Engine: Noise coming from water pump area and gauge question 1 video and 1 picture inside

[what huh]

Im loving my new to me Lark and I have a few questions about some things.

Firstly the temperature gauge. Pictured below is where the temp needle finds it home and when I get up to 50mph it drops about 1/16th of and inch. According to the temp gauge this engine also comes to operating temp fast. Is this normal? Are these gauges known to run high at this age? I looking for my laser temp gun but no dice yet. It was 75 degrees and humid when I took that picture.



Next is a noise that I am starting to hear. Its louder when the engine is cold and seems to only happen at idle. Here is link to youtube video.

Noise starts around 10 second mark and then when the camera is showing the driver side head I have the microphone about 2-3" from the engine. Only change to the motor is that the mechanical fuel pump has been removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0BFqMREG6c

ANy thoughts?

Thanks SDC

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Ahhhh maaaaan, my pictures crooked. oh well

[Bud]

The temperature gauge will read in the upper quarter of the scale when the engine is hot and there is a 180 degree or higher thermostat in the engine. so what you see is normal. As long as coolant isn't coming out of the overflow pipe the engine is not overheating. As far as the noise, remove the accessory drive belt or belts and run the engine briefly. If the noise disappears, then the water pump, generator or power steering pump if the car has one is the problem. Spinning the generator and water pump by hand will quickly tell you which is bad. The water pump shouldn't have any shaft wobble and should be quiet when you turn it by hand. the same goes for the generator. Bud

[StudeRich]

Your temp. gauge may drop some after you get some speed up and the Air Flow improves cooling it down, not a concern.

You can determine where the noise is better with a Broom Handle, Stick or other Wood to get on the Generator or near the Water pump.

Also as mentioned, with the Engine stopped you will FEEL the slop in the Water Pump Bearing if it is loose if you try to move the Fan Blades forward and back.

[what huh]

All great information guys, pretty easy diagnosis.

I took the belt of and noise is gone, jiggled the fan and “clunk clunk” very loose.

I feel a bit dumb I could have figured this one out but it didn’t seem like the noise was coming from the water pump. Especially when I placed my hand on it and the clunks did correlate with vibration. I was also 20 miles from home with the Lark. Maybe replacing the water pump will pull down the temp gauge needle.... maybe

Live and learn, glad I picked up a water pump while I was at the South Bend Swap Meet.

[what huh]

Another question while we are here....

Is it worth putting a shroud around this fan?

[TWChamp]

I'd install a shroud if the factory installed one, but if it came without one, then I'd leave it that way.
Just make sure you have the right fan, and it's the correct distance from the radiator.

[Bud]

I'm glad you found the problem. While you have the cooling system drained to replace the water pump, I would recommend removing the freeze plugs and digging as much rust and crud out of the water jackets as you can. Over the years, trash builds up in the water jackets restricting the flow of coolant through the block and head or heads. Also take a good look down the radiator neck to check for plugged or partially plugged tubes. Like I said in a previous comment, the Stewart Warner gauges will show the temperature in the upper quarter of the gauge even if everything is good in the cooling system. Bud

[jnormanh]

Even more interesting is the video which follows yours on YouTube. It's a 432,000 mile engine which needs nothing more than cleaning, new gaskets and fresh oil, and it's good to go sommore.

They don't build 'em like they usta. Thank goodness.

[tim333]

Why thank goodness, jnormanh? They SHOULD build them like they used to.

[jackb]

when you get it off, look at the rust inside your now blown water pump to get an idea of how much of this rust is in the walls of the block and in the radiator passages...

[what huh]

when you get it off, look at the rust inside your now blown water pump to get an idea of how much of this rust is in the walls of the block and in the radiator passages...

Will do, I’m going to do it this weekend. Working on the water this week, beautiful weather here

[what huh]

I did the whole remove belt trick and noise is gone. I checked for corrosion and there was a good bit but I have seen worst so I left it for a winter project. I also have an idea that I am going to start different thread for regarding flushing the cooling system.

I replaced the pump and swapped out the 180 degree thermostat for a 170 degree for no other reason than that I read somewhere that it had a 170 from factory. If you want to do the same tell the parts guy: 1999 Honda Accord 4 cyl engine. I replaced the coolant and added a coolant additive claiming to drop temperature by 20 degrees. Will it work, who knows ... I had it already so I threw it in.

All of this resulted in the gauge reading blow what it was reading. Here is a picture of the highest I saw the needle go today. As you will see it is lower then the first picture.



I also have another question. I have noticed that the last few times that I have driven the Lark when I turn the key off it continues to turn over and run for a few moments..... stumbling cause spark has been turned off but still running. Whats going on here?

[jackb]

your starter solenoid might be sticking or your ignition switch, or both .. To check, when over running (poor term), quickly turn key to the left (ACC) and see if things stop. If so, probably ign. sw. If not, maybe solenoid...

[StudeRich]

If an Engine continues to run for a moment after shutting down the Ignition, it is what called "Dieseling".
That is when the engine is lighting off remaining fuel air mixture from too much HEAT, not spark, OR the Timing is way too LATE.

Too high an Idle speed or a failed Vacuum advance could contribute to that condition.

[what huh]

your starter solenoid might be sticking or your ignition switch, or both .. To check, when over running (poor term), quickly turn key to the left (ACC) and see if things stop. If so, probably ign. sw. If not, maybe solenoid...

Ok, Ill try that next time I go for a drive.

If an Engine continues to run for a moment after shutting down the Ignition, it is what called "Dieseling".
That is when the engine is lighting off remaining fuel air mixture from too much HEAT, not spark, OR the Timing is way too LATE.

Too high an Idle speed or a failed Vacuum advance could contribute to that condition.

Dieseling YES! I knew it had a word but it had left me.

Last time it happened was this morning, ran the engine for 2 minutes from cold. Went to riteaid 2 miles away. shut it down and the Dieseling happened. I would like to rule out heat on that one. Ill check the timing first in addition to JackB thoughts