Body / Glass: windshield & seat

[clifford]

I am ready to tackle installing a new windshield in my 55 President Coupe, and have watched the video from u-tube on someone doing it on a Stude from the 60's. After he has installed the glass, he then lifts the rubber on the outside & injects 3M bedding compound under it. Is this what I should do, or would you recommend injecting the compound into the groove in the weatherstrip as I install it on the glass? I'm wondering if I will be able to lift the rubber after it is in the car, or will the stainless trim prevent it from raising enough to get the compound in.

On a second question, I removed the interior from my car a year or more ago, and I'm after forgetting what held the front seat to the seat frame. I kept good notes on most things, but didn't on this. I don't see anything that would indicate how they were held together.

Thanks.

[StudeRich]

The Seat Back is hinged to the Seat Frame, and the Bottom Cushion just drops into the Frame.

The Factory applied the bedding compound (Clay) to the Body Opening first, as shown in the Shop Manual. It would not work as well after.

There are other more modern sealers for the Glass Grove in the Rubber Weatherstrip. Try a Automotive Paint Supplier for the "right stuff".

[clifford]

Thanks, StudeRich, but I was wondering about the channel in the weatherstrip where the glass sits, not the body flange. If the glass just sits in the rubber without sealer, won't water get in past the seal? That is where I mentioned the guy in the video lifting the rubber & injecting sealer after the windshield is in the car- sealer being injected between rubber & glass.

[bezhawk]

You can't do a good enough job of sealing the rubber to the glass AFTER the glass is in the car. I have personally seen this in EVERY case where someone tried so skip the shop manuals procedure. Use the same NON HARDENING bedding and glazing compound BETWEEN the GLASS and RUBBER. If you use a sealant that sets then the rubber may set to the glass where it won't set properly to the body when installed in the body. The rubber has to roll into position in most instances as the rope is pulled.

[Champ51]

If you follow Bezhawk's procedure of using bedding compound between glass and gasket, do not wait more than a couple hours to get the windshield installed. The 3M 08509 begins to take a set that quickly. I foolishly broke my windshield installation into subtasks over the course of a week and am now fighting that hardening. I even used a rope and tape to hold the gasket on, but there are still spots that were pushed out by the sealant.

[bezhawk]

What are you fighting? It oozing out? It cleans up fine with mineral spirits. Better have some make a mess, than fight leaking water later on. I didn't make this procedure up, it is in the factory shop manual.

[Champ51]

What are you fighting? It oozing out? It cleans up fine with mineral spirits. Better have some make a mess, than fight leaking water later on. I didn't make this procedure up, it is in the factory shop manual.

On a '51, installed from the inside, the gasket was installed to glass with what I thought was an even bead of 08509, and roped in the flange channel and taped securely at each corner. This subassembly was left to sit for several days. The subsequent installation into the car was relatively easy, but now the gasket will not lay correctly in places where the gasket had not been taped. I'm having to place shims between the gasket and body to push it so the inside of the channel will touch the glass. If the shims are removed, the gasket pushes back away from the glass.

[bezhawk]

Your problem is most likely new glass. Original glass was 1/4 thick. New stuff is about 3/16" the difference means the gaskets don't fit the glass properly.

[rkapteyn]

Do a search on this forum for "Windshield install" and you find loads of advice.

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?99431-windshield&highlight=Windshield+install

http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Windows/sdc10295.html

Robert Kapteyn