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Thread: My 64 Commander.

  1. #41
    President Member Flashback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by junior View Post
    If you are swapping a Dana 44 with tapered axle shafts for the S-10 rear axle I'm thinking I would just leave the S-10 rear end in there. If the 44 has the flanged axles, then it would probably be worth your time. Right now your tire size and wheel combo looks like a good fit... one advantage of the s-10 rear is how narrow it is letting you run those rear wheels with hardly any back-spacing. Kind of adds to the retro-muscle look of your car. Don't know why the car has such long shackles on the rear springs (another retro-muscle car thing)...but if you go back to stock length then maybe you will get the stance you are looking for. just a couple of thoughts. cheers, Junior Btw...that 58 Stude hardtop is awesome!

    I will agree with Junior on the S-10 rear end. I worked the spacing out on my 53 to get a pair of early corvette 8" wheels under it sitting a little lower than stock.

  2. #42
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    I always forget which d44 it is, but it came from a 65 Daytona with 283 and has the finned drum brakes, 3.07 gears. The main advantage I see for the swap is it "seems" more stock. At this point I'm fairly convinced the car was a 6cyl w/ d27 rear but only the production order will prove that. So other than seats it would look stock exterior.
    So it's not so much of stance that I want, so much as a heavy duty stock suspension. Front is stock. I got my hands on some Studebaker traction bars to go along with the axle as well. Aluminum to be machined for front leaf spring bushings, drill a zerk into spring for greasing yet. Go back to the stock 4.5" shackles.

    Today I went out to the 1/4 mile track for the day. Had some issues with the car that prevented me from making more than one run. But that didnt prevent me from having a blast! I was slower than last year as you'll see by the slips in pic. I was car 877 this year and comparing to my best three of last year as car 800. I spun the tires on the track until 3rd gear. But when I finally grabbed the car took off really well.


    I'll solve my little temperature problems from today and be back at the track asap. I'm thinking lower temp thermostat and a shorter fuel rail to get fuel line to not touch my coolant line. I removed my 1/2" carb spacer since i was hitting hood springs with air filter.

  3. #43
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    The Serial Number will tell whether it started as a six or V8 and whether it was built in South Bend or Hamilton. You don't need the Production Order for that much.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
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  4. #44
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    Well according to a supplement I have, the car that was sold to me as a 64 is actually a 65 six cylinder car. But the production order will verify these things, tell me what axle(probably safe to assume d28 though) and and other specifics I might want to change back to. I'm curious if paint is correct colour for my car. Production order will help with a lot.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by studegary View Post
    The Serial Number will tell whether it started as a six or V8 and whether it was built in South Bend or Hamilton. You don't need the Production Order for that much.
    I looked at the pictures in your previous posts. I do not know why you refer to it as a 1964 Daytona or even a 1965 Daytona. The car started as a six cylinder (GM engine) 1965 Commander two door sedan (all 1965s built in Hamilton).
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

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  6. #46
    Golden Hawk Member 8E45E's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyleeH View Post
    I'm curious if paint is correct colour for my car. Production order will help with a lot.
    Your photos show it to be Laguna Blue metallic, which was used both in 1964 and 1965. Your body color label might still be attached to the underside of your glove compartment. If not, the Production Order will verify.

    Craig

  7. #47
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    So to clarify more. I dont know if the body tags are actually correct for the car. Door tag for sure is.

    Craig it does seem to be Leguna Blue Metallic like this 64 color chart, I do not have a 65 chart. Nothing stuck anywhere in the blue dash, it's fairly mutilated from extra gauges, aftermarket radio, lights, switches, and speakers.


    I bought the car being told it was a 1964 Commander that originally had a ford motor.
    I am confident that is false and is a 1965 Commander that had the 6 cylinder.
    This car was badly mismatched to keep on the road. Insurance record in my area shows the car registered as this "vin", obviously wrong back in 1997. Apparently car was painted near this year.


    Gary, the parts car I had torn apart and saved every good piece to store inside my home and garage was a 1965 Daytona, that's the only Daytona I owned. It was red paint, white vynil top with a black interior, front buckets, 283 and auto.

    Certain things about the car just dont jive. I wish I had taken many more pictures when i brought the car home the first time, it would explain a lot more.

  8. #48
    Golden Hawk Member 8E45E's Avatar
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    As I stated, Laguna Blue was also listed for 1965:



    You have to crawl on your back on the passenger side and look on the underside of the glove compartment for something like this, provided it hasn't fallen off:



    Craig

  9. #49
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    The "Cii8748" on the title document is really C118748, a 1965 six cylinder car. Studebaker used an I for a 1.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
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  10. #50
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    Cool, thanks Craig. I hadn't seen a 65 chart yet. No tags under the blue dash to help me. The dash was full of ribbed switches, isnt that pre- 1965?

