Results 1 to 28 of 28

Thread: Project 62 hawk

  1. #1
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    California
    Posts
    7

    Project 62 hawk

    Okay so my wife is a fresh owner of a 62 hawk her grandfather left to her. It is in decent shape well a good start. The car sat for about 10 years here in California, but Herein lies the problems for starters the power steering pump is no good, also the rear right wheel locks up when I tighten the lugs? I replaced the shoes and checked the drum but I don’t see an issue I’m just dumbfounded by this? I drove the car around for about 10min and the wheel felt very tight so I lifted the rear end to check and it was almost in turn able so I proceeded to unassemble and find the odd issue. Than I limped it into the garage and the left side tires went flat followed by the power steering puking atf so the tires might have been the issue there.

  2. #2

  3. #3
    President Member tsenecal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Elko NV
    Posts
    1,043
    Sounds like Grandpas car needs a little TLC due to lack of use. Not sure what to think of the brake issue. Is the drum pushing in far enough to hit the backing plate? Or the tire and wheel may have to much offset, allowing it to hit the chassis when tightened down. It may not be the wheel that was on the car when it was being driven. There should be others here that will have some ideas to check. The power steering pump may need to be rebuilt or replaced, but you could try fresh oil. Things could be a little sticky with the oil being 10 years old. Hope you get things figured out, and squared away, so that you can enjoy driving it.

  4. #4
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Tracy / Goleta Ca.
    Posts
    1,326
    The brake drum should have been swaged onto the hub. If the drum was pulled off over the swages without grinding the swages away first, it's likely bent and binding against the brake shoes. If the swages were removed before removing the drum and the drum is not bent, it may not be sitting correctly over the sholders of the lug studs and twisting when tightened; binding the drum against the brake shoes.

    New fluid might help the steering pump, it did with mine, but check that the hose fittings are tight. They are very difficult to get a wrench on and tighten well. It could also be leaking where the resrevoir is attached to the pump, check that while it's empty when you change fluid.

  5. #5
    President Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    1,839
    Someone correct me if I am wrong, but that does look like an original pressed on Hub/Drum. If so, then you probably need to replace it, as they are a unit and takes a special puller to get off..
    Someone really needs to produce a youtube video on this and make a sticky. Looks like you have a ruined drum assembly. How did you pull it off?

  6. #6
    President Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hawthorne, California, USA.
    Posts
    1,980
    Where in California are you located as there are people here that may be able to help you with your problems? If you pulled the drum off of the hub, it is almost a guarantee that you will have to replace the drum. Bud

  7. #7
    President Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Westbrook, MN
    Posts
    875
    ditto; be sure axle is shimmed correctly and then replace the drum.

  8. #8
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis
    Posts
    4,909
    In the first picture, I hope the shoes simply got bumped upward, because those 2 pins from the wheel cylinder sure are at the wrong angle.

  9. #9
    Speedster Member 56GH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Sarasota, FL
    Posts
    401
    Is that the correct wheel cylinder? It looks a little long to me -- but maybe it's just the photo. Here's what my 1962 GT Hawk rear wheel looks like with flanged axles.

    IMG_2947.jpg IMG_2950.jpg
    Bill L.
    1962 GT Hawk

  10. #10
    Golden Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Wappingers Falls, New York, USA.
    Posts
    22,249
    How did you remove the brake drum? Was it previously disconnected from the hub?
    The brake shoes and/or the wheel cylinder appear to be incorrect.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  11. #11
    President Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Joliet , Illinois
    Posts
    2,966
    Yes I agree that someone pulled the drums from the hubs and should not have done that!
    Many times people have problems removing the hub and drum assembly and after they get them off
    and want to reinstall them they put some anti-seize or grease on the taper.
    That is wrong! The taper on the axle shaft should be clean and dry and so should be the inside of the hub , no lubricant.
    If you put anti-seize or grease on the taper , when you tighten the nut on the axle the taper will keep going on too far and crack the hub. The brake drum will rack up on the backing plate.

  12. #12
    President Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Joliet , Illinois
    Posts
    2,966
    [QUOTE=56GH;1160066]Is that the correct wheel cylinder? It looks a little long to me -- but maybe it's just the photo. Here's what my 1962 GT Hawk rear wheel looks like with flanged axles.

    IMG_2947.jpg IMG_2950.jpg
    Those are not flanged axles.
    Someone pulled the drums off the hubs and probably ruined the drums by removing them without first cutting the stacked area around the studs.

  13. #13
    Commander Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    41
    Captain Red Beard, FWIW I think the shoes are wrong, you should have a primary shoe that has a shorter lining, the circumference doesn't look right and if they are binding the depth of the shoe could be wrong. Cheers

  14. #14
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Tracy / Goleta Ca.
    Posts
    1,326
    If the drums have been PROPERLY removed from the hubs, there is no problem using them as a seperate piece from the hub, as long as stock lug studs are used so they will center the drum. It shouldn't matter but I do make sure to put the drum back on the hub in the same place it originally was; just because.

