Ignition: electronic distrubutor ballast resistor

[StudeNorm]

I installed a new electronic distributor from Dave T into my R2 Avanti and wired it directly as the original, keeping the ballast resistor in circuit. I have been running into starting problems so I bypassed the resistor and it seems to start better but I haven't taken it on a run. I believe the ballast resistor is there to keep full 12 volts away from the coil and points except when the car is being started. Will there be any problems applying full voltage to the coil (pertronix high voltage style) during normal running? Thanks

[RadioRoy]

It depends on the coil. What does Pertronix say about that particular coil?

[rbigcal]

So since the starter solenoid bypasses the resistor when starting and makes it start on 12v and you say it starts better when you bypass the resistor it seems logical to me that the bypass part of the solenoid must not be working or maybe the bypass wire is broken. You could check with a voltmeter while cranking the engine to see if it actually is getting 12V when cranking. Otherwise can't you ask Dave about running it 12v fulltime ? I know the pertronix electronic ign runs on 12v all the time or can be ran off of resistor.

[StudeNorm]

It did not do this before the ignition swap.

The bypass wire is intact and connected to the solenoid but I didn't check for continuity.

I started to suspect a bypass problem when it simply refused to start before flooding. When I did get it to fire and clear the flood it seemed to be related to the position of the key. It would only fire when cranking if the key had only just been turned enough to make first contact. I was ready to change the lockset if bypassing the ballast didn't work. So far removing the resistor from the cct is working.

The diagram that came with the ignition shows hot to +. No bypass. Dave did say my choice but sometimes I like to hear from the voice of others what experiences they have encountered along the way. Thanks, RadioRoy for the suggestion. I don't recall seeing any instructions in the coil box but will recheck as they may be stuck inside. If I don't find anything to the contrary I will leave it hot and go for a run. If it all works out it will be time to tweak and tune the carb rods, jets and springs and then the ignition springs and limiters. Or is it better to do the ignition tweaking first? (another question...)

This forum has a wealth of knowledge and I like to think it is a place to get advice and glean some of that knowledge. Thanks for the responses.

[Ron Strasser]

Studenorm;
If you have Dave's latest distributor with the Pertronix Module. Their manual recommends the removal of the ballast resistor. http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instru...heets/1181.pdf
If You have a volt meter it would be a good idea to check the voltage at the coil before and during cranking the engine.
Ron

[wittsend]

The Pertronix Ignitor MODULE* (if you have that too) should run off 12 volts. The coil (whose ever it is) needs to have a matched resistor to the coil. And as mentioned the full voltage from the soleniod when cranking. There are some coils that don't require a resistor. So, resistor or not is COIL dependent.

*A VERY common misconception about a Pertronix Ignitor is that it provides 12 volts + to the coil. It does not. All it does (electronically) is "make and break" the - (negative) side of the coil to ground just like the points did. And, while the module can deal with "some" voltage fluctuation it is best run on 12 volts. A lot of people tap the module power from the resisor side and are then running the module on the ragged edge (if at all) of its capability.

[64V-K7]

Is Dave's "latest", a Mallory with a Pertronix module or an entirely new distributor?

[mch]

My only suggestion is to call Dave, he is back from surgery and is walking when the roads are clear. Give him a call or email him, he is the most agreeable to provide information.
Mark

[Hawklover]

Norm,
May I ask if your Prestolite dizzy was working as it should? Properly rebuilt with MoPar bronze bushed weights, ball bearing breaker plate, and some other Mopar standard items, the Prestolite becomes bullet proof! Point ignition is so simple to work on, and all one needs to do is carry some spares in the trunk and a tach/dwell/timing light in the trunk. Just curious as to why you changed to the other dizzy? Thanks in advance for the elucidation:-)

I installed a new electronic distributor from Dave T into my R2 Avanti and wired it directly as the original, keeping the ballast resistor in circuit. I have been running into starting problems so I bypassed the resistor and it seems to start better but I haven't taken it on a run. I believe the ballast resistor is there to keep full 12 volts away from the coil and points except when the car is being started. Will there be any problems applying full voltage to the coil (pertronix high voltage style) during normal running? Thanks

[StudeNorm]

Hi,

I will address Hawklover's question first.

My car was purchased almost 5 years ago as a runner and I drove it from Vancouver Island to my home near Edmonton on the seller's word that it was a driver. It came with a noisy S/C, since been sent out and rebuilt, a Mopar fuel pump, also replaced and a GM window style dizzy, probably from an older '61 or '62 V8 Stude.

The carb seemed to be acting up and when I rebuilt it I found a flooded float. It still seemed "off" so I rebuilt the fuel pump but that failed twice so I finally replaced it with a Dave T Mopar unit. That cleaned up some of the roughness but not all so I installed new plug wires and then this new sparker. I was concerned that I had screwed up the carb rebuild but after replacing the dizzy the motor started running smooth all the way to the upper limit (unknown what exactly it is as I now need to repair the tach). The latest issue was the starting problem but removing the resistor has it starting on the first crank. A quick trip down the hiway Sunday got it up to $120 on a mostly deserted stretch of road, and it got there impressively fast. This seems to say the carb rebuild is not an issue. It was smooth all the way up to speed. I did not yet find the paper that came with the coil so I may need to contact Dave but I feel the motor is about as close to a stable platform as I can get it. Next comes fine tuning.

Since it is still winter here (go figure!) getting it out of the garage is a hit or miss proposition. We are expecting rain, freezing rain and snow over the next few days.

Thanks for all the advice. I will update as things happen as I am sure there may be others curious about what I find as I get things cleaned up.

BTW, I will be tearing down the old Delco distributor at some point since I am curious why it made such a difference when I replaced it.

[RadioRoy]

BTW, I will be tearing down the old Delco distributor at some point since I am curious why it made such a difference when I replaced it.

The mechanical advance weights tend to wear out the shafts/pins they rotate around. Be sure to look at those.

[345 DeSoto]

I installed a Pertronix unit in my 289 Sky Hawk. I didn't go through the Ballast Resistor, and I'm using a NON internally resisted coil. Since the distributor doesn't have points, which need the resistor to send 12 volts to, I left it out. I just ''touch" the gas pedal, to set the electric choke (Edelbrock 1403), and the engine starts INSTANTLY....FWIW

[PackardV8]

Since the distributor doesn't have points, which need the resistor to send 12 volts to,

Very minor point of clarification, but in the '56-on Stude OEM system, 12 volts are sent through the system to start the engine and once the key is released from the start position, the run resistor reduces the 12 volts to approx 6-8 volts so the points last longer between filing/setting/replacing.

jack vines

[345 DeSoto]

Got it bass ackwords, but you got the point...

[gordr]

The normal case for electronic ignition is to have no ballast resistor, although the old Mopars are an exception.