  11. #51
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    Your picture shows where the color label used to be.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

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  12. #52
    Golden Hawk Member 8E45E's Avatar
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    At least two 'giveaways' to me that confirm your car was built deep into the 1965 model run: the suspended accelerator pedal and your windshield washer reservoir location. Early 1965 models had them next to the battery, and your car originally had a bag on the firewall below the body number. The bolt for the bracket is still in use, holding up a different bracket for a couple of relays, but not the original washer bag bracket.

    Craig
    Last edited by 8E45E; 05-06-2019 at 10:20 PM.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8E45E View Post
    At least to 'giveaways' to me that confirm your car was built deep into the 1965 model run: the suspended accelerator pedal and your windshield washer reservoir location. Early 1965 models had them next to the battery, and your car originally had a bag on the firewall below the body number. The bolt for the bracket is still in use, holding up a different bracket for a couple of relays, but not the original washer bag bracket.

    Craig
    I agree with the "deep into the 1965 model run" part. The Serial Number is a few higher than published ending numbers for 1965 six cylinder cars.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
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  14. #54
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    That's interesting to know about the accelerator pedal. Had a suspicion those relays that are for my starter and fuel pump hung where the washer fluid bag should be.

    It took a few months of ownership before I thought it could a 65, after the first chapter meeting I was convinced of it. But I will wait until I purchase a production order before i change the year on my registration or this thread.

  15. #55
    Golden Hawk Member 8E45E's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by studegary View Post
    I agree with the "deep into the 1965 model run" part. The Serial Number is a few higher than published ending numbers for 1965 six cylinder cars.
    I suspect the Production Order will show a mid-to-late August, 1965 assembly date. The twelve pre-production 1966 models, which were assembled in June of 1965, have lower 1965 body numbers:



    Craig

  16. #56
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    Couple updates here. I've changed from the HEI to the regular coil with small diameter distributor and some new wires to go along. Not long after I noticed the alternator was weak so I went to my usual parts shop and grabbed a chrome 120a alternator. Been a while sitting in the garage mostly fiddling with it to get it where I want it, but today I had a great test drive. I've got so much to learn about tuning stuff yet.

    A few weeks ago a few of us in the Saskatchewan Chapter brought our Studes out to Pike Lake Car show, I unfortunately forgot to take pictures. I had a blast hanging out with other members and car show enthusiasts. A member had a NOS hood emblem to sell me at the show as well!

    I'm pleased with the way things are right now. Initial timing set at 16°, Total 34° @2500rpm. I get 14.5-15in Hg Vacuum at 680rpm, my alternator kicks on at 800rpm, thermostat for electric fan set at 180°C, 185°C coolant thermostat in housing. My temp gauge rises right up near hot within 10 seconds of starting whether the car is hot or cold, must have a bad sender right now.
    Few more tweaks yet.

    Rear spring questions,
    Where to find bushings for the front mounts of the leaves? 65, 5 leaf pack
    What mopar springs are the good replacements?

  17. #57
    President Member junior's Avatar
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    IMO, having the fan set to come on 5 degrees cooler than when the t-stat opens is counter productive...why run the fan when the t-stat is not letting the coolant flow? Try setting the fan to come on about 10 degrees after the t-stat opens. In my car the electric fan rarely kicks in while I'm driving it unless its hotter than 25 C outside or I'm waiting in traffic. I have a 180 stat and set the fan to come on at 190.

    I'm pretty sure Stude vendors will have the spring bushings or you could try a local shop. Here in Calgary we're lucky to have Standens in town. Their parts guys are great and one guy is into Packards and really went the distance to help me out. They cross-referenced some bushings for my car and had them in stock. Since they build springs if you give them the specs they will build what you want, and their prices seemed reasonable to me when I dealt with them. I took my old springs to them to have them use as a pattern for making new ones and after explaining what I wanted they simply added a thicker second leaf. I was really concerned that the car would ride too rough and they were positive I would not even notice a difference...they were correct...didn't notice a difference and the car sat the way I wanted it to. They saved me a lot of $. I've also had them make custom U-bolts and both times I did this they did it while I waited.

    Keep on Studerbakering, good to have younger folks take an interest in the breed. cheers, junior

    1954 C5 Hamilton car.

  18. #58
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    Alright so update time again.

    I was trying to monitor my previous overheating issue, that's why fan thermostat set lower than mechanical. All is good, set higher now. My timing was set too advanced and a was way lean on the carb. That innova timing light has been a huge savior and a great teaching tool.

    I changed my temp sender which was a big part of my problem. After another attempt at tuning the car I went to the track and did my best yet, 14.52@98.48mph. I think I can learn to do better and be more consistent yet.

    I decided to go out for coffee run in the car last sunday. The clutch linkage decided to break when I got back into the car with my coffee to leave. At least i hadn't even moved the car let alone started it. I walked over to the nearest parts store, bought $45 of tools and took it apart there in the Tim's lot. Walked home(1.25hrs), welded it up, booted back with my Ranger and fixed it. Whole adventure lasted 4.5hrs.


    In the mean time I heard a noise on the way back from coffee and turns out i need to do some a-arm bushings. All my drivers are shot. Passengers on the way out. So contacted a supplier up here in Canada to send some over. This weekend i took my front end apart.


    I'm very thankful for the local chapter members to help guide me through repairs. Soon for the use of sandblasting equipment and install of new bushings as well.
    So right now the car sits without a front end in my garage. Waiting for bushings. I'm attempting to get all polyurethane for studebaker leaf springs in the rear. Everything is ordered and awaiting delivery at this point.

    Starting to shop for 15" rims and tires. Hoping to make the next street legal event and determined to make the August 18 car show/chapter meeting.

    Oh and if anyone can school me on ride heights according to springs please message me. I just took out springs 526132 from my car, matching 59s, 60s and 64s in 59-64 parts book. I also have 1561665 from parts car matching 64v in parts book. I like the ride height of my current 526132 springs but would like firmer. Advice on new shocks to match springs as well.
    Last edited by RyleeH; 07-21-2019 at 08:11 PM.

  19. #59
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    Another update in order.

    I chose to stay with the 6cyl 59-64 springs. Roughly cleaned up the springs and painted, until I get new. Sandlblasted the lower and upper A-arms at local members house. Thank you again George! Ordered all new bushings both sides from Trent Hills Auto and made a second order when I realized I needed spring insulators that weren't generic. Russ was great to deal with on the phone. Ordered 3way adjustable front shocks from Competition Engineering through my usual local Hardcore Performance, direct fit if the ears were 1/4" longer each, but I'll make these work. I'm super happy with how things are going and looking.




    Correct me if I'm wrong, 1970 Dodge Dart has same 7/8" shackle bushings upper and lower but 4-1/2" shackle length. I ordered new shackle and bushings from Prothane, should he here in a week or two to get those stude HD leaf springs under it.

    Anyways plan to have the car back together this August long weekend. I really wanna put that 14.5 in the dust this year.

  20. #60
    President Member Flashback's Avatar
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    Nice, interesting thread. I enjoy your posts !! HOWEVER, I am getting a crick in my neck. LOL

  21. #61
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    Thanks Flashback!

    I just got everything back together on my front end Wednesday night and the first few drives are going well now that I actually have front A-arm bushings. Could use an alignment but I'm getting there. Which brings me to my next project, the rear springs. My polyurethane shackle bushings showed up. I'll need to remove metal sleeves from stude springs to fit them, shouldnt be an issue.

    I'm getting more excited as I get more done and in my head gaining momentum.
    Looking into biggest rear tires I can fit now.

  22. #62
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    Wait for your alignment until you get your final tire sizes and stance.
    Gary L.
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    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  23. #63
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    I've been following this thread since new & I really like the looks of this car, it looks like a Studebaker; fast! & also quite modern, it vould easily been built 1968-72 if you look at other cars from those years as it's so modern looking & all it took was to ad a scoop, some black paint & cruel wheels!
    At least that's what I think, looking at US mucle car ads from that period.
    (But to fit wider wheels meaning inwards I think ruins the style...)


    Josephine
    -55
    Champion V8
    4d sedan

  24. #64
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    Got into work monday thinking I need time to work on the car and got back from my first appointment to book the rest of the week off. Street legal event tomorrow evening and a car show with the local chapter Aug.18!

    Noxnabaker, my springs install on the factory perches so I'm not tubbing the car. I'm just trying to fill the stock tubs as best I can. I think if I go a bit more negative offset with the 15x9 I can do slightly wider tire and still much taller. Also thank you for the kind words.

    I started removing the old junk rear suspension Saturday night after a couple hours of ripping around with a grin on my face from front end work. So happy with how the front turned out, I'd be okay losing an inch height though. Bolts were rusted into inner bushings and the sawzall came out quickly, I was not friendly. I burnt the rubber out of the 7/8" bushings in the frame, then used a hacksaw to cut a kerf in the outer sleeve so I could hammer and chisel them out. Wow was that tedious.
    Anyways I have all my rear back together now. It feels stiff jumping on the car in garage. Way better than before. All the polyurethane installed with ease. New hardware everywhere.

    So excited for my morning coffee run. Alarm set for 6am as if going to work. My neighbors love the car so I'm not worried about the noise. I constantly get comments about how they like the car or the time they see me putting into it.

    More soon. That's only the first 12hr day.

    Fuel tank sending unit, polish/shine, find a tachometer and get reverse lights working finally making my to-do list.
    Last edited by RyleeH; 08-13-2019 at 10:34 PM.

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