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Converting to One Piece Shaft?

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  • #16
    About 15 years ago I installed a TH400 in a 56J, and used a one-piece driveshaft, I believe 3" OD. I, "massaged" the original 2-piece carrier bearing hole, and rear tunnel for clearance in the areas mentioned above. Also installed HD rear springs from SASCO and HD front springs (526125) built to OEM spec by Coil Spring Specialties (which I woulda done anyway). I drove the car over 40,000 miles before selling it, and the driveshaft would very seldom kiss the floorboard, usually with 2-3 people in the back seat and hitting a large dip. So it really was a non-issue.

    That 56J was one of two I have driven that did not have a droning noise, most prominent at 70-80 MPH. It seems to originate at the carrier bearing, then reverberate off the cardboard headliner. The only other 56Js I ever drove that did not have the drone had cloth headliner, instead of OEM cardboard. So I believe if the PO's Sky Hawk has a cardboard headliner, he may experience a noise reduction he did not even know existed. OTOH, maybe it's just a 56J thing. All I know is, I have driven maybe eight to ten 56Js (owned or repaired/test drove) and all but the above three had the drone. Never drove a Sky Hawk.
    Last edited by JoeHall; 06-16-2019, 01:34 PM.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by bensherb View Post
      It doesn't even take hard acceleration, just a decent "whoop" in the freeway. Actually it's the shaft that hits; about 6" in front of the rear U joint. That is with a 3" diameter shaft, any larger will take much less.

      Raising the year of the car, heavy duty or helper springs, and heavy duty shocks can help.
      I can make him a deal on a pair of NOS Monroe Load Levelers.

      jack vines
      PackardV8

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      • #18
        OK, had the same problem. The solution is to ditch the universal joint and install a constant velocity joint. Then realign and put most of ALL the angles into the CVJ. Smooth as silk.

        Click image for larger version

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        more details here
        Allan Tyler Melbourne Australia

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        • #19
          Car has air shocks. The "moot point" being, the 2 piece shaft in MY car is not working, no matter how many "millions" of others are. The Drive Line Shop checked adjusted, re checked and re adjusted numerous times...and had my Shop Manual for reference to boot. THAT'S why the decision to go to a one piece shaft...

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          • #20
            Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
            Car has air shocks. The "moot point" being, the 2 piece shaft in MY car is not working, no matter how many "millions" of others are. The Drive Line Shop checked adjusted, re checked and re adjusted numerous times...and had my Shop Manual for reference to boot. THAT'S why the decision to go to a one piece shaft...
            What do you mean when you say the 2-piece, "is not working"?
            Thanks

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Mrs K Corbin View Post
              $85?!?! WOW shop in Nashville charged me $400 to do a 6 footer for my dodge truck. That was for me bringing in the measurements and my old shaft.
              You need to find a new shop. I just paid $85 for the driveshaft work on my friends Nova also. I'm going back to him for work on the drive shaft on the 37 next. He's already told me it'll be $85 for that one too. And it involves marrying a TH400 to a Ford Explorer 8.8" posi.
              sals54

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              • #22
                Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
                This is moot, because the decision has been made to give up and go one piece.
                However, it's obvious some of the above only appeared to be correct. Millions of two and three piece driveshafts function correctly for the past hundred years. Drive alongside a medium truck at freeway speeds. Because of the low gears trucks run, the multi-piece driveshaft is spinning so fast it's a blur and narry a wobble.

                Installing a one-piece driveshaft can bring its own problems. The early Stude tunnel is quite small, so the more desirable large diameter driveshafts cannot be used. Also, with passengers in the rear seat and/or a load in the trunk, on hard acceleration, the u-joints can hit the underside of the tunnel.

                jack vines
                I used a 3" one piece shaft in the 54 Coupe, 289 4 speed, 9" Ford rear. To gain clearance I simply used a wedge under the rear end to give it about a 1 degree down angle on the pinion. Even lowered, I never had any issues with the drive shaft, U joints or hitting the tunnel.
                sals54

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                • #23
                  345 Desoto, I believe you misunderstood Jack's statement. The point was moot " because the decision has been made to give up and go one piece. "

                  Sal, did you also raise the rear of the trans to match the new wedged angle of the pinion, or are you running it out of line?

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                  • #24
                    I was running the engine lower which helped the drive angles a little, but it was never optimal. But also had no vibration.
                    sals54

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by alpayed View Post
                      OK, had the same problem. The solution is to ditch the universal joint and install a constant velocity joint. Then realign and put most of ALL the angles into the CVJ. Smooth as silk.

                      [ATTACH=CONFIG]81790[/ATTACH]

                      more details here

                      https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....ht=drive+shaft
                      Yours looks like the best answer, albeit also likely the most expensive. Thanks!

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                      • #26
                        UPDATE - One piece drive shaft installed, road tested, problem completely eliminated...

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
                          UPDATE - One piece drive shaft installed, road tested, problem completely eliminated...
                          Thanks for the update. I believe the Stude 2-piece was designed to have some wobble. I have removed the carrier bearing rubber mounts, deeply grooved all the way around, and they did not get that way from holding the driveshaft up. Never heard of anyone running one at speed, on a lift to observe the 2-piece in motion. Even if they had, it would need to be under load (pushing the car down the highway) to be an accurate inspection. Glad you got it solved. If need be, just go under the car and massage any areas needing extra clearance for the 1-piece. It ain't gonna hurt anything. Glad you are on the road now! Keep on Studebakering.
                          Last edited by JoeHall; 06-21-2019, 07:26 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Dick S used a 2 piece shaft in his gorgeous 53 Hardtop. It had a hi perf 327 and a 4 speed. He said he never had problems with it.
                            sals54

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