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Stuck temp sender

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  • #16
    Originally posted by 3rdGenStude View Post
    Physically, it was a little longer than the old one, but I figure SI would supply the right one.
    You are a very trusting individual . Even the experts can have off days however, so you may want to verify that you did receive the correct sender.

    Anyway, you mentioned that this is a '62 GT (or at least, a car with a '62 GT dash). Make sure you have a good ground to the instrument cluster metal enclosures on the back side of the gauges. Sometimes if you don't have a good ground, the temp sender wire will act as the ground thru the sender and throw the gauge off. This normally happens when the dash lights are on, but still good to check. I know this from experience.........thought I had an overheating problem the night I purchased my '64 GT. Finally determined it only happened when the dash lights were on; long story short, I added ground wires to the metal gauge 'boxes' on the back of the dash and that problem went away.

    Like I said, this may very well not be your problem, but just brainstorming for possibilities.
    Winston-Salem, NC
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    • #17
      Originally posted by 3rdGenStude View Post
      OK on the thermostat. Saves me some time then anyway.

      I got the new sender from SI. Physically, it was a little longer than the old one, but I figure SI would supply the right one. Rock Auto listed a Standard and an Airtex for less than half of what SI charges for the sender, but I thought I'd play it safe.

      If I put the ign. switch in ACC position, the temp gauge doesn't move if the engine is cool. When I took it out for a drive yesterday it warmed up gradually, hung around 180 for a little while, and then moved up to 240+. This is the same behavior I had with the old sender, too.

      My bet is the new sender, but since you say it is identical behavior, to before replacement, I would double check the wire from the gauge to the sender ( get a roll of wire, attach to post on gauge and run directly to sender) bypassing the wire loom completely and as mentioned, add a ground to the gauge case . It is "possible" the bimetallic movement in the gage warps after being warmed for awhile. You could check that by using a multimeter, sending measured voltage through the gauge ( isolated from the wiring loom) till it shows 180 and let it sit for awhile to see if it spikes after awhile if it does, gauge bad, if not has to be sender side of circuit.


      • #18
        It is also possible that you have an air pocket in the back of the head that is not working it's way out. Once it hits high temp, there is a steam pocket there. Run the front of the car up on jack stands and bring it up to temp with the radiator cap off to help bleed out any air.

        I installed a mechanical gauge in my Lark and when I'm driving around, it is reading about 190. When I sit in stopped traffic in really hot weather it starts to climb. When it hits 245, the car dies due to vapor lock. It then has to cool back to 215 before it will restart.

        When I had recently pulled my engine, I so much sand and sludge in the block that the back two cylinders did not cool. I did not have the mechanical gauge in there, so I have no comparison, but there was "mud" around the back half of the cylinder inside the block on both rear cylinders.
        Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
        1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP