My 64 Commander.

[RyleeH]

Well made some more progress the last few days after 10-11hr work days. Sick today but I'll trick through tonight and see if I get it running.

I was having issues with belt alignment with Moroso P#63825 and after emailing them directly it dawned on me I don't need different pulleys but just to space their bracket forward 5/16" and I hit the front pulley of my water pump. Then I'll get a double groove swp crank pulley to get two belts between water pump and crank so make it look better. Using belts from Partsource #15305 and #15346. Also lesson learned to measure lengths needed with another v-groove belt for more accurate length, then getting that length plus next two sizes up. I first measured with wire and was short 3" each belt. Measured with belt I got alternator first try and third try for crank/water pump.

After I got the knob on my new Flex-a-lite rad fan combo for electronic thermostat control I realized I had a bad controller. I emailed them, sent pics of install and my invoice. As of yesterday i have a new controller on the way without me having to send anything back. Tech guy was pleasantly surprised when I told him I did not install P#51168 into what he thought would be a CJ Jeep.

Great customer service from both companies.

I'm fairly beginner mechanic in my own eyes so things are taking longer than I want but later tonight I plan to try timing the 350 and calling some friends to get my good back in place.

Here's my promised one pic per reply.

[Jerry Forrester]

Well made some more progress the last few days after 10-11hr work days. Sick today but I'll trick through tonight and see if I get it running.

I was having issues with belt alignment with Moroso P#63825 and after emailing them directly it dawned on me I don't need different pulleys but just to space their bracket forward 5/16" and I hit the front pulley of my water pump. Then I'll get a double groove swp crank pulley to get two belts between water pump and crank so make it look better. Using belts from Partsource #15305 and #15346. Also lesson learned to measure lengths needed with another v-groove belt for more accurate length, then getting that length plus next two sizes up. I first measured with wire and was short 3" each belt. Measured with belt I got alternator first try and third try for crank/water pump.

After I got the knob on my new Flex-a-lite rad fan combo for electronic thermostat control I realized I had a bad controller. I emailed them, sent pics of install and my invoice. As of yesterday i have a new controller on the way without me having to send anything back. Tech guy was pleasantly surprised when I told him I did not install P#51168 into what he thought would be a CJ Jeep.

Great customer service from both companies.

I'm fairly beginner mechanic in my own eyes so things are taking longer than I want but later tonight I plan to try timing the 350 and calling some friends to get my good back in place.

Here's my promised one pic per reply.

Is there a tensioner for the WP/CS belt?

[studegary]

Is there a tensioner for the WP/CS belt?

Good point. I do not see one unless it is obscured by the lower hose.

[RyleeH]

No tensioner. Had to muscle it in place. Belt sits tight, I'm not worried about that. I can add one if I have issues but I'm confident this will be fine.

[Jerry Forrester]

No tensioner. Had to muscle it in place. Belt sits tight, I'm not worried about that. I can add one if I have issues but I'm confident this will be fine.

No problem. That's how we used to run our dirt track cars back in the seventies and eighties. But we used the Corvette single/deep groove pullies. Had to pull the WP pulley to change the belt

[RyleeH]

Ya I needed to install pulley with belt on. Wasn't easy but I managed. Once I get a double groove crank pulley and add a second belt I can imagine it will be much harder to put back in place.

[Jerry Forrester]

Ya I needed to install pulley with belt on. Wasn't easy but I managed. Once I get a double groove crank pulley and add a second belt I can imagine it will be much harder to put back in place.

Much easier if you remove the WP pulley.

[RyleeH]

Had some more learning experiences this weekend. So after charging the battery twice, a boost from my ranger finally got it started. But that was only after I removed the valve covers again to verify tdc. I found an awesome video regarding motorcycles that helped a lot to explain tdc on 4-stroke engines. Turned out I was 180° off the compression stroke, i originally set it when valves were overlapping open.
Turns out I didnt install my transmission inspection cover very well so the pressure plate made some bad noise once I finally got the timing right and started.


After I got it running I tested my new rad/fan combo which is also awesome by the way. Flexalite customer service is great. The new controller showed up and was an easy install. Loosened rad shroud holding bolts slid it up just enough to under controller cover and just five wire connections to mess with.

Wanted to go for a test drive after I begged a friend to come help put the hood back on. So I had to pull up front and have Ranger save the day again. I didnt get the cig lighter in car working so used the trucks and my crappy compressor to get up air pressure in my front driver tire.


Before the test drive I noticed a slight squeaking noise. Sounds like regrets of not doing clutch release bearing while I had easy access. But before calling it a day I reached under and generously sprayed white lithium grease in through the clutch fork hole since I dont have a cover. Started the car, moved the clutch a bunch, no noise. I'm still gonna order a new one and be ready when its needed, IF I got away with it this time.

Re-aligned my ford brake light switch right at the pedal so my lights dont stay on at all times. I know stock the switch is on the master, I'm getting there, bear with me.

