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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Bellhousing dialling

    I have taken the opportunity to check the register between the crank and the Bellhousing for my Flightomatic trans. I had assumed I had the original Bellhousing buttoned on, but was pretty dismayed when I recorded just under 22 thou of runout (exactly 12 o'clock to 6 o 'clock). Geeze, I must have cleaned up and painted one of my spare ones all those years ago- how silly, oh well better find the other one, I was pretty sure I had the original up there.....
    I found another one- with remnant silver paint on it too (its for a '61 Hawk) but I was again surprised to find close to twenty thou runout on this one as well (11 o'clock to 5 o'clock).
    Am I kidding myself or did I expect far too much accuracy here ? What is the consensus out there ? BTW can anybody give me the maximum accepted runout, because I haven't spotted it in the shop manual. I will be making up some stepped dowels to fix this problem. Just in case anybody is wondering, the Flexplate on this trans came out of it with no damage, so what gives with this runout?
    Steve

  • #2
    .004 register total run out, .006 total face run out. per the Avanti shop manual. BTDT and Good Luck, fixing this can cause loss of hair and Religion,Doofus

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    • #3
      Mike Myer gave a seminar at the Warwick International Meet last week, during which he dial-indicated a bellhousing to a V8 block.

      He agreed with the factory specifications (.004-.006) but said he has seen runout as high as .010 with no seemingly ill effects. I'd agree that ought to be as far as one dared to go, especially on an automatic transmission car where the flex plate takes the brunt of any excessive runout. BP
      We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

      Ayn Rand:
      "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

      G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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      • #4
        According to the experts, the runout should be between 4 and 6 thou.

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        • #5
          Steve;
          Do what Mike did at the Warwick show. Pull the existing dowel pins. Bolt the bell housing on with 3 or four bolts. Tap the bell housing with a lead, brass or rubber hammer until you get the correct reading. Tighten the bolts up. Recheck your readings. Drill 1/4 inch holes above the existing dowel pin holes and install 1/4 inch roll pins. Mike said there is plenty of meat above the original pin holes.
          Ron

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          • #6
            Hi all, thanks for the advice. I will be machining a pair of offset dowels to eliminate the runout or reduce it to under .004" .
            Not having access to specialised setting tools, I plan on dial indicating the nose of the torque converter to getting it to run true in the front pump bearing. Still finding myself bemused at the lousy runout, but I have to wonder whether that might be a consequence of CKD'ing studebakers to Australia- maybe it was set lousy here and not at the factory in the US. I'm absolutely convinced that this car was unmolested when I received it.
            Steve

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            • #7
              I gotta say something- Clocking the bell housing runout at less than .001" on first attempt!
              Time to leave well enough alone.....
              Steve

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Steve Winzar View Post
                I gotta say something- Clocking the bell housing runout at less than .001" on first attempt!
                Time to leave well enough alone.....
                Steve
                Daaang Steve, maybe we oughta send all our blocks and bell housings out to you? ? ?
                But I've always kept mine at max of .010" and never had a problem. I've been lucky a few times to make a lucky hammer strike to get it in at .005 or .004, but sheesh... .001 is incredible.
                sals54

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                • #9
                  I reckon the neighbours might object to all the blocks and bells lined up. I thought that this job was going to be the tough one but I lucked-out. NOW I have a bigger issue in that the torque converter and flywheel are running WAAAAY out. Given the pilot stub of the Flywheel and crankshaft bushing are locating the whole shebang, I'm wondering what to do next. This thing is running out over forty thou.

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                  • #10
                    Steve,gotta wonder how you are checking run out now. maybe a "Dummy" front pump would help center that TC now the bell housing is spot on? Cant call you a "Shade Tree" any more LOL. Luck Doofus

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                    • #11
                      Thanks Doofus- I have an engineering trade background, so its familiar territory for me. I'm hanging a magnetic base and dial indicator off the end of the block and the indicator registers runout on the Torque Converter nose. Given that the flywheel pilot stub is engaged neatly in the bronze bush at the end of the crankshaft, it appears that the the TC was welded onto the flywheel way out of center- so merely thumping it with a mallet is ineffectual.The only cure for this is another unit or get this one recoed, centered up and rebalanced.
                      Steve

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                      • #12
                        Just have to ask. How many miles do you think that Flightomatic has been driven with those wrong offsets? Maybe 100,000 or so?? Guess it really wasn't that important after all! Bet that torque converter was welded up poorly- but it worked anyway. I think we are trying to perfect things that never were.

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                        • #13
                          Just gotta do the best job you can in all things,it will pay off,,,,,eventually. take it from a dyed in the wool "Shade Tree"mechanic,not a "Technician". Doofus

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                          • #14
                            This car would likely have done 160,000 miles- based on what the odometer reading when I first obtained the car (and the engine wear on disassembly). That, plus what I think is 'Victorian Western Districts' yellow dust all under the vehicle and trans, lead me to think it is totally unchanged since new. Every thought I have about this runout screams "don't re assemble it as-is". I think I have another TC buried amongst my spares and if so, will give it another go for comparisons sake. I wonder if I've managed to install the wrong one? If I've managed to perfect the bellhousing runout, and recoed the transmission, it seems seems a pity to to reinstall this TC in it's known condition.
                            Steve

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                            • #15
                              After checking out another TC I'm ready to bite the bullet. Neither dial up anywhere within a bulls roar so I'm going to hold my breath and accept it as the norm. It all comes down to the spigot bearing centering the whole flywheel. I can't see the front pump seal lasting at all well.
                              Steve

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