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Radiator leak best fix

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  • Cool/Heat: Radiator leak best fix

    The Studebaker radiator in my 57 Transtar is leaking from a few spots on the core and runs down the radiator into the tray at the bottom. Should I attempt to have it soldered or just look at having it re-cored?

  • #2
    Just not sure how much soldering needs done and not sure I want a shiny, new metal core on an otherwise pretty original truck. Also don't want to spend a fortune.

    Comment


    • #3
      Repaired or Re-Cored Radiators are painted all black, not too noticeable, but certainly are expensive, usually $500.00 and Up.

      It is best to ask your friendly nearby Radiator Shop if they will test it and find out if it can be patched up.

      They MAY not charge for testing or delete the charge when work is done on it.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        I have found most rad. shops wont patch old rad's. if leak can be seen and is on outer surface of core, remove rad. and clean tube as best as you can then dribble a little JB Weld on tube and let set overnight. old rad. cores are fragile and if hole is on tube facing into core cheapest way out is good stop leak after flushing out cooling system. other wise you must pony up for a new core. BTDT on lark where water pump went out and a hard stop let fan graze a crescent into core. 4years ago and JB Weld still holding and to this day and lark still on road. Patch,Pray and trust your common sense! Luck Doofus

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        • #5
          For less than $20 and a couple of hours draining and refilling the radiator. This worked great for me.
          Attached Files
          John
          1963 Avanti R2
          Marshall, VA

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          • #6
            Give Justice Brothers Stop Leak a try. Good product. See included video

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R131IYTVbiQ

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            • #7
              I believe that using a stop leak additive or trying to patch a worn out radiator core is a band aid at best. I've tried stop leak products for repairs and the repair usually fails on the freeway and leaves me with a leaking radiator and trying to get home without overheating the engine. Take the truck to your local radiator guys for an inspection. If they charge you anything, it won't be much. If the radiator needs to be re cored, I say to get it done as a burned up engine is a bunch more expensive to fix than paying for a re core now. Bud

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              • #8
                If you can see a leak from a tube--no radiator shop will "patch" it. It's a sign that the tube is corroded through, and just the first of many to follow. A new core or an aftermarket new one is the only solution. Patching from the outside may work, for a minute, hour, days, or even years-- till it doesn't--on a 100 degree day and your engine seizes up. Play it safe, do it right.

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                • #9
                  If you plan on driving it, step up spend the money and get it done right! Otherwise, you'll be in the middle of nowhere, when it fails, the cost will be 2-3 times more to get it fixed on the road, or get it towed home. NOT including the hassles that you'll have.

                  Jim
                  "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                  We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                  Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                  As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                  their Memorials!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by karterfred88 View Post
                    If you can see a leak from a tube--no radiator shop will "patch" it. It's a sign that the tube is corroded through, and just the first of many to follow. A new core or an aftermarket new one is the only solution. Patching from the outside may work, for a minute, hour, days, or even years-- till it doesn't--on a 100 degree day and your engine seizes up. Play it safe, do it right.
                    Thanks. That's the way I was leaning.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 52 Ragtop View Post
                      If you plan on driving it, step up spend the money and get it done right! Otherwise, you'll be in the middle of nowhere, when it fails, the cost will be 2-3 times more to get it fixed on the road, or get it towed home. NOT including the hassles that you'll have.
                      That's what I was thinking. Where I live it was regularly over 100 and up to 113 degrees last Summer. Thanks for the wise words.
                      Jim
                      Thanks. It was regularly over 100 and as hot as 113 this past Summer so I think that's the way I will go.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Sav View Post
                        The Studebaker radiator in my 57 Transtar is leaking from a few spots on the core and runs down the radiator into the tray at the bottom.<snip>
                        BTW; what pressure (P.S.I.) radiator cap are you using?

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                        • #13
                          If a new core is needed, I recommend a modern, HD core. They are equivalent to about a 5 row core, if one had been available. This is accomplished by 5/8" tubes versus 1/2", spaced 5/16" apart, versus 1/2". The end result is about 25 percent more tubes, each 25 percent larger. Also, more cooling fins per inch are included. Your cooling problems will be over, but it will cost $750 or more. I paid around $750, about five years ago.

                          If you plan to drive in every clime and place, a quality, HD radiator is absolutely necessary, IMHO.

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                          • #14
                            I ended up ordering the Champion Cooling CC4952.... Not a perfect fit as the lower hose connection for my V8 was troublesome in that i had to make a custom "hose" to clear the fan belt. Also, it's shorter than the original, but it sure cools well... aluminum, so the fins bend easily.

                            $175 if I remember right.....

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                            • #15
                              recored rad

                              I had mine done 5 years ago . Now it is leaking again and turning green. It was over $500 to have it done the first time. Not looking forward to getting it done again. This was done by the major player of rads in my area. I would expect a recore to last a hell of a lot longer. Not happy.

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