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Dip Stick vs oil pan

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  • Engine: Dip Stick vs oil pan

    I seem to have some discrepancy in my oil pan / dipstick combination. This is a full flow V8 engine. The oil pan is what was on the car when I bought it. I purchased a new dip stick from SI because the original looked like it had been run over by a train.

    The first time I put oil in the engine, I put in 5 qts and then primed the engine. It then took 2 more qts to bring the oil up to the full level on the stick. 7 qts total.

    I was afraid this was too much so I drained the oil out of the pan, leaving the filter on the engine. I then added 5 qts back. Checked the level and it was just above the low mark on the dipstick.

    So here are my questions:
    1. Did Studebaker make a high capacity pan and if they did how can it be identified?

    2. During a full flow engine oil change, do you guys fill the filter before installation and then add 5 qts to the pan or do you just poor in 5 qts and allow the pump to fill the filter. If you let the pump fill the filter where does your oil level end up on the dipstick after you run the engine?

    3. To be sure SI sent me the correct dipstick, what is the correct length from the full mark to the top of the stick where it seats on the oil fill tube? I would appreciate it if someone would measure theirs. Can't believe I just asked people to measure their dipstick.

    Thanks
    Wayne
    "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

    sigpic

  • #2
    Sounds to me that you have the correct dipstick. I have found that if you add 6 us quarts to a "dry" engine, the indicated level on the dipstick, after a short run and drain-down, will be about 1/3 quart above the "add oil" line. My current experience indicates that the 1st 200 mile trip will drop the level to the "add oil" line where it will remain for the next 1500-2000 miles, assuming you have a good engine with positive valve seals. When you add oil at oil change to a "wet" engine, you have to account for the oil retained in the rocker shafts, galleys, oil pump and valley pockets. My recommendation when dealing with a "dry" engine, is to measure and add the specified 6 quarts, run the engine for 200 mile trip and the adjust the dipstick tube to bring the oil level after a 2 day drain-down to the full level.
    It seems that these engines, with a 6 qt. amount contained, will still volatilize some oil in the crankcase before stabilizing.

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    • #3
      Have you compared the replacement dipstick with the original dipstick for length and position of markings?
      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

      17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
      10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
      56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
      60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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      • #4
        I think the original dipstick was trashed long ago. I knew it would never be used due to condition and that they were available from SI. I will have to go through my left over parts cabinet to see if it is still have it, but I don't think I do.
        Wayne
        "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

        sigpic

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        • #5
          Found the original dip stick. Tried it in the engine. It reads exactly full. The engine currently has 5 qts in the pan with an oil filter that was already full. When laid side by side the new dipstick is about 1/2" different from the original. Unfortunately I have a hard time trusting the old dip stick because I can see where it was welded back together.

          So I guess I would still like to get a measurement from someone else.
          Wayne
          "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

          sigpic

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          • #6
            I believe the oil pans in the C/K models had a longer, and just slightly shallower, sump than the sedans. When I put the 289 from a '63 Lark in to my '53 Coupe I had to use the Coupe pan, pump and dipstick.
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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            • #7
              Wayne, mine is exactly 23.5 inches from the tip to the hilt. This is on a 64 Champ 259 though, so I don't know if it's apples to apples.
              Mike Davis
              Regional Manager, North Carolina
              1964 Champ 8E7-122 "Stuey"

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              • #8
                Thanks for the replies. I was doing some searching and think I may have discovered my problem. I was thinking that the full flow Stude V8 needed 5 qts for an oil and filter change. There have been several discussions on the forum that indicate that an oil change requires 5 qts but changing the oil and filter requires 6 qts.
                Wayne
                "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Of course it does, all Std. V8's after '55 have 5 Qt. Oil Pans with a 1 Qt. Oil Filter if using the Full Size NAPA Gold #1049 (by WIX) or cross reference spin-on Filter.
                  Many times when a dipstick does not read correctly, it's the TWO Dipstick TUBES they go into, that are wrong or installed incorrectly.

                  It is not a big deal about filling the filter first, I usually just make it 1/4 to 1/3 Full or not at all, start it, add the rest of the 6 Qt. Fill and call it good. No harm will be done as long as you let it slow idle.

                  If you are concerned about the bearings getting pre-Oiled especially on a first start up, you can pull the Coil Wire and crank until you have 40 to 70 P.S.I. on the Gauge.
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                  • #10
                    I wish it was so obvious for us new comers to the Stude world. The manual states the crankcase has a 5 qt capacity. Doesn't say anything about an extra qt for the filter. Since the stated 5 qt's matches up with every other V8 I have owned, I didn't think about needing an extra qt for the filter. None of the brand X V8's I have owned needed an extra qt for their filter.

                    Guess the learning never ends. Since I finally have a drivable car, I guess I have a whole new batch of things to learn about Studebakers.
                    Wayne
                    "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by wdills View Post
                      I wish it was so obvious for us new comers to the Stude world. The manual states the crankcase has a 5 qt capacity. Doesn't say anything about an extra qt for the filter. Since the stated 5 qt's matches up with every other V8 I have owned, I didn't think about needing an extra qt for the filter. None of the brand X V8's I have owned needed an extra qt for their filter.
                      I don't think the extra quart for the filter was a Studebaker thing -- the modern oil filters are much smaller than the old ones. I grew up in the "plus one for the filter" era, and went back to check the owner's manual for my 62 Impala with a 327. It takes an old-style AC PF141 drop-in canister filter. The owner's manual states oil capacity as 4 quarts, "when changing oil filter, add one quart".
                      Skip Lackie

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