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'61 Lark VIII wagon clutch operating shaft question

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  • christophe
    replied
    I think you should also check the verticular alignment of the gearbox in regard of the frame operating shaft support. The shaft should be horizontal. If the rubber cushion located under the gearbox is a little bit tired, this could be a problem when trying to achieve a proper adjustement.

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  • voxnut
    replied
    Thanks Fred - me too!

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  • karterfred88
    replied
    Originally posted by voxnut View Post
    Ah, yes! I am talking about the external cross shaft and lever assembly. I've read that at times the brazed joint that holds the T/O bearing carrier on the shaft can break, but it seems to be less common than the lever walking on the external operating shaft. I'm hoping this does the trick.
    I hope you are right, but the majority of the "not enough clutch travel after repeated adjusting" problems, is the levers pushing the TO bearing, moving (swiveling) on the shaft inside the bell housing--they are not "brazed" to the shaft simply pressed on and staked. That is the most common after replacing the rods and clevises with heavier ones and it won't stay adjusted. A cracked coupler may be the cause-I hope for you.

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  • voxnut
    replied
    Ah, yes! I am talking about the external cross shaft and lever assembly. I've read that at times the brazed joint that holds the T/O bearing carrier on the shaft can break, but it seems to be less common than the lever walking on the external operating shaft. I'm hoping this does the trick.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Dean you and Fred are talking about TWO different Shafts!

    He is talking about the INTERNAL throughout Bearing Release Shaft INSIDE the Clutch Housing, which I think is more likely your problem if you see no movement marks on your External Cross Shaft and Lever Assy.

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  • jackb
    replied
    different shaft discussion

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  • voxnut
    replied
    Thanks guys! Fred, I nearly had the shaft out last night to replace the coupler. Two mounting bolts for the shaft support on the frame side removed, and I could drop the shaft down and away. If I'd disconnected the linkage to the hill holder it seemed like I could easily have completely removed the shaft. Am I missing something?

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  • karterfred88
    replied
    Looking at the one I have sitting in my "some day to be" 5 speed conversion bell housing, it appears the TO contact on the arms are visually "almost"exactly perpendicular or perhaps just a touch further forward towards the bearing, compared to the hole in the shaft for the extension/release arm. You do realize that the entire bell housing needs to be removed to take the shaft out. Perhaps you can estimate how much rotation has occurred before removal by trying to see how far off the hole is from parallel to the ground. You may get lucky, with the linkage removed and using the extension arm and a very big pipe wrench to force them close to back into position by rotating the shaft in reverse using the trans retainer to stop the arms and forcing it back close to correct before disassembly. Looking at the shaft and arms I can't see any markings used to line them up during the original press assembly. Maybe others that have done this can show exact locations or have a drawing to guide you. If you can get a new one at the right price and weld it up before installing it that would be the best.

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  • dpson
    replied
    Dean,

    I have 1546329 NOS available at $25 each plus shipping.

    Also in my parts list notes is indicates it is a substitute for part number 537107, so that may be why it shown by SI as fitting earlier models.

    Send a PM if it's something you are interested in.

    Leave a comment:


  • voxnut
    replied
    Thanks Christope! If going back into 1st at a stop was the only issue, then I'd say you are spot on. But it graunches in all shifts - 1-2, 2-3 and downshifting from 3-2. That I could adjust the clutch and have it work great for a short time is what leads me to believe it's a problem with the clutch operating shaft, since I've eliminated the coupler and clevises. Thanks for taking the time to repsond!

    Dean

    Leave a comment:


  • christophe
    replied
    As the first gear is not synchronised, this is not uncommon, especially if your idle speed is on the fast side. In this case, try to engage the second gear first. The synchromesh will then stop the gears. Then, quickly engage first gear. Using this technique usually makes it as slick as oil on a blister, unless something else is faulty of course. I would try this before anything else.
    Best of luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • '61 Lark VIII wagon clutch operating shaft question

    Hi All,

    I was working on the wagon yesterday checking off the laundry list of small tasks to make her run better and got to the clutch linkage. According to the receipts, the new clutch only has 2K miles on it, but it still wants to graunch when shifting and going back to 1st at a stop. I had adjusted the linkage once and it worked well for a very short amount of time. So I was hoping the coupler was cracked or the clevises were worn and/or broken. No such luck. they looked fine.

    So I'm figuring that the arm on the clutch operating shaft has walked out of position, which in doing research seems to be a not uncommon problem.

    I figure I can remove the shaft from the car, clean it up, put the arm back into position and then weld it. The only problem is, I don't have a reference for the original location of the arm in order to put it back into position. Would anyone here have some good photos I can use for a reference? I'm guessing I would key the position of the arm relative to the clevis hole for the coupler.

    Barring that, would anyone have a good shaft for sale? I do have a call into SI to see if they have a new one. The only thing is, my 59-61 chassis catalog lists the part as P/N 1546329, and when I put that number in, it brings up a shaft for 1950's Studebakers, and when I see a visual reference it doesn't look quite the same as the one in my car. Does anyone know if Studebaker recycled parts numbers?

    Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

    Best,
    Dean
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