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SBC Engine and trans into 2R16A

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  • Engine: SBC Engine and trans into 2R16A

    Guess I will start a build thread on this. Not much to contribute on my first post.

    With apologies to Ron and the other Purists, for a variety of reasons I am installing 350 Chevy engine and NP 542L in my 49 2R16A.

    Will post some pics of the progress. Going slow right now. Using the cross member out of the 2 ton (C50) Chevy truck that I pirated everything else from. Will either use the front cross member from the Chevy truck or fab one. That way I can use the giant front truck motor mount assembly. See attached pic.

    Very stable. I am removing the "K" type member from the front of the Studebaker. Man, those rivets are a bitch to get out. I grind the heads off and STILL cannot knock them out without center drilling them.

    Considering options for clutch linkage. I REALLY like the factory pivot rod going through the bell housing. I am taking car to have the crank centerline of the Chevy exactly where it was with the flat head six. Got to thinking; maybe I can modify the truck bell housing (cast iron) to accept that pivot rod and use the factory linkage. Seems it would be much cleaner than fabbing up bell crank linkage for the Chevy "Z" bar type linkage. Just have to see where the factory stuff lines up when I get this all mocked up.

    Anyone ever modify another bell housing to accept the pivot type linkage?Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Does your 350 have the holes for the fore and after motor mount system?


    • #3
      Why? Are you going to use a Borg and Beck clutch and the Stude tranny? Other wise I would go hydraulic, much less problems. And I think removing that K member is silly. The 350 Chev almost fits right on it.


      • #4
        Q: Does your 350 have the holes for the fore and after motor mount system?

        A: Yes. Engine and trans is from a large Chevy truck that uses four motor mounts, two on front of the engine and two on the bell housing.


        • #5
          Q: Why? Are you going to use a Borg and Beck clutch and the Stude tranny? Other wise I would go hydraulic, much less problems. And I think removing that K member is silly. The 350 Chev almost fits right on it.

          A: Using the trans and shifter (5 speed with synchros) out of the Chevy grain truck. The fore and aft mount system is way stronger than using side motor mounts. This engine will have more than double the torque of the old 6.
          Yes, I have the engine sitting right on the K member right now. I could rig up some mounts and make it work, but I would have to raise it up a bit. Then I have issues with the crank centerline being out of whack. I like where is it sitting right now, but the existing K member isn't near as heavy duty as the Chevy cross member. And the shifter is in the exact same position as my old one.

          I can't use hydraulic clutch set up unless I go with a different bell housing. I already have this one. I am using the 13 inch clutch set up (yes it is a borg and beck style) out of the Chevy. Still one place her in the OKC area that rebuilds clutches. If I am unable to modify this bell housing for the pivot rod set up, I am sure I will be able to fab a bell crank system for the clutch. I got all the extra parts from the Chevy grain truck.


          • #6
            O.K. I see that you want to use all those parts you have and all heavy duty. You should be able to find truck parts around OK City, I would still go with a hydraulic set up. I have a 800HP, 355 in my 63T Cab. and it is on a 4 mount system.


            • #7
              Looks like your little "Reference only" I guess, drawing is an Automatic Trans. so NO Pivot Type Linkage.
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner


              • #8
                You are correct Rich. I printed that out to take to the local GM truck dealer to show what the motor mounts look like.


                • #9
                  OK, decided Alan was correct when he said removing the K member is silly. I did not realize how far back into the frame rails those pieces went. Did I mention this thing is really covered in greasy mud? Probably would have done myself a favor to roll it out and clean it good, but getting this thing in and out of the garage is no easy task. So, I have just been hand scraping areas I need to work on. Besides, I am convinced that is one reason there is no rust on this frame.

                  I believe I am going to marry the K member to a home made front cross member for my truck mounts.

                  Got the rear Chevy cross member in place over the weekend. I did take some pics and will try to post an update when I get a chance.

                  I mounted the rear member 1/2 inch offset to the passenger side, just to give myself a little extra clearance around the steering box. The front will also be 1/2 inch off set to the passenger side.
                  Used mainly scrap iron that I had laying around to box in the frame rails where the cross member attaches. Had to get creative on the driver's side so as to not interfere with the brake set up. Still using the old master cylinder.

                  Crank center line is about 1.5 inches lower than the old 6 was, but should be about the same angle vs. the chassis. I looked through the shop manual, and cannot find any info on the engine angle. I know Chevrolet is always 4 degrees. Anyone know what Studebaker used for engine angle?


                  • #10
                    I do not know what the big truck is exactly, but my 8E5, 8E7 and 53K's are 6 degrees.


                    • #11
                      Well, I have absolute proof that I am a moron. Had this thing all mocked up and measured. I need the back of the bell housing to be 4.25 inches from a tape reference on the floor in order for the shifter to come up in EXACT same location as the old one. Measured several times, but apparently did not measure one last time before drilling all the holes in my home made bracketry for the rear cross member. All bolted together and I am mocking up the engine again. Passenger side valve cover barely hits the firewall. Hmmm. Maybe I will just ding the firewall. HEI distributor won't go in. Too close to the fire wall. Pull out an old points distributor, and it fits, but only about 1/4 inch clearance. I had the HEI in there last week. Go measure my reference and it is 3.75 inches. Somehow the whole thing moved back 1/2 inch.

                      So, this weekend I will be pulling the motor back out, re-drilling and re-fitting. I needed to pull all the brackets anyway, as I want to spot weld the nuts on the back sides, so it will be easier to bolt up.

                      I did find a way to avoid the steering box with the driver's side exhaust manifold. I am using a passenger side log type (instead of the ram horn style) and putting it on backwards so it empties out the front. Lots of room up there.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Alan View Post
                        I do not know what the big truck is exactly, but my 8E5, 8E7 and 53K's are 6 degrees.
                        How did you end up with tilted Engines in Trucks Alan?
                        All of mine have have Level Engines, hence the Carbs sitting tilted about 6 Degrees FORWARD because of the Car Intakes that Studebaker never changed.
                        Second Generation Stude Driver,
                        Proud '54 Starliner Owner


                        • #13
                          Rich, When I drop the engines in them I level out the carb pad by the rear mounts that I make out of urethane bar stock.



                          • #14
                            Have at it Lynn. Looking forward to your build photos. I don't know what I'm doing so I have to spend all my time thinking about what I'm doing or might be doing and stopping to take pics is just one more step I don't feel I have the energy to take.


                            • #15
                              The engine angle doesn't matter that much?? Chevys usually have 2-3 degrees down in the rear (for oil flow to the oil "pick up"). The only concern you might have is ....if you change the engine (drive line) angle, you'll need to compensate by correcting the rear end pinion angle. The pinion angle can be easily corrected with angle shims available on ebay. If there are obstructions that keep you from getting the exact "old" stude engine angle don't worry about it because you can be easily fixed it with shims under the rear axle. One big concern is the carb base angle. If the intake to carb surface is not level it will make carb float level adjustments a little more difficult. I would concentrate on the carb to intake surface angle (level) and compensate for everything else with rear axle shims. But that's just me!!