Im super excited now and going to drive it to work tomorrow. But now that I'm running I can focus on all the small things. Like door panels, sill plates, window cranks, etc. Never ending list that I'm totally fine with.

[RyleeH]

Now I'm just chasing small leaks and starting to clean up appearance more. I thought I had oil leaks under control until I put a better sealing oil fill cap to stop dirty valve covers and the timing cover gasket failed horribly. So yesterday I frantically changed that in 4.5hrs, changed the oil and all. I sit below the half mark on the temp gauge with my new flex-a-lite system, still spitting out a bit of coolant but will try changing up to a 19lb rad cap from my current 16lb to solve that. My local performance shop guy gave me the rad cap advice, he has been great with me.

Was able to take a highway cruise to another members house yesterday to ask for advice for repair of the front door panels I have from the parts car I had. He offered to tinker on them himself which would be awesome, but I'd rather do it myself to learn. He said I can call anytime for advice, I like that more. While I was there I drooled over a Hawk(I think) that he is working on. Very grateful for his advice and the time he takes to explain things to me. Thanks George!

Yesterday as well I ordered some parts which I just picked up. Carb spacer, double v-groove crank pulley and this nice edelbrock air cleaner. Should help the engine breathe better and space my fuel line off the coolant line, only reason for the carb spacer. Everything should start looking like it's meant to be soon.

[Jerry Forrester]

still spitting out a bit of coolant but will try changing up to a 19lb rad cap from my current 16lb to solve that. My local performance shop guy gave me the rad cap advice, he has been great with me.

Rylee, it sounds like you're having too much fun. Slow down, you're gonna burst your fun meter.
I wouldn't go with a stronger radiator cap, if anything I'd go with a 14lb. cap and install a coolant recovery tank. Your car, your money, your decision.

[RyleeH]

Ya I might be overthinking the coolant situation. Went for another car wash to clean up some oil underneath and the rad keeps at a level about 2" from the top of tank. I have a small overflow tank. So I'll just monitor the situation and if it gets lower then I'll look into other solutions. Believe I just have to do more cleaning underneath to get rid of any drips now.

Bringing it to work the next few days should help dry it off, supposed to be 38C tomorrow and the next day. Won't put the carb spacer or air cleaner on until I get all the excess oil and coolant cleaned out of the engine bay.

[RyleeH]

Was driving my car last week chasing small issues, thinking I was winning the battle until Friday after work. Started to try diagnose the issue and well I did find it.

I started with simple diagnoses and worked my way in. Timing was off, spark plugs were fine, distributor was fine, I hadn't seemed to skip a tooth on the timing chain. Tore off the valve covers and found a piece of valve seal, pulled the heads, removed the valve in question, to find this. Valve guide is ovalled. I didnt pull more valves to see but the way a few wiggled, it's a safe bet more are pooched.

Today I dropped the heads off at a local machine shop where they said as early as next week I could have them back. Hoping for no unexpected surprises. I'll get my act together this week (evenings after work and sunday) to pull the block out and do the throwout bearing. I'll be doing my best to have it back on the road in 2-3 weeks.

Had the carb spacer and edelbrock air cleaner on last week. It looked like I had under an inch of clearance from the hood. But the hood springs rub it just so slightly, I'll be okay with it for now.

On a good note my custom license plate showed up at my house today!


Attended a local car show sunday where 5 studebakers were showing. Awesome cars.

[junior]

I re-read your post about the t/o bearing. if that squeaking noise is like a bird chirping with no tension on the clutch pedal then there is a good chance that the ball stud of the clutch fork needs some grease. usually a bad t/o bearing will squeal when you engage the clutch pedal. if you are replacing the t/o bearing, buy a good one, not a cheap one...ask me how I know.

looks like you have roller rocker arms...check to make sure they are contacting the center of the valve stems, if not they can cause all kinds of issues...pooched valve guide being one of them. There is lots of info on the net about this, and a lot of issues have to do with cheap rip-off off shore rocker arms. cheers, junior

[RyleeH]

Surprise! So machineshop said on Thursday it wasn't worth machining the heads I brought in. Ordered up some aluminum heads right away. While I was at my local store, we talked about fixing a crack in aluminum bellhousing. $55 and the bellhousing is fixed. Looking at my release bearing after removal and its pooched, picked up national 614083. Trying to find a clutch pilot bearing now and start assembly, hope I find near me for a decent price tomorrow. Push rods will be here monday.
Well yesterday I picked up the new heads.


Hopefully no longer than another week without the car.

[RyleeH]

Back together again now. Ordered up ram horn manifolds with 2.5" collectors, hooked up new speedometer cable(pioneer ca3002 from Borg warner t10 to factory stude gauge), and finished putting everything together to start it up for the first time last night. Only took a couple tries of the key until it fired.
Just going to fix up the steering column wiring tonight and have exhaust done in a shop tomorrow and its a driveable project again. Oh and get headlights and bezels back in.


I'm really liking all the shine under the hood now. Over winter I'll pick away at it more. Valve covers, pump, alt pulleys and whatever else I can.