  15. #15
    President Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia.
    Posts
    625
    I'd think there is something strange about the wheel cylinder push rods in the photo from Captain Red Beard. I've worked on a few different make cars and always the pushrods have been in a straight line, like in the photo from 56H.

  16. #16
    Commander Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    41
    Are the wheel cylinder pistons correct size. Cheers

  17. #17
    President Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    1,839
    I agree with rkapteyn, possible that the hub may be racked up, also if the wrong puller was used to remove the drum at some point, that could be a problem too.....
    Then again it may just have been done this way on purpose, as I would have done so at some point after properly removing the assembly and seperating the 2 and installing new studs without the swage as an experiment.

  18. #18
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Poteau, OK
    Posts
    281
    Blog Entries
    1
    There is something askew with the wheel cylinder and how the push rods are at an angle. Are the brake shoes the correct ones? The setup is not correct.

  19. #19
    President Member SScopelli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1,511
    Yes, the rear drum should be penned to the wheel studs, but that is not the issue.

    I think you have the front shoes on the rear, or just the wrong size rear shoes, as in big drum rear shoes..

    These will never work.

    That is why the rods from the wheel cylinder are at an angle

  20. #20
    President Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    1,839
    Holy CR4P. I just noticed, it's in post# 2? That's seriously FUBAR. yeah, I think you pegged it. better check and see what shoes go on there, that don't look right.

  21. #21
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    California
    Posts
    7
    ok ill check the shoes and report back i hope its not the drums because i havnt found one less than $200
    also someone asked where i am located i am in so cal specifically meniffee.

  22. #22
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Los Altos CA, USA
    Posts
    343
    It looks like the pistons are seized in the wheel cylinder as they seem to be sticking out further than normal. Forcing the drum off has caused them to ride up.

  23. #23
    Speedster Member 56GH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Sarasota, FL
    Posts
    401
    [QUOTE=rkapteyn;1160093]
    Quote Originally Posted by 56GH View Post
    Is that the correct wheel cylinder? It looks a little long to me -- but maybe it's just the photo. Here's what my 1962 GT Hawk rear wheel looks like with flanged axles.

    IMG_2947.jpg IMG_2950.jpg
    Those are not flanged axles.
    Someone pulled the drums off the hubs and probably ruined the drums by removing them without first cutting the stacked area around the studs.
    My bad! Whoever did before I had the car sure made it easy for me when I replaced the drums bought from S-I though! The new-looking studs were installed perfectly and the drum fits tightly over them.

    IMG_2946.jpg
    Bill L.
    1962 GT Hawk

  24. #24
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Kentucky, USA.
    Posts
    6,173
    Whatever the problem is, it should be easy to diagnose. There is NO problem with running the drums free floating on the hubs. The swedging from yesterdecade was overkill, and most car companies that stayed in business into the 70s-80s dropped the idea. The external bevel on the lug nuts, when drawn down into the internal bevel on the wheels, (combined with the squish between the wheel backside and hub flange) will center the wheel and hold it there, and take up the side load when the brakes are applied. The holes in your drum appear to be in good condition. But if the wheel holes are wallowed out, that's a problem in itself.

    As long as the drum in not warped it should be OK, and warpage is easy enough to check. Bolt the drum back on and spin it around, using a dial indicator to check runout.

    In looking at the pix, my guess: The drums were not turned when new shoes were installed. The un-turned drums have became bell-mouthed, and when you tighten the lug nuts, they bind on the outer edges of the new shoes. Look closely at the edges of the shoes, and inside the drums near the wall for evidence. To test, back the shoe adjustment off by about 12 clicks and re-check the drag. If this is the problem, simply turn the drum (hopefully there's enough meat left), and don't forget to turn the other drum while you are at it. Make sure the lathe operator cuts the drum all the way back to the wall, or that will create other problems.
    Last edited by JoeHall; 06-13-2019 at 02:51 PM.

  25. #25
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Kentucky, USA.
    Posts
    6,173
    [QUOTE=56GH;1161167]
    Quote Originally Posted by rkapteyn View Post

    My bad! Whoever did before I had the car sure made it easy for me when I replaced the drums bought from S-I though! The new-looking studs were installed perfectly and the drum fits tightly over them.

    IMG_2946.jpg

    That is what I call a, "free floating" drum, and is an excellent replacement. Notice there is about 500 percent more, "meat" in the area around the stud holes. Not that the OEM thin, tin area there was ever a problem, but the extra meat is nice. It calls for longer studs though.

  26. #26
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    California
    Posts
    7
    Okay so after checking I found the slave was frozen but to my luck I was digging around the trunk and found a brand new set guess the old man was already on the right path lol
    Last edited by Captain_Red_Beard; 06-15-2019 at 02:59 PM.

  27. #27
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    California
    Posts
    7
    Okay so now that all that is sorted out since I replaced the brake cylinder now it’s leaking from the line that connects to there should I replace the line or is there supposed to be a seal?

  28. #28
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis
    Posts
    4,909
    The brake lines seal with a double flare, while the hoses seal with a copper flat washer. Where exactly is the leak?

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •