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  • #16
    About the first thing I saw a while ago was that the dif is pointing downwards... (On & off I've planed traction bars so I guess these thoughts must have kept my mind off these parts because I was gonna go here anyway later on.) & isn't it amazing that I dared to fit all MoPar small block stuff in instead of chevy stuff? Bad me! & it fitted so easy too...

    The front shaft that looks cracked was just grease & I realized that the first pictures here was with the gearbox lifted a bit, silly enough! So here is the way it's been for a while until now:
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    Then I thought for a while that I would have to do what many (exept SilverHawkDan R.I.P.) used to tell me if I was gonna have torqueflite in a Studebaker; raise the housing... But I lifted the gearbox as much as I could with still space for movements & here it is now fitted higher:
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    (Then the dif will have to come up in its front too)
    & the cup between shaft & dif that was out a bit don't feel good at all I noticed when I had it all loose.
    "My" speedshop (that's also a engine overhaul workshop) is closed for holidays so I'll have to wait for angle shims 1-2 weeks more.
    The rear joints angle now:
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    So while I wait I'll work on my pals -54 coupe a bit instead.
    Last edited by Noxnabaker; 07-18-2019, 11:28 PM.

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    • #17
      It's hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like your trans and axle pinion both point down. So if you were to draw a line through the trans shaft and the pinion shaft they would cross to make an X. If this is the case, you need to rotate the axle up a lot. You may need to cut the spring perch off the axle, rotate the axle and weld them back on so that the lines through both shafts would be parallel. It's OK for the drive shaft to angle down from back to front instead of being from front to back if needed. It doesn't matter (in most cases), as long as the trans yoke is long enough to stay in the trans (yours looks to be hanging out a lot already) and the pinion and trans shafts are parallel.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by studegary View Post
        In the picture, it does not appear that the front universal joint is in alignment (not put together squarely) with the shaft out of the transmission.
        Probably an inside lock u-joint.
        Jerry Forrester
        Forrester's Chrome
        Douglasville, Georgia

        See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

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        • #19
          Originally posted by bensherb View Post
          It's hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like your trans and axle pinion both point down. So if you were to draw a line through the trans shaft and the pinion shaft they would cross to make an X. If this is the case, you need to rotate the axle up a lot. You may need to cut the spring perch off the axle, rotate the axle and weld them back on so that the lines through both shafts would be parallel. It's OK for the drive shaft to angle down from back to front instead of being from front to back if needed. It doesn't matter (in most cases), as long as the trans yoke is long enough to stay in the trans (yours looks to be hanging out a lot already) and the pinion and trans shafts are parallel.
          I don't think the trans and pinion center lines always need to be parallel, it is okay for both to point downwards as long as they point at the same angle (within 1/2 degree). this is why I referred to the set up as 'broke back' . In autos it is usually done to create more driveshaft room under the floor. cheers, junior


          Last edited by junior; 07-19-2019, 06:56 AM.
          sigpic
          1954 C5 Hamilton car.

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          • #20
            Noxnabaker; Lookin' way better! Hope that's got it.

            Deepnhock; That is totally awesome!!!!!

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            • #21
              Thanx Jeffry!
              & in my opinion Jeff Rice never writes anything at all unless it's spot on.
              I'm waiting to see how much the rear axel dif front must turn upwards so I can judge if I can get away with using angle shims or if I have to cut & weld the spring mounts in a new position... But some days I can hardly get time for this at all cuz now also these takes quite a bit of attention:
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              Last edited by Noxnabaker; 07-19-2019, 12:27 PM.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View Post
                Deepnhock; That is totally awesome!!!!!
                I thought Deepnhock was being sarcastic, when he was talking about the U-joint.

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                • #23
                  Just quickly it would appear that your transmission angle is too great. In brokenback configuration it should be 1 deg down more on the diff end to allow for wind up at speed. Your transmission is too low, shim it up somewhat.
                  Download an angle meter app on your cellphone and you can use it to measure all the driveline angles.Click image for larger version

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                  Chec also that the engine and transmission are parallel to the chassis.The Stude engine is offset to the passenger side.
                  Allan Tyler Melbourne Australia

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                  • #24
                    Is that 5 or 6 little ones you have there Nox?

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by alpayed View Post
                      Just quickly it would appear that your transmission angle is too great.
                      That's what I thought from the pics too. When I set up an engine/trans, I do it with the suspension at ride height then set the engine with the carb flange level, and build a trans mount/crossmember to fit. I've never had a trans end up at an extreme angle.

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                      • #26
                        It's 7 pupps, 3 brown ones also that's hardly visable, here's all:

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                        Now they're almost 3 weeks & already goes to the proper spot to pee, makes me wonder about other puppies we've had & even about human babies...


                        I don't have a "smart"phone Alpayed, I have a trustable about 15 year old Nokia that's been dropped loads o' times, landed in pieces, put together & still works fine & needs charging 1 time / week, so this I write on my laptop. So for bullheaded me it's down to some old fasioned way...
                        Last edited by Noxnabaker; 07-20-2019, 12:01 AM.

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                        • #27
                          I loved my Nokia but they stopped making phones. Have had to put up with Apple and Samsung.(in that order) However just lift the rear mount on the transmission about 20mm (3/4") and see if it improves. If it does then you know the answer is there somewhere.

                          Allan
                          Allan Tyler Melbourne Australia

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                          • #28
                            Ok Allan, in the 2 top pictuers in post 16 I showed that I actually did lift the rear of the trans mount, I think it's about almost ,or even 1 full inch, forgot to messure.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Noxnabaker View Post
                              Ok Allan, in the 2 top pictuers in post 16 I showed that I actually did lift the rear of the trans mount, I think it's about almost ,or even 1 full inch, forgot to messure.
                              OK I see that now. Did it make a difference? I believe here in Australia the factory setting for the driveline was 6deg down on the diff and 5deg down on the transmission. Less would be better IE 5 and 4 respectively.
                              Allan Tyler Melbourne Australia

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                              • #30
                                I don't know if that makes a difference yet, I have to fix the rear one first but I'd be surprised if it don't.

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