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insulation/weather seal(s) between door and interior panel

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  • Jerry Forrester
    replied
    Here's Frosty's door before the panel went on,



    Here's Leo's



    Before any of the insulation went on, ALL the holes in the doors were sealed with metal duct tape. The same that holds the insulation on.
    Last edited by Jerry Forrester; 07-30-2018, 05:16 PM.

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  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    Studebaker only used a bit of flimsy tarpaper. There is this really neat stuff you can buy at Menard's and probably most lumber yards. It has closed air cells between silver mylar. It is made to go between the rafters and the steel panels on steel roofed sheds and barns It insulates, quiets, and keeps condensation from forming on the steel. It is only an eighth of an inch thick or so. I've started using this between the door panel and the door. Makes a considerable difference. Even makes doors close with a more solid sound.

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  • jclary
    replied
    As some of you guys have already commented, I'm in 100% agreement that anything you can add to improve insulation, sound deadening, and moisture resistance, is a good thing. As I have posted before, these cars (Studebaker and others) were built as economically, as possible, with profit as the main goal. They were built and shoved off the assembly line as fast as the line speed would allow. Those "access" holes in the interior sheet metal panels of the doors leave much to be desired when having to contort your fingers, hands, and arms to service window mechanisms. The stuff, from the factory, used to cover them seems to be a form of early duct tape material. A cheap, marginal, protection of questionable duration. Anything you come up with to seal these areas better, is a great idea.

    My opinion is that, for moisture, the best thing you can do is to keep the drain slots/holes clean so that water can escape. Even garaged cars of this era, often have damage to the upholstered cardboard panels (warped, distorted) from the cycles of getting wet, and drying out, over the years.

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  • rockne10
    replied
    Jeff,
    As Warren indicated, the screw heads each had a small wad of dumdum under them; only the open access holes themselves had any covers, usually a piece of panel board.
    Warren's suggestion to add a sheet of plastic is well worth it.
    On my own projects I have used an insulating sheet that is usually reserved for shipping modern bumper covers and such. This is routinely found in the dumpsters at most body shops, or could be purchased by FASO's (frugal-assed Studebaker owners). It's a closed cell foam, thin enough to fit between the door shell and trim panel, while also serving as a moisture, sound and heat insulator. It can be tacked to the door shell with a little dumdum, or to the trim panel with a little 3M spray adhesive. I would do this in addition to sealing the access holes. For those I simply used duct tape.

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by rockne10; 08-06-2016, 03:06 PM.

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  • Warren Webb
    replied
    There should be (or was at one time) a goo type of sealer under all the bolts holding the window regulator & such on the inner panel. It wouldn't hurt to cover the entire inner door with a thick plastic sheeting afterwards. The cover that Studebaker used had the lower horizontal section tucked inside the door so if any moisture reached it there it was directed inside & away from the cardboard door trim panel.

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  • doug
    replied
    That is all I have ever seen in there.

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  • insulation/weather seal(s) between door and interior panel

    Did Studebaker do anything more than cover only the access holes with paper/tar paper (or whatever the material might be) in the door before they installed in interior panel. I've got all the small parts to install my interior panels but I wonder if there a full interior panel insulator to prevent water from damaging the panel from the inside.

    thanks

    Jeff T.
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