Front Axle / Front Suspension: Install problem top inner rubber bushing

[Paul Keller]

Need some guidance- Just finished installing the top inner rubber bushings on DOC, a '63 Hawk. The bushings are firmly seated to the rounded shoulder (per the Shop Manual instructions). However, part of the bare spindle is showing -about a total of 1/4 inch. In other words, the spindle/shaft can move sideways a total of 1/4". I do not recall if the same space was present at disassembly (there was so much paint and crud it would not have been obvious). Note-The lower bushings seated right up against the lower shaft shoulder, so I am aware what it would look like. Also, the installation process was repeated without notable movement (maybe .010 or .015" additional).

In comparing the length of the new to the old bushings, all dimensions agreed (overall length of the inner small diameter steel tube, length of the large outer tube and the length from the outer flange to the shoulder. What am I missing?

Has any one in Stude' Land replaced the upper inner bushings with the same results?

As always Thanks for Every Ones Ongoing Help,
PaulTK

[Steve Winzar]

Hi Paul- I have recently replaced all my front suspension parts lately so it's all freshly in mind. !/4" slop isn't right and you appear to have been methodical in your comparison of old parts. Are you absolutely 100% sure you have fully seated the bushes in their holes- there is a fair radius in their corners. Your car would have been steering all over creation if you had that much slop in there before disassembly. Might you have strained the ears of the Control arms apart during disassembly? I found my Left hand lower control arm had been crushed inward about 3/8" in a previous overhaul and had to fernagle the part in a press (and other means ) to rectify it, so this sort of thing does go on. Are both Control Arms having this problem? I have measured the centerline distance between the outsides of the ears on my CA's (in car, pins installed) and the width came to 7" or maybe 6 15/16". you might want to compare yours and your intallation with my picture below.
Regards, Steve

[Colgate Studebaker]

Sounds like you pushed the control arm together when you pressed the bushing in. I made up a support from some galvanized pipe to go inside the control arm to prevent the arm from collapsing together as the pressing process was done. It looked terrible but it worked great and prevented any arm movement. Hope this helps, Bill.

[Paul Keller]

Steve & bill:

Steve: Both sides have the same "extra" 1/4 inch spacing - I will measure them upon returning home in a couple hours (I use the public library's internet - its fast and free).

Bill: I used an OTC-Like bushing install tool which does not require the "special" Stude' Tool, and the spacing did not change between pre- and post- install.

Will post results of the measurements Monday/Tuesday if possible (my next trip to the library).

Thanks for noting the possible problems

PaulTK

[bezhawk]

You WILL usually have a gap, until the side bolts are tightened. Be sure to use new lock washers, and only tighten them after the weight is on the suspension. The inner sleeve is supposed to tighten against the shoulder of the cross shaft. Only the rubber twisting is what is taken up by the suspension movement. No pivoting of the inner sleeve of the bushing on the shaft is desired or required.

[Paul Keller]

Re: Steve's dimensions - Mine are slightly wider at 7 3/16', which accounts for the approximate 1/4" gap. I'm going to try to get them a bit closer to "no gap" by tightening the end cap bolts/screws while the arm is on the work bench. If that brings them in closer I'll follow Mr, bezhawks suggestion. One concern is if the sides will pull in evenly, parallel to each other.

Thanks again for your help, I now have information to proceed with - Always a comfort!

PaulTK

[az64stude]

I have 8.75" from tip or head of 9/16 bolt to tip or head of opposite 9/16 bolt. No 1/4 gap, I hope this helps