Clutch linkage
This is difficult to explain, even with pictures. Hard to explain what was (no “before” pics) and what I ended up with.
I have all the clutch linkage worked out. I re-used the original operating shaft assembly, albeit cut into pieces. I really like the Studebaker operating shaft / release shaft set up. There was just no way to use it on this Chevy bell housing. There was a shaft operated clutch bell housing used back in the 70’s or 80’s by Chevrolet and GMC, but the ones I found for sale were very expensive. McLeod sells one for racers, but even more expensive. And, the chance that I could have gotten everything to line up was slim at best. So, built a two bell crank solution that hopefully works well.
The original shaft and bushings were in great shape. No discernable wear on the part of the shaft that goes to a bushing on the frame. Cleaned it up and lubed it. I cut the end of the shaft off, and welded it to a 9/16 bolt that threads in to the Chevy bell housing where the bell crank stud was originally (on the Chevy). That way I get the exact same location for my engine side bell crank. I cut down the Chevy bell crank assembly. It is exactly on inch inside diameter on the engine side. I placed two bronze bushings in it with one inch OD and ¾ inch ID. The Stud operating shaft is ¾ inch so it is a tight fit with no slop. The end of the shaft already had a hole in it, so a ¾ inch washer and cotter key keeps everything in place.
For the engine mounted bell crank, I cut a 1.25 inch hole in a bracket, and welded it to the tube and the other bracket (probably overkill, but I am using a massive 13 inch clutch, so this bracket will take a lot of force). Her are pics of the bell crank stud and the engine side bell crank. I drilled extra holes in case my geometry is off a bit, and I need more travel or more leverage.
Back to the frame mounted bell crank. As stated, the shaft is exactly ¾ inch. I drilled a ¾ inch hole in a ¼ thick piece of steel to weld on the end (after cutting off part of the shaft). I used another ¾ bronze bushing mounted in another ¼ inch pieces of steel with a one inch hole and used a ¾ inch collar to space it to where I wanted. The mounting steel is bolted to the MC/Clutch stabilizing bracket to keep everything in place.
Here it is in place on the frame. All lubed up and ready to go. Also, a pic of the area where it mounts (with nothing there). Again, multiple holes so I can correct any geometry issues. Hardest part was getting the return spring hooked on the other side of my home made cross member mount. Everything is tight here, because the new bell housing dwarf’s the old one (going from a 10.75 inch clutch to a 13 inch clutch).
And here we are with it all hooked up. The “hanging” heim joint will support the rod that goes to the clutch release fork. It is in the exact same position it was in when this engine / trans was in the Chevy, so I know it lines up. I built an adjustable rod using DOM tubing, 5/8 od and 3/8 id with nuts welded to each end.
This is difficult to explain, even with pictures. Hard to explain what was (no “before” pics) and what I ended up with.
I have all the clutch linkage worked out. I re-used the original operating shaft assembly, albeit cut into pieces. I really like the Studebaker operating shaft / release shaft set up. There was just no way to use it on this Chevy bell housing. There was a shaft operated clutch bell housing used back in the 70’s or 80’s by Chevrolet and GMC, but the ones I found for sale were very expensive. McLeod sells one for racers, but even more expensive. And, the chance that I could have gotten everything to line up was slim at best. So, built a two bell crank solution that hopefully works well.
The original shaft and bushings were in great shape. No discernable wear on the part of the shaft that goes to a bushing on the frame. Cleaned it up and lubed it. I cut the end of the shaft off, and welded it to a 9/16 bolt that threads in to the Chevy bell housing where the bell crank stud was originally (on the Chevy). That way I get the exact same location for my engine side bell crank. I cut down the Chevy bell crank assembly. It is exactly on inch inside diameter on the engine side. I placed two bronze bushings in it with one inch OD and ¾ inch ID. The Stud operating shaft is ¾ inch so it is a tight fit with no slop. The end of the shaft already had a hole in it, so a ¾ inch washer and cotter key keeps everything in place.
For the engine mounted bell crank, I cut a 1.25 inch hole in a bracket, and welded it to the tube and the other bracket (probably overkill, but I am using a massive 13 inch clutch, so this bracket will take a lot of force). Her are pics of the bell crank stud and the engine side bell crank. I drilled extra holes in case my geometry is off a bit, and I need more travel or more leverage.
Back to the frame mounted bell crank. As stated, the shaft is exactly ¾ inch. I drilled a ¾ inch hole in a ¼ thick piece of steel to weld on the end (after cutting off part of the shaft). I used another ¾ bronze bushing mounted in another ¼ inch pieces of steel with a one inch hole and used a ¾ inch collar to space it to where I wanted. The mounting steel is bolted to the MC/Clutch stabilizing bracket to keep everything in place.
Here it is in place on the frame. All lubed up and ready to go. Also, a pic of the area where it mounts (with nothing there). Again, multiple holes so I can correct any geometry issues. Hardest part was getting the return spring hooked on the other side of my home made cross member mount. Everything is tight here, because the new bell housing dwarf’s the old one (going from a 10.75 inch clutch to a 13 inch clutch).
And here we are with it all hooked up. The “hanging” heim joint will support the rod that goes to the clutch release fork. It is in the exact same position it was in when this engine / trans was in the Chevy, so I know it lines up. I built an adjustable rod using DOM tubing, 5/8 od and 3/8 id with nuts welded to each end.
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