Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1959 lark what fluids to use? Oil, trans, rear diff......

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Other: 1959 lark what fluids to use? Oil, trans, rear diff......

    Going through all the mechanicals on my car at the moment and working on changing all the fluids. I have a 1959 lark with the 259 v8 and automatic transmission. I heard dexron-Mercon trans fluid for smoother shifts or type f fluid for harder/more solid shifts in the transmission?

    Looking for opinions on what people have had luck with in their own cars.

    What is recommended for motor oil?

    Transmission fluid?

    Rear diff fluid?

    Brake fluid?

  • #2
    Dexron 3 or type F fluid is useable in the trans, I've used both with good results. The differential needs a GL5 rated gear lube. SAE 80W-90 conventional or 75W-90 synthetic oil is what I use and DOT3 fluid for the brake system. Bud

    Comment


    • #3
      I've been using the following for the same version:

      Engine oil: WalMart 20W-50, mixed 50/50 with WalMart 10W-40 so it's 15W-45????
      Transmission Oil: O'Reilly Type F (The type F really does make "harsher" shifts)
      Brake Fluid: O'Reilly DOT 3
      Rear Diff Fluid: Royal Purple 75W-90 synthetic (I will go back to dino oil 85W-90 after the rebuild)
      Tire air: I use the standard air, compressed to 241316.5 Pascal, non-dehumidified, 15%-21% O2
      Windshield Washer fluid: The Amighty's Sky Tears (with the help of Rain-X)
      Wheel bearing grease: Lucas Oil Red-N-Tacky #2
      U-Joint grease, tie-rods, steering pivot: Lucas Oil Red-N-Tacky #2
      Steering gear: Don't know. I think it all leaked out and I have not replaced it.
      Generator and Distributor Lube: 10W-30 Quaker State. @ drops at every other oil change or whenever I think about it.
      Antifreeze: Green Prestone and DISTILLED water
      Blinker Fluid: Synthetic KaleCo Auto
      Carburetor Chain oil: Royal Purple MaxFilm Multipurpose
      Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
      1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

      Comment


      • #4
        BILT4ME, and no muffler bearing Lube?? Keeps it de-rusted --no?

        Comment


        • #5
          63avanti and others,
          My previous query re the manual steering box was answered by a suggestion of Lucas Chain oil. I filled my box (40 years of sitting it looked pretty dry) and although a slow process, appeared to fill the the crevasses around the gears well. First test drive is still a little ways away but it looks like a better suggestion than any grease type product due to it's thorough coating of the gears.
          Cheers, Bill

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by karterfred88 View Post
            BILT4ME, and no muffler bearing Lube?? Keeps it de-rusted --no?
            Oh MAN!!!! I KNEW I forgot SOMETHING! Maybe THAT"S why my keeps stalling on the highway?!?!?!?!?!?

            What do you recommend? Do I use synthetic or dino or vegetable?
            Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
            1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

            Comment


            • #7
              Didn't we ever get a "Sticky" for this yet? There are literally hundreds of posts about this, as it comes up about every 2 weeks it seems.

              If you eliminate all the personal "Brand" preferences, it almost boils down to what is missing here on this post, THE most important thing you MUST do, that is Buy the correct SAE GL rating:

              Manual Transmission: GL-1 Mineral Oil, NO combinations of GL-4,5, or GL-4 or GL-5

              Differential: GL-5, and on initial fill with Twin Traction, a 4 OZ Bottle of Limited Slip, Friction Modifier.

              The Engine Oil and Automatic Trans. Fluid is shall we say "more controversial"? I am not going there.

              And for the Brake Fluid:
              The DOT 3 works OK, but the New DOT 4 is compatible with 3, even though better to change it all of course, but the 4 withstands slightly higher Temperature and absorbs a little less Water, but it is still Hydroscopic.

              Most of us that have tried DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid would never go back, because of the MUCH Higher Boiling Point and the resistance to water, so no more rust or Hydraulic System replacement, repair or maintenance is required (26 years on several of mine) but it must be done with a 100% CLEAN system, so is best to do when replacing all the components.
              Last edited by StudeRich; 08-09-2016, 12:01 PM.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by BILT4ME View Post
                Oh MAN!!!! I KNEW I forgot SOMETHING! Maybe THAT"S why my keeps stalling on the highway?!?!?!?!?!?

                What do you recommend? Do I use synthetic or dino or vegetable?
                Since the cup seals are so poor I use Vaseline, petroleum jelly, sticks better.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by karterfred88 View Post
                  Since the cup seals are so poor I use Vaseline, petroleum jelly, sticks better.
                  Do I put the Vaseline on it BEFORE I insert the shaft? I have heard of applying it after insertion, but it may not be as effective. I understand the Vaseline will allow for a tighter tolerance. I understand the cup seals are on the front? And the shaft seal is in the back?

                  I can see the petroleum jelly possibly causing a contamination issue. Would it be better to use a water-based lubricant?
                  Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                  1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    BILT4ME,
                    Seeing as you are definitely in love with your car, may I suggest a personal lubricant?

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X