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Puking coolant

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  • Cool/Heat: Puking coolant

    I have a pesky coolant issue. After running/driving car for about 20 mins and shutting it off I get 5-6 ounces comes out from overflow. I do not have a catch container since about the size of a lab test tube is all there is for room.. EVERYTHING under the hood of my shovel nose is new. 350 Chevy engine. Have a tri-flow radiator from Eastwood, running Evans coolant, 185 thermostat, radiator fan works. My theory was there was air in the system but after purging and refilling same thing happens. My upper rad. hose is much higher then the radiator itself to fit everything under the hood dealing with design of the car. Temps when car is hot are all normal and check out with thermal gun.
    Was told by my neighbor gear head that since under the hood is still new (under 200 miles driven) maybe the coolant needs to "set itself" and the puking out of coolant will slow down or stop. Can't say if I agree with him. Need opinions on how to proceed.

  • #2
    On an 'open' cooling system, that would be normal.
    Some expansion when heating will push out some coolant.
    Since it is an open system, when it cools off it will draw air in through the cap.

    Now, if it were a 'closed' cooling system, the radiator cap would be a tad different.
    Then, when it pushed that bit of coolant out, it would be capured by the overflow tank.
    And when it cools it will draw coolant back from the overflow tank back into the radiator.

    A 'puke tank' is just a catch can for an 'open' system.

    If your ride does not overheat....Leave it alone.
    Once it burps out the amount it needs for expansion... It will be ok.
    Topping ot off all the time just makes the coolant companies happy.
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain

    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)


    • #3
      My 62 Lark Turbo car has space problems also. rad catch tank is mounted behind L/headlight inside front can watch coolant moving back and forth through recovery hose. adding heater hose "T" for flushing and making hose long enough so it can be raised above top hose makes handy place to burp system. rad , a dodge truck HD unit, likes to run 3/4 full,no more. jeff has good explain, well thought out,to the point. Luck Doofus


      • #4
        There is some good information about ethylene glycol on the net. Ethylene glycol has about 3/4 the heat transfer capacity of water, Evans coolant product is mostly ethylene glycol therefore you are getting only 3/4 of the heat transfer that water would give you. In the text it says not to use less than 50 x 50 mix with water. Ethylene glycol can be used if the capacity is substantially increased, however in a Studebaker there is no room for that. I would drain the Evans and use a 50 x 50 mix of water and conventional antifreeze and I think you will find success. David


        • #5
          And leave one inch of air beneath the filler for expansion. otherwise the coolant in that space will leave as it expands.


          • #6
            Every "fluid" expands when hot, if there is no place to expand "to" it finds the easiest escape route, your overflow. If you want a closed system, you need a two way rad cap, a coolant "overflow bottle" for the expansion, and to let it return by vacuum when it cools off. Without the fluid moving in the system other than by convection through the radiator, the hot spots in the heads continue to heat the fluid expanding it above normal. On a system without an overflow "storage" it goes on the ground, when it cools it leaves a void in the radiator, tank or hose. If you remove the cap and refill it, it will be forced out when it expands again, repeating the cycle. Let it overflow. leave it, drive it, as long as your temps are ok leave it, the system has made its "expansion tank" by leaving a space it needs. If however it continues to puke after that, you have a system problem, which is easily fixed by adding 50% water to your "Evans" coolant so the heat transfer rate returns to normal, which then makes normal antifreeze and you'll need to change it in 3 years.
            Last edited by karterfred88; 07-07-2016, 01:28 PM.


            • #7
              Are you using the "Special" Low Pressure Evans Radiator Cap?

              Have you plugged the Bleed Port in the Water Manifold below the Thermostat per Evans instructions.

              Have you boiled ALL the Water out the system per their Instructions?
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner


              • #8
                Thanks all for replying. Will take all suggestions into account. I'm sure I'll figure it out but I thought I'd get imput from the Stude peeps.


                • #9
                  If your 350 V8's temperature runs as it should once warmed up I would suggest a simple solution. I believe someone else mentioned this. If the coolant keeps purging out of the radiator after shut down simply remove some of the coolant in your system and try that each drive until it stops. Since it runs at normal temperature when warmed up you can afford to back off on the level of coolant in your radiator with little or no effect on cooling. Good luck!