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SBC Engine and trans into 2R16A

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  • #61
    Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    Re radiator shroud: Am surprised the 2R16 didn't already have a shroud. Anyway, if it turns out you need a shroud, there should be plenty of used ones around. Many Stude trucks came with two-piece shrouds, with notches for the lower radiator hose in a variety of locations.
    Yes, it had a shroud, but it is not usable on the new radiator. Not even close. Way different shapes. If I sell the original radiator, I will include the shroud.


    • #62
      I always have to wonder what all these New Aluminum Radiator Guys are thinking, always putting the Overflow Tube on the wrong side and the Drain Valve as well.
      Did GM actually do it backwards?
      Since this one is MADE for a Studebaker Truck, they COULD try to get it right!
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #63
        Answered my own question on the horn. It will not handle 12 volts. Sounded like someone was strangling a Mallard.
        Now, have to find the hot wire to the horn and make sure I step the voltage down on it along with the fuel gauge.

        One other question: I am running idiot lights for my oil pressure and temp, even though I am retaining the original mechanical gauges. Why? Well, sometimes I am an idiot, and don't always watch the gauges. This way I will be alerted by a light. Most of the aftermarket idiot lights available are LED. Not a problem for those two, but would also like to use a matching bulb for my internally regulated Alt. My understanding is that an LED will not carry enough amps to "excite" the excitor wire on the alt to make it start charging at start up. So, I either find old fashion bulbs and holders for all three lights, or can I just put a resistor in line to the LED light for the alt? If not that, how about just wiring in a regular bulb somewhere in series?

        OOPS. And another question: the original cap on my radiator was only 7 lbs. Any reason to not go with a 15 pound cap. I am using a recovery system, so the original cap won't work. New radiator came with a 15 lb. cap. You can see where I mounted the recovery tank.

        Here are some pics of the engine, fan, alt., batt box set up, giant 00 battery cable, filler panels made from the old police station parking sign. One other slight set back. The one inch spacer I got for the flex fan is about 1/4 inch too thick. Have a 3/4 on the way.

        Got the exhaust all hooked up last night. I hate exhaust work, especially laying on the floor. 1 degee here overnight. Sure am glad I have a heated garage.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Lynn; 12-18-2016, 01:35 PM.


        • #64
          Got the right spacer for the fan and all is good there.

          Getting the wiring figured out.

          I took another piecs of that sign, and made a small panel to house two toggle switches and three warning lights.
          Also made a bracket with threaded holes to mount it where the ash tray was. The old nuts from the ash tray mount were siezed pretty good on there.
          Soaked them for a bit in penetrating oil. Fortunately, I have an angel of a wife who came downstairs to hold wrenches on the nuts while I turned the screws from inside.
          With the threaded bracket on the outside, one person can remove the bracket.

          Click image for larger version

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          • #65
            It runs. Waited a couple weeks on a starter that never materialized, then remembered I had a stash of old GM starters. Traded the truck nose onto a car starter and she works great.

            Too cold to open the door to the garage tonight, so I didn't run if very long. Sounds nice though. The Studebaker mechanical oil pressure gauge works fine. No leaks. Still have to do some wiring, etc.


            • #66
              Been a while since I poste pics. Maybe over the weekend. I wired up the HEI and fuel pump through my "airplane" type panel with toggle swithches for Ign. and Fuel. At least I dont' have to worry about gas in the fuel bowl evaporating. I just turn on the fuel pump, wait for the pump to slow down a a bit; then turn on the Ign. and hit the starter. Fires up in a nanosecon

              The warning lights I bought are all LED. The alt light, as suspected, does not have enough resistance to tickle the exciter wire on the alt. Just put a resister in line (already had a resistor). Works great that way. Mechanical oil pressure gauge and temp gauge work fine. No wires going there. Haven't decided if I am going to step down votlage to everything else, or just the gas gauge and the horn. I know the horn will not work on 12 volts as I triied it. Sounds like someone is choking a mallard duck. it workes fine going throught he 12 to 6 adapgter. I could just put the adapter in line to the original ignisions switch, then everything gets 6 volts. I coudl just isoolat those two (gas gauge and horn) and run 12 volts to everything else. I will propably re-wire the whole thing, as this cloth covered wiring is in fair to poor condition anyway.

              Any thoughts on keeping the bulbs (headlights, park lights and tail light) 6 volt or 12? Don't see any reason to keep 6 volt other than I don't have to figure out which wires to go gas gauge and horn.


              • #67
                Got the grill and hood on today.

