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170 ohv valve adjustment

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  • Engine: 170 ohv valve adjustment

    Just had head and valve work done on my 63 170 ohv was wondering what the proper procedure is to adjust the valves I have the spark plugs out and can easily find tdc for each cylinder I just don’t the proper procedure from there I did some googlen but couldn’t find anything on it.

  • #2
    From what my shop manual says, and what i did, use a light probe thingy to find exactly when TDC is, then use a feeler gauge to set the exhaust and intake valves. .027-.024" when cold and .023-.025" when hot. I just did .025 when it was cold, that way its in the middle. Repeat for each cylinder.

    Good luck,
    Ryan

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    • #3
      Ok great thanks so much ! Do I do both the exhaust and intake valve at tdc for each cylinder?

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      • #4
        Yeah. Do both at the same time to the same measurements.

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        • #5
          and if you err, do it towards loose. It would be noisier, but the additional contact time of the valve seats should help keep them cooler and reduce the chance for cracks (so I am told, but feel free to correct me)
          Ron Dame
          '63 Champ

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Ron Dame View Post
            and if you err, do it towards loose. It would be noisier, but the additional contact time of the valve seats should help keep them cooler and reduce the chance for cracks (so I am told, but feel free to correct me)
            So if its looser then there is more contact time? I'd think there'd be less, which is why they're noisier, thus less cam wear but less valve opening and less efficiency. I get if there's more contact time then more heat transfers out but that would mean the valves should be tighter, right? Which is why you don't want to turn drums too much b/c they get hotter faster since there's less material for the heat to transfer to.

            I'm just applying the stuff I've learned in college and what I've learned from my 1 year in the car world to this. I'm 19 so I don't know a dang thing, haha.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by StarDiero75 View Post
              So if its looser then there is more contact time? I'd think there'd be less, which is why they're noisier, thus less cam wear but less valve opening and less efficiency. I get if there's more contact time then more heat transfers out but that would mean the valves should be tighter, right? Which is why you don't want to turn drums too much b/c they get hotter faster since there's less material for the heat to transfer to.

              I'm just applying the stuff I've learned in college and what I've learned from my 1 year in the car world to this. I'm 19 so I don't know a dang thing, haha.
              You're thinking STEM contact, but Ron mentioned the SEAT contact time. Yes, exact clearance for the valves is the best, but if you error, it better to be a little bit loose instead of tight. Years ago I thought I'd make my old Chevy 216 a little bit quieter by running the valve adjustment a couple thousandths tighter, but within a month I was giving it a valve job due to burnt exhaust valves.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
                You're thinking STEM contact, but Ron mentioned the SEAT contact time. Yes, exact clearance for the valves is the best, but if you error, it better to be a little bit loose instead of tight. Years ago I thought I'd make my old Chevy 216 a little bit quieter by running the valve adjustment a couple thousandths tighter, but within a month I was giving it a valve job due to burnt exhaust valves.
                Ohhh that makes sense. I have to redo mine anyway so ill keep that in mind

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