Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Moog CC655 coil springs

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    On a coil spring, does it really matter which end is up, as long as both are installed the same way?
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

    Comment


    • #32
      I just got a quote from Eaton Detroit Spring for my buddy's Lark....they have an online quote tool.....I inquired about super lark spring, they even knew what I was talking about. https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        I know a LOT of you have installed these replacement springs, and some of you quite a few, so my Son is doing a set and is unsure of the best way to do that on a '61 Lark HT Frame.

        We have the SPO8055 Precision Springs, and it appears from the posts here that the Close Coils do install up at the top, but that puts the ROUND End of the Spring DOWN and the Flattened End UP. The Upper end on this set does have the rubber "Wrap" on the close Coils.

        But I have a question: Does the absolute END of the Bottom rounded Coil point Straight at the Engine or a bit Forward or Back or what?

        I have to wonder how well it will work with that Round end on the "A" Arm without a "Seat" to lock into as was probably the case on GM Cars?

        As you all know, Studebaker Springs are flattened and Level on BOTH Ends.

        Will they be OK without the Rubber insulators?
        On that spring it really is a flat end. Set it on the floor and you will see the spring will stand nearly straight upright. It just is not ground. All I do is radius the end of the coil so there is no sharp corner. Rotational I put the lower end towards the outside and the close coils go to the top. I use a Studebaker insulator on the top. They have been in my Superlark since 1993 with no problem. They are great.
        james r pepper

        Comment


        • #34
          Thank you very much Jim, that is exactly what we were looking for!
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

          Comment


          • #35
            Hi gang. I received my Precision springs today. Compared to my stock springs, they appear to be about an 1-1 1/2" shorter. Does this translate into a shorter ride height or are the springs stiffer and my Hawk will retain a stock ride height? I am looking for stock. Thanks.

            Comment


            • #36
              Just put a set of these in my GT a month ago. I noticed that they were shorter too. They are considerably stiffer so the ride height is not affected too much. I did notice that the front appears to be a bit lower but not much if any. I recently repaired the rear springs and added a leaf. Made the rear so high that I had to lower it an inch with lowering blocks, as a result the front may not be that low but the rear may still be too high. I'm more concerned with what Jim just said about locating the the bottom coil in the control arm. I positioned mine the same as the originals, with the end of the coil to the inside. I considered putting the bottom coil to the outside but decided to put it in the original position. Don't know if it really makes a difference, not going to change it now.

              Roger List
              Roger W. List
              Proud Studebaker Owner

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by Roger L. View Post
                Just put a set of these in my GT a month ago. I noticed that they were shorter too. They are considerably stiffer so the ride height is not affected too much. I did notice that the front appears to be a bit lower but not much if any. I recently repaired the rear springs and added a leaf. Made the rear so high that I had to lower it an inch with lowering blocks, as a result the front may not be that low but the rear may still be too high. I'm more concerned with what Jim just said about locating the the bottom coil in the control arm. I positioned mine the same as the originals, with the end of the coil to the inside. I considered putting the bottom coil to the outside but decided to put it in the original position. Don't know if it really makes a difference, not going to change it now.

                Roger List

                Thank you Roger, that makes me feel a bit better. Did handling improve? Is the ride too stiff? Looking to have a nice ride, but not like a 1950's Caddy that floats down the road.

                Comment


                • #38
                  I feel that it handles quite a bit better. It doesn't dive into a turn nearly as bad as before, it actually corners pretty flat now. Besides the new springs I also replaced all the inner control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings. I also replaced the steering arms with the quick steering Avanti arms. That cut the lock to lock steering down to about 3 1/2 turns, I do have power steering so steering effort doesn't appear to be affected at all. I'm also using the Gabriel gas shocks. I do still need to get the front end aligned yet, but from the short test drives that I've made I'm quite satisfied.

                  Roger List
                  Roger W. List
                  Proud Studebaker Owner

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Roger L. View Post
                    I feel that it handles quite a bit better. It doesn't dive into a turn nearly as bad as before, it actually corners pretty flat now. Besides the new springs I also replaced all the inner control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings. I also replaced the steering arms with the quick steering Avanti arms. That cut the lock to lock steering down to about 3 1/2 turns, I do have power steering so steering effort doesn't appear to be affected at all. I'm also using the Gabriel gas shocks. I do still need to get the front end aligned yet, but from the short test drives that I've made I'm quite satisfied.

                    Roger List

                    Thanks. I'll go ahead and install them. Sounds like a good thing.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      So just checking, will the cc655 or sp08055 be the right one for my 60 lark V-8 ?
                      Last edited by Mo-Baker; 03-04-2020, 10:26 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Mo-Baker View Post
                        So just checking, will the cc655 or sp08055 be the right one for my 60 lark V-8 ?
                        I have installed three pairs of the MOOG CC655s in two GT Hawks and one 56 Golden Hawk. If the SP08055 is same as the MOOG, I am pretty sure you will love the results in your Lark V8.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Yes they will work in your V8 Lark. I am bringing a few sets to South Bend for the May swap meet if anyone needs them.
                          james r pepper

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Hello, I'm starting out on a '66 Daytona 2 door sport sedan. Engine is the Chevy 230 six cylinder, which quite a bit lighter than the Stude V8. I think about 400 lbs, but I'm not sure. Does anyone have a recommendation for front coil springs?

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by HawkBuilder View Post
                              Hello, I'm starting out on a '66 Daytona 2 door sport sedan. Engine is the Chevy 230 six cylinder, which quite a bit lighter than the Stude V8. I think about 400 lbs, but I'm not sure. Does anyone have a recommendation for front coil springs?
                              If you go to post #3 (on page 1 of this thread), I mention the vehicle that these Moog springs were originally built for. One of the things noted is that the vehicle was offered from the factory with variable rate springs as an option - but not at the upgraded rate that the Moog springs are (hence why the Moogs are termed "Cargo Carrier"). The springs I mention MIGHT be helpful with a 6 cylinder engines weight.

                              This link will take you to more information (scroll down to post #5) https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....-front-springs and once there, there is yet another link at the end of that post.
                              A direct link to that post is here: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....ghlight=spring
                              From this post there is a lot of discussion further down.
                              '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X