                Drove it twice yesterday. After the first drive, discoverd a massive leak at the oil pressure sending unit. Replaced the sender, and no leaks. Still, got oil all over the front of the engine. Chevy truck blocks (and all of the old Flint blocks) have a second tap for pressured oil just over the water pump. It is there for pressured oil to an air brake compressor if so equipped, but works good for a sending unit to an idiot light.

                Slight exhaust leak at LH manifold to head. It will be very easy to slip gaskets in there. RH side sealed up with no gaskets. I hooked up the Studebaker mechanical gauges (oil pressure and temp) but also used alternate locations to hook up idiot lights. If something starts going wrong, I may not have an eye in the gauge, so I wanted both.

                Runs and drives perfectly. Even the speedo works, although, I think it reads a little low. Granny gear is useless, but then it was before. Huge difference in torque. Idling at 700 rpm, 19 inches of vac. Rock solid. Running 12 degrees initial, slow curve not all in until 3400 or so (total w/o the vac is 35), and about 10 degrees of vac advance hooked to manifold. Zero pinging right now. May have to back it off a couple degrees fully loaded.

                Engine looks right at home with the air cleaner installed. I do not have the heater core hooked up yet, as I am still running the 16 lb cap that came with the new radiator. The old system was 7 psi. Looks like a very easy heater core to pull. I guess i could take it out and take it to my radiator guy to make sure it would hold at 16 psi. Any thoughts?

                Will post more pics this week. Still a few things to do. Need to fab a bracket for the park brake handle, look at wiring options, permanent hangers for exhaust (wired up right now).

                So far, I am bypassing almost all of the old cloth covered wiring and will probably rewire. Lots of bare spots on the old wiring. I kept the Studebaker floor mounted starter switch. I do have the brake light hooked up, so I can drive during the day only for now. Only two things I can think of that must be six volt are the horn and the gas gauge.

                Very pleased with the monster torque compared to the old 245. It is also nice to drive down the street without leaving a trail of smoke.
                Last edited by Lynn; 01-24-2017, 06:21 AM.


                • #68

                  Engine looks right at home in there. After all, it is the same exterior dimensions as a 283 Thunderbolt.

                  Glad to have it back together and road worthy. Don't worry, I will clean up the wiring once I get it all done. There won't be anything hanging down.
                  Attached Files


                  • #69


                    • #70
                      Drove the truck again yesterday. It is a beast. Tonight, I installed a couple of 12v headlights, and hooked up power to my original ignitions switch. I interrupted the hot wire going to the gas gauge, and ran it through a 12v to 6v converter. I also piggy backed the hot wire to the horn out of that converter. That means my horn only works with the key on, but I really don't care. My european cars are all that way, and it is no big deal to me.

                      For the first time since I have owned it, the gas gauge works. And the horn works. The ONLY things I don'thave working right now is the ammeter and the dump bed. Don't know that I need the ammeter, as I hooked up an Alt warning light that will illuminate of the alternator quits. May look at some diagrams and give it a shot hooking up the ammeter, but not any time soon. As for the dump bed, it is just a matter of finding the correct PTO. The one I had that I thought would work will not work as the gear is cut at a deeper angle than what I need.

                      Now, have to decide if I want to put A/C on this thing. Probably not, unless I change the rear out some day so I can drive on the highway. Not likely, as I have the 68 El Camino for light duty stuff. Will be able to use this for heavy short distance hauling.


                      • #71
                        I just ran into this thread, not a regular but you have done a great job. The fun is looking back and seeing all the things you had to dream up and bring to fruition. Having done a few myself I am impressed.


                        • #72
                          I was going to comment on 15 pounds into the heater core, but you already addressed that.

                          I would not run the horns on the 12-6 volt converter. Horns take a lot of current. You could isolate the ground on one of the horns and run the two of them in series.
                          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                          17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                          10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                          56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                          60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible


                          • #73
                            Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                            I was going to comment on 15 pounds into the heater core, but you already addressed that.

                            I would not run the horns on the 12-6 volt converter. Horns take a lot of current. You could isolate the ground on one of the horns and run the two of them in series.
                            Mine only has one horn. I don't plan to lay on it often anyway. So, limited ues, and half the current of two horns, I think I am fine.

                            I am going to pull the heater core and have my radiator guy go through it. I have it bypassed right now. It's pushing 80 degrees here this week, so may wait until late summer early fall to address that.

                            Roy: from your comment, I am guessing you would not try 15 psi to the heater core?

                            I can look for a 7 lb cap.

                            On another note, I did not have to put gaskets in the left side exhaust manifold. I had never tightened the bolts! Doh!


                            • #74
                              soooooooo Where's the YouTube drive report? LOL


                              • #75
                                Don't know about YouTube. Maybe one of the kids will make a short and post it.