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Thread: Cast iron headers not fitting

  1. #1
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    Cast iron headers not fitting

    I'm having second thoughts about trying to replace my exhaust manifolds with cast iron headers. I have a '58 Silver Hawk with a mildly built 289 & 700R4. I also have Saganaw power steering. I removed my old stainless header pipes and test fit the new ones I got with the headers. The new driver's side pipe is shorter and might fit if the starter wasn't in the way. The old pipe angles slightly forward and then curves under the starter. The new pipe angles to the rear, where the starter is. Anyone else have this problem? By the way, this is my first time posting... thanks for any help.

  2. #2
    Speedster Member
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    I haven’t got a clue if this will work and you probably have tried it already.

    Have you tried swapping sides with your new manifolds? Is the driver side manifold your trying to install the passenger one?

    I’m guilty of this

  3. #3
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    The R3 & R4 headers use a different set of Head Pipes, but also were never fitted to a Saginaw Power Steering Car, since those were not used after '57 except on Packards, so you are on your own there.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  4. #4
    Silver Hawk Member
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    Here in my small neck of the world we have a shop that can/will bend exhaust pipe to about any shape. If all else fails, find one in your area and have them custom bend to your needs.

    Good luck, Bob
    , ,

  5. #5
    Commander Member
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    You might be able to use 3/8"spacers under the engine and transmission mounts to clear the power steering box.

  6. #6
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    My '62 has the same engine and headers, but with bendix power steering and all those hoses and control valve in the way. The drivers side head pipe drops straight down then makes a 45 then another 45 to go under the starter. The passenger side head pipe angles to the rear so as to clear the steering damper then makes a 45 to go rearward.
    You should have even more clearance same as me becaust the Ford starter (at least the one I'm using)is half the size of the Stude one.
    IMG_0723.jpgThis pic is before I swapped the trans.
    IMG_1044.jpgIMG_1043.jpgThis is with the 4L60. Same exhaust.
    Last edited by bensherb; 05-17-2019 at 02:31 PM.

  7. #7
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Rick, (bensherb) it appears you may have modified original Stude. head pipes for the Stock Manifolds or totally custom made ones?

    Like I said, it's all about those head pipes. When I got my R3 Headers at Paxton Products Div. they came with special Pipes to fit R3 Headers in a C or K Model.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 05-17-2019 at 03:25 PM.

  8. #8
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    Rick, (bensherb) it appears you may have modified original Stude. head pipes for the Stock Manifolds or totally custom made ones?

    Like I said, it's all about those head pipes. When I got my R3 Headers at Paxton Products Div. they came with special Pipes to fit C and K Model headers.

    They are what was on the car when I got it, I assume a muffler shop made the head pipes. The rest of the exhaust is off the shelf after market replacement. The drivers side is easy, there is nothing in the way, just go strait down and make a 90 to go back, without the steering damper the right would be the same, but the damper requires a quick rearward angle to clear it. That quick angle makes getting to the rear flange stud a real pain.

  9. #9
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    Thankyou everyone for your replies. I have decided to put the old(Silvertone stainless) header pipes back on the original exhaustmanifolds, for the moment. The new drivers side header pipe won'twork. It has two 45 degree bends in it just like the new passengerside header pipe. I didn't even get as far as removing the oldexhaust manifolds. There used to be two custom exhaust shops in townthat could bend stainless, but both have closed up shop. I thinkthere might barely be enough room for the cast iron header next tothe Saginaw box, but it would be tight. Unlike stock manifolds, bothcast iron headers are the same. I had planned on moving my powersteering hoses to between the fender and steering box just to getthem away from the heat.
    Weare driving our Silver Hawk on a friends old car tour next month, so Idon't think I have time to work on making new parts fit right now.I will need a new pipe, assuming I can some day get the headerson.
    Bythe way, something I probably should have mentioned earlier is that Iam using the original Studebaker starter. After I (hesitantly) put aFord starter on the transmission adapter and started it, I did notlike the way it sounded. I cut the stud off of the adapter, enlargedthe hole where the starter snout went, and made an adapter to makethe original starter fit back on there. No problems (except for a newpipe not fitting?) but it sounds like a Studebaker when I start it.

  10. #10
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    Old vs New.jpgHere is a picture of the old (darker) and new pipes

  11. #11
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    DSC01803.jpg
    I figured out how to attach pictures!
    This is our '58 Silver Hawk.

  12. #12
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikenchanthy View Post
    Old vs New.jpgHere is a picture of the old (darker) and new pipes
    That new pipe looks like what is on mine on the drivers side. The passenger side has a bit different angles to clear the steering damper.

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