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Pilot bearing R&R

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  • Clutch / Torque Converter: Pilot bearing R&R

    Will the cross member come all the way out to remove Champ NP HD 5 speed overdrive. should I pull distributor for clearance. Need to replace pilot bearing- probably clutch and throw out bearing while apart. Can this really make it seem to be an ignition problem? Thanks Roy NM

  • #2
    The engine craps out at 2400 rpm. It has bad vibration. Yes the trans is on the build sheet. I've checked and rechecked everything with the ignition.Same results no matter what.I don't think the transmission has ever been out of this truck. Are there any tricks to centering the clutch cover or pressure plate. Bell housing. Thank you's Roy
    Last edited by roy fraley; 08-09-2017, 07:30 AM.

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    • #3
      roy, Don't know what you have been scratching, but the cross member is not removable. The cross member holds the sides of the bell housing. Just pull the tranny out and get an inside bearing seal removal knocker and pop the pilot bearing out. Pilot bearings rarely go bad. Please re word the question it doesn't make too much sense.

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      • #4
        I agree. Not sure what the distributor, or ignition problem, has to do with the pilot bushing.
        Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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        • #5
          If the "Issue" is Vibration, the Cause is not likely the Pilot Bushing, but the Clutch Housing Centering (Dial-in) to the centerline of the Crankshaft that was not done when this Engine and Clutch Housing were assembled.

          Did this Truck's Production Order show it was built as a NP 5 Speed?
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

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          • #6
            The Clutch Housing is "Centered" by TWO Dowel Pins after being Dial Indicated to the crank centerline. The Dowels have to be drilled oversize while the Housing is Bolted in place and oversize Dowels used.

            If you owned this Truck since the Day it was delivered and never replaced the Engine, the Factory Dial-in would still be right on, but how many owners Today, 50 years later can say that with certainty?

            Why do you think you need a New Pilot bushing in the Crankshaft?

            Does the ENGINE Number match the Prod. Order?
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner
            SDC Member Since 1967

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            • #7
              This is the production order - pretty nicely equipped truck.


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              • #8
                Looks like there was a change in the planned Engine to: 7E3288, a Standard 289, I can't read what it was.

                A factory ordered DELUXE Conestoga Camper Shell, now THAT's rare!

                This also confirms that there WAS a Factory Authorized Aftermarket STEP bumper available in addition to the Standard optional "U" Channel Type.

                These were usually not Factory ordered, but the Dealer would install a Local Mfg'd. generic Step Bumper, but designed for a Studebaker, like the West Coast (Calif.?) Mfg'd. Safe-T Brand Bumper.

                The buyer also got "creative" with the tires ordering (2) Front, one size oversize, 7.10X15 4 Ply.
                and (3) 7.10X15 6 Ply.
                Last edited by StudeRich; 08-10-2017, 03:34 PM.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

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                • #9
                  And I believe Roy still has the Camper shell - he is planning on reuniting the two in the near future.

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                  • #10
                    I believe that I'm the third or fourth owner of the truck.And I will keep it numbers matching. I've still got my ignition problem and am going to install pertronixs if possible. Thanks for your interests and patience.Money is tight. I love being part of this noble Studebakers Drivers Club. Roy Fraley
                    Last edited by roy fraley; 08-25-2017, 04:39 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Roy take a new resistor wire or ballast unit with you next trip. they can go bad and cause all kinds of grief, it's the pink wire between the coil and ignition switch. Luck Doofus

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                      • #12
                        Moved after install
                        Last edited by roy fraley; 08-25-2017, 04:41 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Roy you are barking up the wrong tree!!! Studes are gear drive. the rotor will move as the dist is stabbed, that's normal. look at dist gear, see the angle on the gear teeth,thats why the rotor turns. are you sure you are on No1 compression? this has thrown a lot of folks over the years. a finger over the plug hole when cranking will tell the tale. Luck Doofus

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                          • #14
                            the rotor has moved 2.5 posts since it was installed.Number 1 compression stroke.It will not rev past 2200 rpm. Low vacuum

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                            • #15
                              With air cleaner off stand to one side and snatch throttle wide open, watch for small cloud of fuel standing above carb throat. if cloud is there you have a blocked exhaust system.Luck Doofus

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