We want to put a Vintage Air AC/Heater in a 1962 Gran Turismo Hawk ... Is there a better way to go? Anything to watch out for? Any coaching available would be wonderful ... Thanx
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1962 Gran Turismo Hawk Vintage air AC/Heater conversion
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I like the small, under dash, AC evaporator/heater. It works great, and in California that heater will probably be all you need in cooler weather. In rainy weathere, just turn on both the heat and AC simultaneously, and you will stay toasty, and the windows will remain fog free. I also use the OEM heater here in Kentucky. Combined with the under dash unit they work great down into the single digits, and the windows remain fog free.
The AC is marginal, even when at its best That is because the 'K' body Studes leak a lot of hot air, from the outside to inside. The heater works differently, since the fender vents over pressurize the car, so cold air does not leak in, but you do still leak some warm air to the outside. What I am saying, the heater works much better than the AC. In temps 90 and above, the AC is OK for folks in the front seat, but just OK. Those in the back seat will be uncomfortably warm.
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Originally posted by doofus View PostUsing their Slim Line heat, A/C, defrost unit in Wife's 57 Silver Hawk. can ride 'round in summer with windows down and stay cool! Luck Doofus
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Originally posted by Dancnman View PostWe want to put a Vintage Air AC/Heater in a 1962 Gran Turismo Hawk ... Is there a better way to go? Anything to watch out for? Any coaching available would be wonderful ... ThanxGary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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I agree with Joe Hall regarding the A/C in K car. I put one in mine and it was not too effective; too much A/C loss from warm air coming in. Folks in back seat had very little cooling. The heater part was great and provided what was needed. As a result I seldom used the A/C. I have one complete system on the shelve and am reluctant to install on my '62 GT that I am working on considering past experience. Chet445
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AC aside, I was burning my feet on any trips over 20 minutes so I decided to see what was going on. If you added up the total square footage of all the holes in the firewall it would probably be the equivalent of a side window rolled down. I used an insulating material on it and the rest of the interior. The old original cardboard with padding crumbled as I removed it
Last edited by Chartrain; 08-20-2019, 01:16 PM.
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Agree, sealing the firewall holes definitely makes for less air transfer into the cab, winter and summer. With motor out and firewall cover removed, I like to put a strong electrical light under the hood, turnout the lights in the garage, then lay in the floorboard and look under the dash. All the light coming through the holes is an eye opener. There are tiny screw holes, and larger holes around rubber grommets, heater/AC hose holes, etc.. I use, "Dum Dum" to seal most of those holes. Anytime the steering column is removed, if in doubt, I replace the rubber seal; have also used the plumber's boot trick to seal them if no plans to remove the column (but it looks like the angle of the roofer's boot shown above would be a better fit). Have also taped off the engine bay side and then sprayed insulation foam into the rubber boot for a 100 percent seal.
At the Louisville NSRA convention recently, I see technology continues to advance in materials used in floor matting and exhaust sleeves, but the price is also going up. The Dynamite is now old technology, but very cheap to buy. I do not like to add anything to the floor that won't dry quickly, if soaked in a heavy rain. Not an issue in the desert, but certainly a concern here on the east coast.
Thinking out of the box with creativity certainly helps in sealing the firewall. LOLLast edited by JoeHall; 08-22-2019, 12:07 PM.
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