) belt driving the compressor on its outer groove (middle of crankshaft pulley). The wider belt seems to fit the crankshaft pulley and idler OK. I only needed one idler on the left side, but it does keep the belt from touching the fan pulley which is good because the wider belt runs at a little different surface speed. The fan pulley grooves didn't seem as wide as the other pulleys and the 13 mm belt didn't fit the groove well.

I got to thinking about electrical power. I currently have a 35 amp alternator, but probably need a bigger one since the compressor clutch takes 4 amps and the evaporator blower will need about 20. With the headlights on high beams, that's another 20 or so right there. Is a 55 amp alternator enough or do I need a little more? I may also have to upgrade the wire from the alternator to the ammeter and back to the battery as it's only a CSS Examples wire. It's strange because this car was originally built with air conditioning - how did it run at all? If I upgrade the alternator, do I have to change the electronic regulator, too?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]75047[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]75048[/ATTACH]

Gary my Avanti has factory a/c, and as you know has a 40 amp alt..............in over 53 yrs of ownership that 40 amp unit has never been a problem, even at night lights on and a/c blowing like crazy.

[mbstude]

Gary, I wouldn’t worry about it too much. Being in Florida I’ve had a number of Studes with AC installed. And, the factory installed AC setups on cars with 35 amp alternators, and generators, and they worked fine.

On a ‘55 Stude pickup, I ran a by-the-book ‘56 12V electrical system, including a ‘56 generator. I installed a complete Vintage Air AC setup with a Sanden compressor.. Didn’t have any problems.

I had a ‘63 Lark 6 with aftermarket AC with a Sanden compressor and the stock 35 amp alternator. No problems with that one either.

My ‘53 Commander had AC installed with a Sanden compressor when it was restored in 1997. The Sanden clutch was modified to operate on 6 volts, and the stock 6 volt generator was kept. It’s been blowing cold air for the last 26 years without any trouble.

All of that to say - I’d run the stock electrical system and enjoy the AC.

[r1lark]

Five year old thread..........hopefully Gary has already sorted out his electrical system.

[mbstude]

Five year old thread..........hopefully Gary has already sorted out his electrical system.

Thanks Paul, I didn’t notice the date. Now I’m really curious as to how the AC turned out on Gary’s wagon!

[garyash]

The Sanden went in OK, but I still have a leak I can’t find. I think it’s a bad crimp on a connector I can’t get to easily. I recently bought an electronic sniffer since the soap solution method hasn’t yielded results.

[WCP]

Make sure that the crimps on the A/C hoses are circumferential and not longitudinal as for hydraulic hosing!